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Laggan to Fort Augustus via the Corrieyairick Pass, Friday 6th September 2013 OS Landranger Map 35 and 34. Start Laggan at 0750 arrive Fort Augustus at theCaledonian Canal locks at 1605. Total time 8 hrs 15 minutes. Distance 25 miles.Corrieyairick Pass today, 25 miles from Laggan up and over the hills to Fort Augustus. Been looking forward to this stretch of the Scottish National trail for ages and I wasn’t disappointed. Really enjoyable day.
Had booked a taxi from Kingussie taxis last night. They collected me from the Newtonmore Hostel at 0730 and dropped me off at the Laggan Stores at 0745.
Quick visit to the public toilet opposite the Laggan Stores and then I was on my way at 0750.
Maybe it’s just me but there’s something nice, something relaxing about getting underway reasonably early. I know I’ve got loads of daylight ahead of me, no need to rush, just take my time and savour the walk.
First stretch is easy; just follow the single track road in a westerly direction from Laggan towards the Spey Dam, then past the Spey Reservoir and onto Garva Bridge. Simple. Nice early morning view looking back to Laggan
After a short distance the road takes a left and heads down towards the Spey before then heading back west, running parallel to the Spey to the Spey Dam. There’s something therapeutic about walking by or close to water; when there’s no traffic, no man made noise, just the constant sound of the flowing river.
You soon cross over the Spey close to the Dam. The road rises up a small incline then drops down to run beside the Spey Reservoir. I arrived at the reservoir at 0835, 45 minutes after leaving Laggan.
Keep following the road to the far, western, end of the reservoir. Took me about 30 minutes to walk the length of the reservoir. You’ll pass a large house – Sherrabeg - then see the old bridge which now sits on its own, separate from the road. I believe the reason for this is that when the reservoir was built the road was re-routed.
Keep following the road, you’ll soon pass through a small plantation then go by Garvamore before arriving at Garva Bridge. It’s about 11km (7 miles) from Laggan to Garva Bridge. I got there at 0955 and stopped for 20 minutes to take in the view, contemplate what lay ahead and enjoy some water and a sandwich.
Over the bridge and keep following the road. The Spey is on your left, sometimes close by, other times a bit distant, and you pass by various conifer plantations. You’ll see a lonely cottage on your left – name on the OS map is Attachorain – about a mile before the sealed road finishes. The sealed road runs out just a few hundred metres short of Melgarve Bothy but the track that leads on is obvious and easy to follow (is this track you now follow the original road laid down by General Wade’s soldiers?)
The track starts to head uphill with Melgarve Bothy down to your left. It was 1110 (3 hours 20 minutes after starting) when I passed Melgarve Bothy.
Up to my right men were hard at work building the pylons for the new Beauly to Denny power line. Whatever your thoughts on this new power line, it seems to me to be a major engineering and logistical achievement to build the new line through such remote country.
Fording the Allt a Mhill Ghairbh was no problem, dry weather has its advantages. Keep following the track up the hill towards Corrie Yairick itself.
Just short of the summit I stopped for a few minutes, with a child like fascination, to watch a helicopter fly buckets of cement/concrete to a squad building one of the new pylon foundations. Helicopters go where lorries can’t.
Got to the summit at 1245 and enjoyed a quick conversation with one of the work managers. The helicopter pilot had spotted me walking up to the summit and wanted to check I was continuing on ie away from the work and would not be walking below his flight path. Who’d have thought walking the Corrieyairick could be construed as a potential health and safety risk due to walking too close to a helicopter flight path! I re-assured the chap in the hard hat that I was continuing onto Fort Augustus, and would be walking away from the work site. He wished me well and hoped I’d enjoy my day.
As I crossed the summit the most wonderful panorama opened up in front of me. What a view: away to the West, Loch Garry stood out, clear as you like, with the Glen Shiel mountains to its north and north west then the hills of Knoydart, further round to the West. I love days with good visibility!
From here you simply follow the track as it descends. It’s as easy as that! Stopped at the bridge over the Allt Lagan a Bhairne at 1335 for more food and water and savoured the fact I’d got a day of dry weather with excellent visibility for crossing the Corrieyairick. Truly, the sun shines on the righteous!
From the Allt Lagan a Bhairne bridge keep following the track. As you descend, you’ll soon see Blackburn Bothy to your left and the gorge that is Glen Tarff over to your right.
Parts of the track from here were a bit ‘chewed up.’ There’s a new track been built for vehicle traffic for use by those who are building the power line but I wondered if the Corrieyairick had also been used to gain access to the hills for those building the power line. Certainly didn’t seem like normal wear and tear.
Anyway, the only way was to keep following the path down. Eventually you get your first glimpse of the promised land that is Fort Augustus with a tantalising glimpse of Loch Ness also on offer.
The track finally arrived at a stream beside a sign saying, ‘Culachy Borrow Pit.’ Definitely out the wilderness now and back into ‘civilisation.’ Turn right when you cross the stream then take the left when you come to the fork. The left takes you up and away from the river before joining then descending down the power line construction track.
Off to your right you’ll see the vision in pink that is Culachy House.
Turn left here and follow the construction track down to a single lane road. Turn right along the single lane road for 400-500 metres until you see a couple of signposts on your left; one points the way to Cille Chuimein Burial Ground, the other is a bright yellow one saying, Lower Culachy.’ Follow the sign for the burial ground. This is a lovely stretch through the trees with the River below you to your right.
Arrive at the burial ground and climb in using the stone stile built into the wall.
Cross through the graveyard and turn left down a road – River Tarff on your right – and follow this road to it’s junction with the main A 82. Turn right and follow the A 82 the short distance into Fort Augustus.
A few minutes walk and you’re in the centre of Fort Augustus. I reached the swing bridge carrying the A82 over the Caledonian Canal at 1605 (8 hours 15 minutes after starting) One final task; follow the canal the 100 metres or so down to where it meets Loch Ness and take the obligatory photo of the Loch Ness sign.
Then head for my very nice central B and B located between the Canal and the River Oich - The Holt – for a shower, and a change of clothes before heading out for some food and a couple of beers while watching the Scotland v Belgium match. A full and very enjoyable day!
Fort Augustus has a good range of accommodation, bars, restaurants and shops. There are also cash machines here and regular buses north to Inverness and south to Fort William.
