After a warmer night than expected a leisurely start saw us getting going for 10ish. It is always interesting to arrive somewhere at night and have no knowledge of what your surroundings are like til you wake in the morning. To the west lay the waters of Loch Quoich, low cloud sitting on the mountain tops. Back eastward fog lay in the dips in the land, creating a fluffy dreamscape. Weather not as bright as I’d hoped for…
P1050281 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050283 by 23weasels, on Flickr
It was a short drive of 4km along to a parking spot for the walk up to Spidean. Lots of works going on – pipelines, diggers, earth movers and general desecration of the landscape. We’d decided to do the route anticlockwise, and were soon tramping through boggy terrain. Snowline was at around 350m and the path wove in and out of sight. Lots of thick, soft, wet snow that congealed around your boots to contend with. Up ahead we could see the faint outline of the ridge surrounding coire dubh, white snow in white clag. Pressing on through the snow we got to the top, where a chill wind was blowing. Peak of the Animals – well the only animal I saw was an earwig on the summit cairn as we stopped for a bite to eat. An earwig in snow at 996m – go figure!
P1050287 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Spidean Mialach
P1050289 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050290 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Onwards to Gleouraich next – following the ridge around the Garbh coires, down to the bealach then up again to 1006m Creag Coire na Fiar Bhelaich. At times it looked as though the sun might come through but twas not to be. Smirry rain and clag continued. We sometimes got a glimpse back southwards to Loch Quoich, but the South Glenshiel ridge just to our north remained shrouded. Finally the cairn of Gleouriach appeared ahead and we’d made it – this marked my 200th Munro of this year, which gave cause for a mini-celebration.
Glimpses of the northern coire from SM
P1050293 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Up to CCnFB
P1050298 by 23weasels, on Flickr
View back along the ridge edge
P1050299 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Loch Quoich
P1050300 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Number 200 for the year
P1050306 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Stumbling through the snowy bogs we picked up a great stalkers path that took us fairly painlessly down the shoulder of the mountain. As we descended, views to the south and west opened up – the bridge over the northern finger of Loch Quoich and tomorrow’s intended target beyond. Back down at the car, feet soaked but happy after just over 6 hours walking.
Beginning the descent
P1050308 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Rose tinted hills
P1050309 by 23weasels, on Flickr
West along Loch Quoich
P1050313 by 23weasels, on Flickr
A moody Gairich
P1050316 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050317 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Before the light completely failed we drove along to the bridge and cast around for a suitable pitching spot. There’s a little flat area just beyond the parking area for Mhaoraich which we made good use of. Happily, I’d brought some veg chilli for tea tonight, so there was more of a feast than the usual noodles. Great what a bit of good spicy food can do when you’re cold and tired.
Next morning dawned clear and still. We headed off down the road towards the start of the walk. Loch Quoich was tranquil with the south shore hills reflected mirror-like in the surface of the water. Near the beginning of the path our way was blocked by a stag, who eventually moved to higher ground and stood watching us as we set foot on the stalker’s path. Ahead was another and to our left a group of 4 stags. Obviously Sunday morning get together for the beasts.
Campsite
P1050318 by 23weasels, on Flickr
East along L Quoich
P1050320 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Towards Knoydart (with stag)
P1050324 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Watchin' you...
P1050326 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Mirror pool
P1050330 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050332 by 23weasels, on Flickr
The path was another good one and took us fairly effortlessly to 600m. My eyes were continually being drawn back south to the Loch Arkaig hills…Soon we could see the hump of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach ahead, with the imposing Sgurr a’Mhaoraich beyond. We were following the footsteps of walkers from the day before which helped rather than having to break trail. Despite the sunlight and the warmth of the day, the snow was crunchy and became increasingly glazed as we gained height. To our right lay Gleouraich, resplendent, ahead to the north the great curve of the south Shiel ridge. We could see the sunlight playing on the pointy peak of The Saddle.
First sight of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich
P1050336 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Drinking in the scenery...
P1050339 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Gleouraich
P1050342 by 23weasels, on Flickr
View south over L Quoich
P1050346 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050349 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Final steep section
P1050350 by 23weasels, on Flickr
In the last section up towards the summit we required to negotiate a couple of boulder crags which were made a little tricky by a layer of ice on the surface. Time for crampons and axe to be deployed. Then a steep slope up to the summit proper, on frozen snow. On the flattish top the view astounded. Sgritheall, Ladhar Beinn, Forcan Ridge, Sisters, Ciste Dubh, A’Chralaig, even my personal nemesis hill Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan (yet to be climbed) stood out bold and white against a blue sky. Snow delineated the sharp edges of the mountains and gave testament to the awesome forces of nature responsible for wresting this lot out of the ground. The air was warm, there was still not a breath of air and I would have willingly suspended time to stay here and gawp.
P1050351 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Half a Sick Kid and the Saddle behind
P1050354 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Summit panorama
P1050357_Panorama by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050361 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050362 by 23weasels, on Flickr
However, it was time to press on as the thought of a long drive back in the dark was still nagging away at the back of my mind. Yesterday’s crew had returned the way they’d come, but we decided to complete the route round the northern edge of Coire a’Chaorainn which meant a steep rocky descent to Bhealach Coire a’Chaorainn then an equally steep climb up 150m or so to Am Bathaich. Sick Kid was definitely not impressed as some of the moves involved a bit of knee work, but we made it. We did pass a strange circular ice hole which appeared the wintry equivalent of a crop circle. Allison dared me to stand in it, but I thought it likely to be a portal to some icy hell or other, so left it untouched.
Descent from SaM
P1050365 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Gleouraich
P1050368 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Way ahead to Am Bathaich
P1050369 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050371 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Ice vortex
P1050374 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Summit Am Bathaich
P1050376 by 23weasels, on Flickr
The route now took us over a series of descending tops until we reached the eastern shoulder. Another steep descent through deepish snow with the occasional boulder and plunge pit then onto the geometry…On our ascent we’d noted a perfectly chiselled pattern of zigzags as the path descended and we followed these down the remainder of the way until we reached the flat – and boggy – land alongside Allt Coire a’Chaorainn. Another river to cross, a drink of water to replenish parched throats (Sick Kid not too keen on the water animal swimming at the bottom of her cup) and a pleasant walk alongside the River Quoich through trees in the fading light. The walk had taken longer, and more effort than I’d have guessed and it was with no small relief that we hit the vehicle track for the last 3 km back to the car. A fantastic day out in the hills.
Descent path
P1050377 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050379 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Pastel coloured Ben in the distance
P1050380 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050382 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Coire a'Chaorainn
P1050384 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050385 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Gleouraich
P1050386 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Gairich
P1050387 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050388 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050389 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1050391 by 23weasels, on Flickr
Thats dedication for you 
That's 4 a weekend walking every weekend 
