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Day 6, my last full day before the long journey south tomorrow. I’d had 5 absolutely stunning days in a row, so what are the chances of a 6th? If you are like me and believe that a pessimist is simply an optimist with experience, you will just know that in Scotland every consecutive sunny day makes it more be likely it will be persisting down tomorrow.
When I wake at 5am I listen for the tell-tale signs. I can hear the leaves rustling in the breeze, but no pounding rain on the outside of the tent. So far, so good. I take a peak outside – not a cloud in the sky. I just cannot believe my luck!
Half an hour later I’m off along the northern shore of Loch Torridon
I’m heading for a rendezvous with a mountain I have seen time and time again but have never climbed, Beinn Dearg. It is the forgotten one of the Torridon Four, and almost always get climbed after Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Ben Alligin.
The starting point is the Coire Mhic Nobaill car park, the same as for Ben Alligin or the ‘round Liathach’ path which is a cracking lower level walk in itself. The very good path winds its way up through the trees on the right hand side of the burn, soon reaching a fence where the trees end. From here Beinn Dearg just looks impregnable. It has the look of a large brick – all steep sides and right angles, but how on earth do you get up there?
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For those familiar with it, the first section of this walk is the same route as you would follow to reach the Horns of Ben Alligin; along the path, over the footbridge and soon afterwards take the left fork where the path splits by the large cairn. The well-made path winds its way upwards the Bealach a Chomhla, and after a half mile or so reaches another cairn which marks the junction with the Horns path. The clear path continues on close in to Ben Alligin, a wall of rock soaring over you. You seem a long way from Beinn Dearg on the other side of the valley, but stick to the path as the ground is a lot rougher over there. Finally the path peters out as it levels off at the edge of the Bealach a Chomhla itself. It is tempting to head straight across the head of the valley to reach the foot of the north west ridge of Stuc Loch na Cabhaig that now looms above. However, it is actually easier to contour around just below the lochans.
One thing becomes very apparent when you finally reach the foot of the steep slopes, there is no path. That was a surprise knowing how popular this hill is, and the limited number of ways up. The way ahead is in parts rocky, in others covered in scree, and the rest is steep grass. The route I used first skirted to the left of an obvious patch of scree, and then higher up I went to the right of an obvious line of crags that runs down the ridge. Every now and then I did encounter the slight traces of a grassy staircase with the odd boot print, but every time it dwindled away. Zigzagging steadily upwards I eventually topped out on the ridge line, at about 800m, a little below the top of Stuc Loch na Cabhaig. This is a place to stop and look around. To the north is Baosbheinn, looking particularly fine in the early morning light.
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Looking east I can see that it would be a wonderful morning to be in the Fisherfield, there is an inversion forming, surrounding the lower slopes of Slioch in mist, with A Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor clearly visible beyond.
From here it is a simple scramble to the top up a classic Torridonian sandstone rocky staircase. The top itself is a spectacular viewpoint only marginally lower than the true summit. It becomes clear that this mountain is far from the rectangular lump it appears from the valley below, but it is fine narrow J shaped ridge with a wide coire on the north side.
Baosbheinn Pano by
cliveg004, on Flickr
For photographers amongst you it is worth appreciating that the mountain runs east to west, so at this time of year there are not many shadows and therefore definition quickly burns out. For this reason, Ben Alligin looked very flat. Perhaps later in the day would be a better time to try to photograph this mountain when the sun is to the side rather than end on. However, the views north were very good indeed.
P6092915 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
The way ahead looked very promising, down nearly a hundred metres to a col, and then back up to the small flat summit plateau, with Liathach providing a proud backdrop.
Although it was still early, it was now warm and bright under the cloudless sky. The walking was easy down and then back up an enjoyable but straight-forward scramble along the rocky ridge that leads directly to the summit table. Apart from a few very small tors, the table is quite flat and featureless, tilted slightly towards the west. The summit cairn is on the far side, over-looking the Coire Mor and the flat hinterland beyond.
P6092941 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
From here the way gets interesting, and does need care in mist. You need to follow a narrowing ridge line from the main summit table, but turn left after about 200 metres to keep to the main ridge, as the way ahead is actually a false ridge that ends in a very steep drop. The main ridge is reasonably level but then the ground drops away before rising again to form a sharp ridge high above the Loch a Choire Mhoir. In the distance the mountains seem to be floating on the mist.
