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Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!


Postby coachmacca » Sat Jan 18, 2014 6:02 pm

Date walked: 11/01/2014

Time taken: 10 hours

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Been ages since I submitted a walk report beacuse I guess most people have done most of the routes I have done :wink:

Even if you dont want to read the report... skip to the end and read the story there.... :shock:

Been working towards move vertical routes and higher altitude in 2014 with a lot of indoor ice climbing and doing routes like Curved Ridge and Ledge route through 2013. We had to the Alps in June for more and have 3 days planned winter climbing in Glencoe in early Feb so I was keen to get out and do a great winter route ...

Twitter has proved to be a great place for me to meet like minded folks, gleam loads of info and just generally spend my time talking about mountaineering lol :lol:

Through this path I connected with a few guys from Livingstone Mountaineering club and they very kindly invited me to their first winter route - Ledge Route - a simple Grade II route last weekend and I jumped at the chance!

Route was incredible, tiring, exciting and just exhilarating as you will know if you've done it and I simply loved every minute of it (when I wanted panting like a dog on a hot day!)

I'll let some pics do the talking and just note some key points but I encourage you all to read the last bit.. this is te highlight/lowlight of the tale - simply gob-smacked! History on here has taught me caution around topics like this so I will say - this isn't an attack on individuals (well not these two anyway) but is a great cautionary tail and I hope everyone takes it in that vein! 8)

Stayed at the Wild Goose Chase Hostel FT William ,up at 5.30am , brekkie, gear sorting, faffing waiting on someone who was dleayed due to bad road conditions, and up to the North Car park for 7.30.
Head up the (VERY BLOODY) steep path to arive at the top car park that leads via the path to the CIC. Snow lying thinkly, wee bit in the air but rain stopped and feeling good!

Walked in , harder that I remembered and was glad to reach CIC to grab a bite and then gear up to start up No5 Gully which is the start point for Ledge (After entering No5 you swing right to the route)

The folks geared up to go (Mrs Mac in foreground and a team from CIC moving ahead of us in background)

Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

Looking at a snowy Ben!
Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

We moved up over alot of avalanche debris (we had bacsed our route on alot of avalanche activity in No2 and No5 Gullies. It was like walking over big microwave sized blocks of snow ice - I WOULD NOT want to be under that :shock:

It was at this point that MrsMac and another girl with us decided they had come far enough and that they wouldnt be sure they had the energy to go on so headed back down to go shopping - right choice in our opinion ..

Avalanche debris below No5Gully - hard slog!
Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

Fraser moving to turn into No5 Gully at the top of the debris field (hes carrying my insanely heavy 60m rope)
Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

Hard going.... No5 Ahead
Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr



Once up and across Gully No5 we spent a good 30 mins on the first ledge letting the team in front get away and taking our time to rope out team into 2 teams of 3. From that ledge was the first pitch and pretty step to start. In winter the route is not the same obviously but follows the same " line".

Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr



Moving as a 3, stopping rarely to lay protection we progressed up the ridge - weather being kind - cold but wind light and no snow at this point (oh how it changes...)

Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr


After about a 3 hour climb we topped out on Carn Dearg into wind , hail and snow..! :lol:
Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

Now normally that would be that! summit pic , bite to eat and head down but first the hail was so hard and conditions so wild we decided to remain roped for descent at least for now and then after realising all the metal we had was creating "north" in all directions we established a good line and were about to move of when.. and this is where the story gets interesting...

... out of the "white" I see's 2 dark figures approaching from the Ben summit.. we decided to stop and check they were ok, looked a bit erratc and as they neared it was obvious they had NO gear and were not really to sure where they were going although one did have map and compass and they were going ina general down direction so not all bad...

We met -and this is what we saw

1 - a young 19 yr old american dressed in Jeans (rime covered), Scarf , sort of canvassy jacket, "hiking" shoes (allegedly) and a small backpack. No xe, crampons, goggles waterproofs etc
2 - a camo clothed guy who it turned out is an RAF reservist from Luchars (originally from down south) - he has goggles and boots I think.

They were glad to have met us they were off navigation wise and tbh were heading towards Carn Dearg.... in the whote out they had got a bit lost..

2 hrs max of light left we got them in live with us and led on..Slipping and sliding they slowly walked down - we then gave them axes - exolained not to hold it like a weapon and again off we set,,, condictions worsened and we still had a bit to go so we decidied to put them on the rope too.

Eventaully we reached the lochan, gear off and got the full story.

The camo guy had decided to go on as far as the Lochan based on a advice from his captain (or whatever they call them) and the student had met him en route. while at the LOchan two " experienced" guys had appeared from the CIC and after discusion agreed to lead them to the summit :shock:

On arrival at the summit.. the experience guys announced they were off to do CMD but as the two "tourists" didnt have gear they couldnt follow so had been left to find their own way down!

Heres a pic of us together...
tourists.jpg



Hard to show just how bad the conditions were and how close we believe these guys came to being in really deep trouble but with no gear, lost, failing light and limited if any hill skills its not a bet i'd want to take!

Me just before we me the two wanderers
ledge route snowy CD summit.jpg



The two that led them up are in my mind are dangerous , the two "tourists" could be called daft or simply uneducated but glad were were there and once down we ensure they had at least 1 hand torch and sent them off down the tourist path. I would love to know what the RAF guy told his captain!

