free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Been ages since I submitted a walk report beacuse I guess most people have done most of the routes I have done
Even if you dont want to read the report... skip to the end and read the story there....
Been working towards move vertical routes and higher altitude in 2014 with a lot of indoor ice climbing and doing routes like Curved Ridge and Ledge route through 2013. We had to the Alps in June for more and have 3 days planned winter climbing in Glencoe in early Feb so I was keen to get out and do a great winter route ...
Twitter has proved to be a great place for me to meet like minded folks, gleam loads of info and just generally spend my time talking about mountaineering lol
Through this path I connected with a few guys from Livingstone Mountaineering club and they very kindly invited me to their first winter route - Ledge Route - a simple Grade II route last weekend and I jumped at the chance!
Route was incredible, tiring, exciting and just exhilarating as you will know if you've done it and I simply loved every minute of it (when I wanted panting like a dog on a hot day!)
I'll let some pics do the talking and just note some key points but I encourage you all to read the last bit.. this is te highlight/lowlight of the tale - simply gob-smacked! History on here has taught me caution around topics like this so I will say - this isn't an attack on individuals (well not these two anyway) but is a great cautionary tail and I hope everyone takes it in that vein!
Stayed at the Wild Goose Chase Hostel FT William ,up at 5.30am , brekkie, gear sorting, faffing waiting on someone who was dleayed due to bad road conditions, and up to the North Car park for 7.30.
Head up the (VERY BLOODY) steep path to arive at the top car park that leads via the path to the CIC. Snow lying thinkly, wee bit in the air but rain stopped and feeling good!
Walked in , harder that I remembered and was glad to reach CIC to grab a bite and then gear up to start up No5 Gully which is the start point for Ledge (After entering No5 you swing right to the route)
The folks geared up to go (Mrs Mac in foreground and a team from CIC moving ahead of us in background)
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Looking at a snowy Ben!
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
We moved up over alot of avalanche debris (we had bacsed our route on alot of avalanche activity in No2 and No5 Gullies. It was like walking over big microwave sized blocks of snow ice - I WOULD NOT want to be under that
It was at this point that MrsMac and another girl with us decided they had come far enough and that they wouldnt be sure they had the energy to go on so headed back down to go shopping - right choice in our opinion ..
Avalanche debris below No5Gully - hard slog!
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Fraser moving to turn into No5 Gully at the top of the debris field (hes carrying my insanely heavy 60m rope)
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Hard going.... No5 Ahead
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Once up and across Gully No5 we spent a good 30 mins on the first ledge letting the team in front get away and taking our time to rope out team into 2 teams of 3. From that ledge was the first pitch and pretty step to start. In winter the route is not the same obviously but follows the same " line".
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Moving as a 3, stopping rarely to lay protection we progressed up the ridge - weather being kind - cold but wind light and no snow at this point (oh how it changes...)
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
After about a 3 hour climb we topped out on Carn Dearg into wind , hail and snow..!
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
Now normally that would be that! summit pic , bite to eat and head down but first the hail was so hard and conditions so wild we decided to remain roped for descent at least for now and then after realising all the metal we had was creating "north" in all directions we established a good line and were about to move of when.. and this is where the story gets interesting...
... out of the "white" I see's 2 dark figures approaching from the Ben summit.. we decided to stop and check they were ok, looked a bit erratc and as they neared it was obvious they had NO gear and were not really to sure where they were going although one did have map and compass and they were going ina general down direction so not all bad...
We met -and this is what we saw
1 - a young 19 yr old american dressed in Jeans (rime covered), Scarf , sort of canvassy jacket, "hiking" shoes (allegedly) and a small backpack. No xe, crampons, goggles waterproofs etc
2 - a camo clothed guy who it turned out is an RAF reservist from Luchars (originally from down south) - he has goggles and boots I think.
They were glad to have met us they were off navigation wise and tbh were heading towards Carn Dearg.... in the whote out they had got a bit lost..
2 hrs max of light left we got them in live with us and led on..Slipping and sliding they slowly walked down - we then gave them axes - exolained not to hold it like a weapon and again off we set,,, condictions worsened and we still had a bit to go so we decidied to put them on the rope too.
Eventaully we reached the lochan, gear off and got the full story.
The camo guy had decided to go on as far as the Lochan based on a advice from his captain (or whatever they call them) and the student had met him en route. while at the LOchan two " experienced" guys had appeared from the CIC and after discusion agreed to lead them to the summit
On arrival at the summit.. the experience guys announced they were off to do CMD but as the two "tourists" didnt have gear they couldnt follow so had been left to find their own way down!
Heres a pic of us together...
Hard to show just how bad the conditions were and how close we believe these guys came to being in really deep trouble but with no gear, lost, failing light and limited if any hill skills its not a bet i'd want to take!
Me just before we me the two wanderers
The two that led them up are in my mind are dangerous , the two "tourists" could be called daft or simply uneducated but glad were were there and once down we ensure they had at least 1 hand torch and sent them off down the tourist path. I would love to know what the RAF guy told his captain!
To finish here's a cracking view from the lochan
Ben Nevis Ledge Route Jan '14 by
coachmacca, on Flickr
We walked out to the north car park nd got back to the cars at 6 totally goosed! beer and food to follow
Absolutely brilliant day with great guys!