The ridge itself is a fine walk, but if you don’t fancy it, the difficulties can easily be bypassed on the right-hand side. Looking back you get an excellent view of the ridge so far.
The ridge ends in a wider flat platform, lulling you into a bit of a false sense of security. Up ahead lies Beinn Eighe and Liathach, with a cloud filled valley between.
The way down off this ridge is the most difficult part of the day, a scramble down a series of rocky steps that looks quite intimidating from above but is actually not hard if taken slowly and carefully.
Having made it past these rocky steps, that’s all of the day’s scrambling done. It is an amble to the next top, which provides a good view back across the coire, with the loch looking inky black below.
It is definitely worth taking in the outlying top of Carn na Feola, for close up views of Beinn Eighe and the jaws of Coire Mhic Fhearchair.
Carn na Feola provides a steep but easy way off Beinn Dearg, dropping down grassy slopes due south towards Liathach, aiming to hit the obvious path a few hundred yards west of the Loch Grobaig.
Once back on the path at the bottom of the hill, it is a long hot walk up and down glacial humps to begin with, and then on flatter ground lower down the valley. Past delightful little waterfalls, which would normally have far more water flowing over them.
Eventually you reach the point where the paths split, and it is worth getting that final close up view of the steep slopes of Beinn Dearg.
The way back through the woods is lovely, fragrant with pine and juniper. Reaching the car there is a realisation that that is it for another year – no more Scottish mountains, but I had finished on yet another high.
Still the day is not over. After lunch I made a return trip to Diabaig, at the far end of the road from Torridon. On the face of it, this is just a small collection of houses clinging to a steep hillside above a deep natural harbour. It is much more than that. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place that really does feel very remote indeed, and there a few other places like it – Arnisdale is one, but I can’t think of many more.
P6092994 by
cliveg004, on Flickr
There is a really forlorn sight on the stony beach. The wreck of the Dayspring has been slowly falling apart on the stones for years now, and is definitely now getting down to its skeleton.
I have no idea how this wreck came to be, but it is sad to see an old fishing boat slowly crumbling away. Perhaps someone out there knows the story?
Anyone who has driven to Diabaig will know the road winds very steeply over quite a short distance to reach the Bealach na Gaoithe at some 270 metres above sea level. There is a little parking spot where you can catch your breath and taking in the stunning views.
I just love this place.
Later that evening I settled down in my camping chair to a meal of Lidl’s finest tinned beef curry and instant rice, washed down with a rather nice pale ale. I noticed there was a change in the air. Previous evenings had been hot, dry and clear, but this evening a sheet of cloud was moving in from the east. Almost as soon as the cloud covered the sun, the temperature dropped and THEY emerged. A cloud of ravenous midges burst forth and set about the hapless campers. These midges had clearly been slowly starving to death having been beaten into cover by the baking sun, but now they wanted blood! Even though I was coated in Smidge it wasn’t going to stop this determined horde. Nothing for it, dive for cover into the tent. Once safely inside my midge net, it was fascinating to watch this seething mass who wanted to eat me. I also had a lovely moment watching a tiny sparrow picking up spilt grains of rice, literally inches away from me – she clearly hadn’t noticed me behind the net.
The following morning I had to begin the 500 mile plus journey back to Worcester, so once again I was up and away by 5am. This wonderful area had one last amazing scene to gaze at. As I drove along the valley towards Kinlochewe, the sun just started to pick out the summit of Liathach.
Liathach sunrise by
cliveg004, on Flickr
The view across Loch Clair is just wonderful, particularly on a morning like this.
By the time I reached Kinlochewe, I had hit cloud, and by Inverness it was raining. Perhaps there is something in that old adage about the Highlands, if it’s raining in the west, go further west. Apart from a brief respite near Aviemore, I stayed under a solid sheet of cloud with occasional rain all the way to Worcester, providing further confirmation if any was needed just how lucky I had been with the weather.
This really had been a wonderful trip, the finest parts of Scotland seen under the finest of conditions. It felt good to be alive, and I can’t wait to get back.
Thanks for reading.