To finish here's a cracking view from the lochan

Image
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by coachmacca, on Flickr

We walked out to the north car park nd got back to the cars at 6 totally goosed! beer and food to follow

Absolutely brilliant day with great guys! :D :clap:
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby GillC » Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:23 am

Smashing pics and a great report,, looks like you had a cracking day.

As for the issue of the 2 "tourists" nuff said. Shocking behaviour from their initial guides up the hill. Hope they are feeling proud of themselves. (yes the unprepared walkers were a bit naïve but they obviously trusted the judgement of these other two)

You guys averted a potential baddy there. well done.
:clap:
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby Caberfeidh » Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:05 pm

Well done on saving them, it was hardly their fault as they had been misled by morons. I was similarly misled on my first visit to the Ben in the mid 1980s. About 10pm on a December night we called into the Yoof Hostel in Glen Nevis and asked the hostel reception guy about various shelters marked on the map (the C.I.C. hut, the old Anderson shelter up in Corrie Leis and the summit shelter). The guy told us they were all open, available and suitable for sleeping in. He seemed to think we were setting off then and there, at that time of night, and was quite happy to send us to our deaths. The C.I.C. hut is of course locked, to be booked in advance by clubs, the other two shelters are not in the least suitable for sleeping in, the Corrie Leis one which we reached about 3pm the following day was doorless and full of snow...
We hiked back in the dark, and that reception guy's corpse has never been found....
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby clivegrif » Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:18 pm

Great report and good to see there si plenty of snow up there - this shows what winter climbing can be all about.

Well done indeed!
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby Tomsie » Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:26 pm

Lucky them, could have being serious. Well done. :clap: :clap:
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby celt54321 » Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:37 pm

i think the two experienced guys who took them up to the summit might have took the time to walk back accross the plateau to the start of the ziz zags with them just to make sure they knew that they were on the way down and ok.then again you never know for sure who said what to who,maybe the less experienced guys didnt want to say that they werent sure about the situation they were in. :? but as they say alls well that ends well.and that looks like a really good day you had up there well done :clap:
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby coachmacca » Sun Jan 19, 2014 5:19 pm

Cheers for likes folks - awesome day , still smiling ! Agree completely thet while the two tourists were daft or naive the two others are either very very daft or just plain dangerous - leading inexperienced walkers to the Ben summit and leaving them is incredible!

Anyway ended well so that's good at least
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby mash tun » Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:49 am

coachmacca wrote:Eventaully we reached the lochan, gear off and got the full story.
The camo guy had decided to go on as far as the Lochan based on a advice from his captain (or whatever they call them) and the student had met him en route. while at the LOchan two " experienced" guys had appeared from the CIC and after discusion agreed to lead them to the summit :shock:
On arrival at the summit.. the experience guys announced they were off to do CMD but as the two "tourists" didnt have gear they couldnt follow so had been left to find their own way down!
I have now read through this a couple of times and I am curious about something. Your note says that you got the full story but really you have only one side of the story. I do accept that you were actually there and we were not but perhaps readers should not judge the "two experienced guys" without first hearing their side of the story which may differ significantly ? I am glad though that all ended well and you had a great trip.
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby Moriarty » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:01 pm

coachmacca wrote:The two that led them up are in my mind are dangerous

Certainly sound it - sending inexperienced, poorly equipped walkers off in winter conditions to make their own way is not a great example.....even if you give them correct instructions. :?

Congrats on the winter climb - looks impressive. :)
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby tomyboy73 » Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:36 pm

well done Macca, that looks like an awsome day out , and you`ve come a long way young skywalker :lol: sorry :lol: looks like all that ice climbing and gym work is paying off, twitter friend :lol:
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby spiderwebb » Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:03 pm

Great report and pics. Well done for assisting the other two, or we could have been reading about this on the news, close call methinks, well done !!
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby coachmacca » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:20 pm

mash tun wrote: Your note says that you got the full story but really you have only one side of the story. I do accept that you were actually there and we were not but perhaps readers should not judge the "two experienced guys" without first hearing their side of the story which may differ significantly ? I am glad though that all ended well and you had a great trip.


Hi Mash - agree two sides are always there so its a valid point - that said - I would have refused point blank to take anyone up in that gear/conditions . However yes - never black and white :)
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby coachmacca » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:22 pm

tomyboy73 wrote:well done Macca, that looks like an awsome day out , and you`ve come a long way young skywalker :lol: sorry :lol: looks like all that ice climbing and gym work is paying off, twitter friend :lol:


Thank you Obi Wan :lol: Aye I'm enthusiastic if nothing else and have to say to all my new found Mountain friends (real in the flesh or in the twittersphere) a massive thanks - loads of not only motivation but great practical advise and at time a helpful tug on a :lol: :clap: rope lol
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby coachmacca » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:41 pm

Caberfeidh wrote:Well done on saving them, it was hardly their fault as they had been misled by morons. I was similarly misled on my first visit to the Ben in the mid 1980s. ....... and that reception guy's corpse has never been found....


Funny you say that - we came across what looked like as shallow gr.. eh I mean .. thats awful! 8)
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Re: Ben Nevis Ledge Route! First Winter Climb + rescue!

Postby lomondwalkers » Wed Jan 22, 2014 3:47 pm

What a cracking first Winter route 8) Great pics of what looked an awesome day :clap:
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