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Tuesday, 25th March 2014, Ullapool to Oykel Bridge. Dep Ullapool 0840, arrive Oykel Bridge Hotel 1600, time taken 7 hours 20 minutes. Distance, 19-20 miles approximately. OS Landranger map 20 covers 99% of the route though the start comes under OS Landranger 19 and the final few yards are on OS Landranger 16. Weather, dry with high clouds and occasional blue sky.Last year I managed to perambulate from Kirk Yetholm as far North as Ullapool. This year the challenge is to get from Ullapool to Cape Wrath and complete the Scottish National trail, albeit I'll have done it in stages rather than non stop.
This was a nice easy day with most of the walking on good, well maintained estate tracks and estate roads but with one potentially tricky river crossing. The country you pass through might be devoid of people and houses but the navigation is straightforward. That said, the landscape you pass through definitely feels remote! I'd imagine that mountain bikers would enjoy this section; it's a good surface most of the way.
You join the track just before the bridge over the Ullapool River that carries the main road north. As you approach the bridge from Ullapool a road heads of to the right towards the quarry and onto Loch Achall. It's an obvious choice and when i walked it there was also a board at the start of the road which said Breedon Aggregates, Morefield Quarry. Nice easy, obvious road to follow to start with.
- Easy road to follow to start with today
After a few minutes the working quarry comes into view on your left. 15 minutes later a larger (disused?) quarry appears on your right.
- This quarry soon appears on your right
The road crosses the Ullapool River river and heads towards a white cottage - Glastullich - before swinging to the right and running along the north shore of Loch Achall.
- Road crosses over the Ullapool river as you approach the NW end of Loch Achall
I arrived at the NW (the Ullapool) end of Loch Achall at 0930. It was then a pleasant walk along the length of Loch Achall, on what is still a sealed road. Road passes through some trees (be nice in the Summer when they are in leaf) with Rhidorroch House above you.
- Road running through the trees beside Loch Achall
I reached the far (NE) end of the Loch at 1005 from where I enjoyed excellent views back along the route I'd walked.
- View back down Loch achall from NE end of the Loch
Track contines east from here and offered great views of the journey ahead.
- View ahead as track leaves Loch Achall
About 25-30 minutes after passing the end of Loch Achall I reached a lonely house at Cardubh. By 1105 I passed East Rhidorroch Lodge, the last occupied house i saw until I reached Oykel Bridge. The road deteriorates slighly from here but still makes for easy walking. At East Rhidorroch Lodge the track swings left and goes quite steeply uphill as it heads towards Loch an Daimh.
- Loch an Daimh
As you approach Loch an Daimh you are rewarded with some great views down Glen Douchary.
Another path joins this track round about grid reference 261931. The track - still good, broad and easy to follow - continues NE from here, high above Loch an Daimh, to Knockdamph Bothy.
- Knockdamph Bothy
I arrived at Knockdamph Bothy at 1225 and stopped to enjoy my sandwich, drink some water and enjoy the view. The bothy seemed in reasonable condition inside; clean and litter free.
After a 20 minute break I left the bothy and continued to follow what was still an excellent, albeit lonely, track through ever remote country until I reached the ford across the Abhainn Poiblidh at grid reference 320978.
- Track as you head NE from Loch an Daimh towards the crossing of the Abhainn Poiblidh
Got here at 1340, about 55 minutes after leaving Knockdamph Bothy. I checked a short distance upsteam and downstream but could find no dry route that would get me over so it was off with my shoes and socks and roll up my trousers before wading across.
- Abhainn Poiblidh river crossing
I was lucky in that the river level was relatively low but in spate this could be a major obstacle.
Once safely across it's a nice easy walk to the bothy at Duag Bridge which I reached at 1415.
- Path to Duag Schoolhouse Bothy
Happy to report that this bothy appeared to be in excellent condition. Another 20 minute break here to recharge the batteries before heading off on the last stretch.
From here you follow the Strath Mulzie Estate Road to Oykel Bridge. While it's well maintained it's also a bit sore on the feet. Roads may make for easy walking but the surface can be unyielding. Various tracks break off from the main Estate Road but ignore them. Stay on the main road all the way to Oykel Bridge. The River Einig will be below you, over to your left, and the Einig woods all around.
At 1550 (about 1 hour 15 minutes after I left Duag Bridge) I sauntered across the bridge that takes you over the River Einig.
- Bridge over the River Einig
Once across, follow the road round to the right, the River Einig then the River Oykel will be on your right hand side. In a few minutes you will pass a few houses on your right - the settlement of Oykel Bridge - and a few minutes later the road joins the main A837 almost opposite the Oykel Bridge Hotel. At 1600, I entered the hotel, my accommodation for the night.
The hotel is not cheap but I felt it was worth it. Interesting place to stay as the other guests were all Gentlemen from 'Darn Sarf' who were on a Salmon Fishing holiday. It's fair to say they were from a different Socio Economic background to me. That said they were pleasant enough. The hotel owners were very pleasant and helpful. It would appear that most of their guests are Salmon fishermen. Food and accommodation were excellent, I got a great night's sleep. The Hotel also has a drying room which was handy, a TV lounge with access to, inter alia, Sky Sports and, of course, it is fully licensed with its own bar.
Nice place to rest and recuperate after a very pleasant, enjoyable day's walk in the late March sunshine