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With the amazing weather we've been having, I was itching to get back on the hills after returning from a great holiday in Bali. Last week the weather in Scotland seemed almost Balinese itself, just with less humidity and volcanoes around. On Saturday I returned to Tyndrum, scene of an unrelentingly tough walk from last year that I've still to write up.
There wasn't time for any Munro-bagging as I was coming back to Glasgow for dinnertime, and felt Ben Lui would be outwith my reach today, so I settled for the Graham/Corbett combo of Meall Odhar and Beinn Chuirn on a gold/lead mining tour patented by Graeme D. It turned out to be a cracker of a day in great conditions, and really whetted the appetite for a future attempt at Ben Lui.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
My obligatory crossing-River-Leven attempted snap of Ben Lomond.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The bonnie bonnie banks.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The remarkably steep and rugged banks!
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Craiging619, on Flickr
'Till we meet again...
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The weather had gotten rather gloomy by this stage, but it never looked like raining and I had the positive weather forecast in the back of my mind as I headed round to the scree slope/old lead mine/faint footpath up Sron nan Colan and hoped for the clouds to disappear.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
How deep is your lead?
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Craiging619, on Flickr
I turned left up the scree slope at a junction of paths, then after 5 minutes hopped up a slope near the first mine railings and found a lighter-coloured line of rocks that appeared to form the path up the hillside.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The ascent was not as bad as I had feared, and after about 30 minutes on the steep slope I emerged at the top of the old mine, following a faint path out of the scree and turning right to gain the broad ridge of Sron non Colan. A line of old fenceposts similar to Ben Reoch/Monadliath led the way with an on-off path underneath.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Fiarach overlooking a glum-looking Strath Fillan as the clouds rolled in.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Meall Odhar had been bathed in sunshine at the start of the walk, but now even it was succumbing to cloud which swept in from above. Beinn Chuirn was hidden from view behind it, prompting me to wonder if route-finding could become a little tricky later on.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
On the summit of Sron non Colan (with a surprisingly large cairn to lean on), I found conditions starting to improve dramatically. The cloud lifted from Meall Odhar, blue sky appeared above and things were starting to brighten up over on Beinn Chuirn. Could it be one of those traditional cloudy starts followed by sunny afternoons that we had grown accustomed to over the last week?
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
I cut through the very edge of the forest before heading for the rocky spine of Meall Odhar. Behind me the clouds still hung over Sron nan Colan, but up ahead things were looking much brighter...
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Bingo! The summit of Meall Odhar was reached just before midday, 1 1/2 hours after leaving Tyndrum Lower Station, and Beinn Chuirn lay directly ahead as the clouds cleared at last. The cairn was even larger than the one on Sron nan Colan, prompting me to wonder if they were built by teams of enthusiastic hill-walking miners back in the day. Only problem was...
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Craiging619, on Flickr
...it looked terrifying! A wall of rock lay within the corrie, with more rocky ground guarding the ridge in front. From this angle and height, it looked utterly enormous and, to a relative novice like me, almost impenetrable. Others had gone this way though, so it must be possible...?
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The mighty Ben Oss appeared behind the Cononish lead mine.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
A mini-firebreak in the trees led me fairly easily down to the deer fence. In the distance I was certain I could see a gate allowing easy access over the tall fence.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
However, when I arrived I found what was in fact a single span of wooden fence, perched rather inexplicably on the wire fence. Oh well, it did for support on the way across, I suppose...
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Craiging619, on Flickr
After considering the best options, I opted to go straight up onto the ridge as directly as possible, saving me the hassle of climbing out of the corrie later. This section was extremely steep, and for a minute or so I felt I was rather short of options, reminding me briefly of a terrifying climb of Creag Ghuanach previously. Thankfully, it got a fair bit easier on the ridge, while still steep and fairly unrelenting.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Wouldn't like to get lost up there in mist!
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Craiging619, on Flickr
At 800m the gradient eased significantly, so I curved left with the summit in sight.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
At 1:30pm, just over three hours into the climb, I reached Beinn Chuirn's summit, and by this point it had developed into a real summer's day. The reward was a 360-degree panorama of all the famous Munro's of Argyll: Cruachan, Black Mount, Bridge of Orchy, Ben Challum, Crianlarich (still shaking off the last of the cloud) and the Tyndrum beasts of Dubhchraig, Oss and Lui.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Beinn Dubhchraig and Ben Oss.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Ben Lui.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Loch Awe and Ben Cruachan.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
A zoom of (I think) the Arrochar Alps.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The Auch/Bridge of Orchy hills.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Me, with Ben Lui removing its sun-hat.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Reluctantly it was time to leave, as I was planning on getting the 5:14 train home and had just over three hours for the return along Glen Cononish. I headed down the relatively easy Southern slopes towards the Allt Eas Anie waterfall and goldmine.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Edging over the brow of the hill, the goldmine appeared below me. It looked extremely close, but getting off of Beinn Chuirn would prove just as tricky as getting onto it, and each step had to be meticulously taken for the final 150m descent down to the mine.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
It was with some considerable relief that I reached the mine road just after 3pm. With over two hours to saunter back to Tyndrum, I could relax and enjoy the incredible views back up the glen towards Beinn Chuirn and its lookalike father, Ben Lui.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Jings, someone lives in the middle of Glen Cononish AND has a satellite dish? Not a bad deal, all things considered.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Wowzers.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
Ben More and Stob Binnien appeared over the trees near Tyndrum.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The village and its surrounding mountains looked a lot brighter than six hours earlier.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
After a trip to the Green Welly Stop and extremely welcome glass of Coke (complete with free complimentary refill), it was time for the journey home. The Cobbler and Loch Long looked amazing in the evening sunlight.
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Craiging619, on Flickr
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Craiging619, on Flickr
#WaverleyKlaxon
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Craiging619, on Flickr
The end of another great Scottish day of combining hillwalking with sunbathing. I could well get used to this, if every summer was half this good for weather!