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Putting one's faith in the weather forecast is a dangerous business but kudos to MWIS for their incredible accuracy. Solely on the fact that they predicted there would be a three-hour window of 70% cloud-free Munros mid-afternoon in the North-west did I venture out to Coulags in the mist and drizzle. They also said the wind would die down considerably so thought my chances were looking good.
Arrived at Coulags at 9:15 and got all togged up - everything was dripping wet and the midges were biting away (no wind down here in the strath). As I gained height the wind got stronger and I even found the bridge pretty exposed. By the time I got to the bothy the drizzle had turned to steady driving rain and I could see waves of it coming down the corrie.
At the bothy looking up Meall na Ceapairean.
I stopped here for breakfast and wrote my name in the book before heading past the big rock and heading up to the Bealach a' Coire Ghairbh. By now the path was indistinguishable from a stream and some of the boggy parts required short detours.
Heading up the bealach with MCD ahead but with the bald head in the clouds.
By the time I got to the top of the bealach the rain had eased somewhat and the cloud base had lifted so that I could see the surrounding hills (not the tops though) but now the wind was the main issue. However, when you attain the bealach this beautiful scene opens up in front of you. Now I had read/viewed all the walk reports on this hill and wondered why on earth all the people went on and on about An Ruadh-stac. It is one of these hills that does not translate onto the screen. It's a truly beautiful sight and you are right up close to it. It has many little lochans surrounding it - one of which (Loch a' Mhadaidh Ruadh - Loch of the Fox) is described by Ralph Storer as possibly the prettiest lochan in Scotland. The bad weather just adds to the brooding atmosphere. Here it is:
So, it has jumped very high on the list...
At the top of the bealach the wind was gusting such that it was very hard to stand still without using my poles for balance, so I took a little detour towards the little lochan and sheltered in the lee of a rock to assess my options. After about twenty minutes and deciding I had to turn back because of the wind I went back up to the bealach to where the paths join and just said to myself, "Let me just try a few metres and see what it's like." I realized that although the wind was pretty cyclical, it was mainly coming from the north and the path is really on the south-west side of the hill so it got more and more sheltered. So I just kept on up the scree path and reached the level, grassy part to find that the wind was now down to a manageable strong breeze. Also, the sky was blue and there were just some puffy white clouds around to make things interesting.
Heading up the quartzite path with Beinn Damph ahead. This was the first sight I had of the summit of Mail Chean-dearg.
An Ruadh-stac showing its face.
The quartzite isn't as bad as it looks as there is a well defined path through it. Summit ahead!
I didn't find the rocky red 'chean' too difficult although I lost the path (if there is one) many times. There are some little cairns built but really one route seems as good as another as long as you keep going in the general direction of the summit. I'm sure it could be a bit confusing in the mist and then they may be helpful.
There are some great views from the top of Beinn Damph, Beinn na h-Eaglaise and three big boys of Torridon. I was quite taken with Beinn na h-Eaglaise with its many little lochans and interesting structure. Beinn Damph is also beckoning. My list is getting longer and longer.....
Beinn na h-Eaglaise looking fascinating.
From Maol Chean-dearg by
AnnieMacD, on Flickr
Beinn Damph.
Lovely Loch an Eoin and Beinn na h-Eaglaise with Torridon village beyond.
Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh
Beinn Damph summit.
Liathach begins to show its face.
An Ruadh-stac in all its glory.
As I was picking my way through the boulders on the descent I heard a voice shouting, "Annie, Annie - are you Annie?" Why, who on earth would know me up here? It was couple from Yorkshire who had read my name in the bothy log and just checking I was OK. The people one meets on the hill are so friendly
Strath Carron and An Ruadh-stac again...
The path through the quartzite just above the scree path.
Summits of Sgorr Ruadh and Beinn Liath Mhor.
Fuar Tholl shows its chin.
Liathach and Beinn Eighe.
Foxy Loch and Loch a'Bealach Ruadh-stac beyond. You can see Bealach a'Choire Garbh down towards the left. This is from the scree path.
Loch Coire Fionnaraich, Sgorr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl. It looks like a wide path going up the north-west side of Sgorr Ruadh but it doesn't appear on the map so it's probably a wee allt.
Fuar Tholl and Meall nan Ceapairean with the path snaking down the corrie.
Just as I was getting to the bealach, all of a sudden the sky started to change dramatically.
Thunderstorm heading this way by
AnnieMacD, on Flickr
Shortly after there was a huge peal of thunder and the heavens opened for about 15 minutes. All the paths became streams again and the going got tougher. However, the sky cleared completely after the shower and it was a lovely late afternoon walk down Coire Fionnaraich. I didn't dare take my camera out during the downpour.
Back down at 180m and approaching the bothy.
Coulin Bothy, Strathcarron by
AnnieMacD, on Flickr
... and one last look at Fuar Tholl which is just starting to take on its familiar shape.
I could have stopped in Lochcarron to take a photo of Wellington's Nose but I was just too tired.
Another great day in the hills.
