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Hills of Innocence - Hills of ExperienceI did these hills back in early March when I only had a handful of hills under my belt - Beinn Udlamain indeed was my Number 50. At that time I remember looking down Loch Ericht towards the Alder hills - which were hidden by clag - and being so excited about the planned expedition we had for Alder at Easter time. I'd done no ridges, no scary stuff, no overnight treks or wild-camping multi-dayers - everything lay ahead and was all a new adventure. Ten months have passed and we've crammed so many fabulous experiences into that time. Coming back to do the hills this weekend as a bit of "catch-up" for Sick Kid did feel like setting foot upon them with an entirely different set of skills. Mind you, back in March I felt fit and healthy when I romped around the Drumochter 4 and headed off to do Chuaich later in the same day. All the trips since then have taken their toll of me physically and left me something of a decrepit shell of the man I was
We set off at 5.30 from Gourock and got to Balsporran Cottages just gone 8. A few other folk were there and setting off. As we set off to Geal Charn the sky to the south east glowed a fiery pink/red to start with, turning golden as the sun, and we, rose higher. Past the truncated cairns that used to be the marching men and up to the first hill of the day within an hour of leaving the car.
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23weasels, on Flickr
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Heading over to A'Mharconaich the clouds cleared sufficiently for us to glance down Loch Ericht and see the pristine snow on Alder, with the sharp edge of Sgor Iutharn to its right. Ah - such memories

It's an easy trek through the heather, dusted with snow and up onto the flat plateau to traipse north to the summit cairn. Over to the south-east the sky looked impressive with bands of fiery yellow/orange and grey blue clouds behind the great curve of Sgairneach Mhor's Coire Creagach.
Loch Ericht
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23weasels, on Flickr
Bhoil, Alder & Sgor Iutharn
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Cross the tundra to A'Mharconaich
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A'Mharconaich
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Sgairneach Mhor
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Onwards to Udlamain, easy going on firm ground and a straightforward pull to the cairn. By this time the wind had got up, chilling fingers and noses. We sheltered in the cairn structure and had an early lunch - three tops down in just over 3 hours, this was good going given Sick Kid needs robot knee replacements not to mention my crushed feet bones

We were joined by a guy from Inverness who we met intermittently on our route.
Over to Udlamain
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23weasels, on Flickr
The hardest part of the route is heading over boggy pathless featureless land towards Sgairneach Mhor. Clag obscuring the way ahead didn't help. Eventually we emerged to dryer and grassier ground with the sun peeking through the mist and had a gentle amble up to the cairn.
Featureless bog
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23weasels, on Flickr
The intimidating last section to Sgairneach Mhor's summit
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23weasels, on Flickr
Well - that's the easiest 4 Munros you'll do
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23weasels, on Flickr
Now it was my turn to get something out of the day in terms of balloons - last time round I'd not gone over The Sow - today the little piggy would get a visitation. Heading down from Sgairneach's top, past the semi-impressive coire edge and over the stony path towards the 758 top - making sure to take the path that contours round to the right, not the one that goes to the top of this hill, then onto the easy to see trail up the back of the Sow. In the cleft between was a huge herd of deer, only a section of which were captured in my photo. Top of the piglet as the weather started to close in and gentle smirry rain started.
758 top with the Sow beyond
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23weasels, on Flickr
How many deer here?
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23weasels, on Flickr
Where you end up if you take the trail over the 758 top
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Happy as a pig in...
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Yay - Sick Kid gets her 7th Corbett
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"Are those Robot Knees no' ready yet?"
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The descent was actually a lot easier than I had anticipated and even Allison managed it without too many swear words (although as she was well behind me, I might be wrong there

) Over the boggy ground at the bottom, heading for the river near the bend as I remembered the way under the railway line was to follow the south-bound track to the underpass. Met up with the lad from Inverness soon after, and chatting made the traipse back along the A9 more bearable.
Looking back on the Sow
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/people/29312277@N08/]23weasels[/url], on Flickr
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We'd decided to head along to Layby 94 and take the tent some of the way along the track to Meall Chuaich. However, seeing the car parked all on its lonesome in a layby on a busy road did not feel comfortable and I decided to take the car a short way up the track and just camp nearby - worked out alright. Wasn't the most restful of nights however, as the sound of traffic from the nearby A9 and the trains was joined by an eerie wail from wind in the powerlines, sounding like a legion of ghouls attempting a lullaby (badly).
Meall Chuaich is a big whaleback of a hill, reached after a few KMs along a good track, past a huge pipeline that lies obliquely half buried in the ground. We whisked along the track and started up the steady slope, boggy inderfoot. Wildlife abounded - grouse took off and landed with their chortles, there was a whistling of wind from the wings of a squadron of ptarmigan that did a low-level flypast and many snow bunnies popped up here and there. White as the driven snow - but unfortunately for them there was no snow - driven or otherwise - to hide in. I wondered if they think they're perfectly camoflaged in their winter whites despite the fact that they stick out like a patch of snow in a coal bunker. Also pondered what triggers their switch in coat colour - turns out it's changing photoperiod as days shorten.
The task ahead
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"You can't see me, can you...what do you mean you can???"
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23weasels, on Flickr
Atmospheric clag
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23weasels, on Flickr
Meall Chuaich has an enormous cairn which pixified Sick Kid as she stood alongside it - only 38 behind me now

We enjoyed a cup of coffee and flapjack out of the wind for our elevenses before heading back down - delighted to meet Trekker 53 whom we'd met at the WH Skye meet and having a good natter. Headed down to the dam at Loch Chuaich on the return to the car to enjoy our sandwiches by the water's edge, thinking what a perfect spot this would make for a wild camp. Back at the car for 1.30 and down the road by 4pm - amazing to get home on a Sunday these days before the moon's high in the sky.
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23weasels, on Flickr
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Perfect spot for a picnic
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