An Ruadh-stac - Paradise on Earth

[AnnieMacD]

Track_2014-04-18 An Ruadh-stac.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

As Shah Jahan said on seeing the Shalimar gardens of Kashmir, "If there be paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this". Well, maybe I'm being a bit melodramatic, but I do have strong feelings for this hill and its beauty. You can't help but notice it on the way up to Maol Cheann-dearg as it has a much more commanding presence than MCD and I had put it high on my list of Corbetts to visit. I skived off work on Friday which was the perfect day for it.

Lochcarron on the road to Coulags

Target hills on left and right with Maol Chean-dearg in the middle - from Coulags

I'm not crazy for walking on paths so decided to go up Meall nan Ceapairean first as I would not only avoid the path but get a good view of the Munros and Corbetts all around. This was a good decision as I watched the poor people below slogging up the Choire Ghairbh quartzite path while I was walking on spongy, mossy carpet up above.

Looking down on the bothy from the side of Meall nan Ceapairean

On attaining the ridge of Meall nan Ceapairean, you see the white tops of An Ruadh-stac glistening in the sun. The little lochan on the left was a target for the return trip.

An Ruadh-stac looks huge and impossible from the summit of Meall nan Ceapairean - you can see the scree section which, from this angle, looks vertical. I also had formulated a route from various reports and identified Loch Moin' a' Chrathair which I knew I would have to skirt and follow the allt down to get down the cliffs by the waterfalls on Allt Moine a' Chrathair. Photos cannot convey the majesty of this hill - however, I'll let them speak for themselves!

You can see the bit of scree path just to the left of the ridge line above the slabs.

Maol Chean-dearg and the path up to the bealach from Meall nan Ceapairean.

There are some lovely lochans all around

Beinn Damh straight ahead and the path up Maol Chean-dearg on the right.

I dropped down to the Bealach Ruadh-stac and skirted around the picturesque Loch a' Mhadaidh Ruadh. I could have spent the day around here but the hill was still calling. I was determined to give it a try and I could always turn back if it was too intimidating.

The foxy lochans close up (Loch a' Mhadaidh Ruadh).

What a treat walking on the dry quartzite slabs. If I didn't have my heavy pack on I could have run up them! You don't need to worry about a path at this point as you just keep slightly to the left of the ridge and now again you spot a wee cairn which indicates you are on track. Further up I found it easier to keep to the path as the slabs turn to rocks and then a scree section which is fairly steep.

Looking down from the slabs

LochCoire an Ruadh-stac is the biggest of the lochans. You can just see the path going around the base of Maol Chean-dearg. Beinn Alligin is in the distance.

What a spot for lunch. I could see a few people on their way up Meall Chean-dearg as I munched my oatcakes. Out of the wind it was a scorcher of a day. There was absolutely nowhere else on earth I would rather be than half way up An Ruadh-stac!

From further up - you can now see Sgorr Ruadh, Beinn Liath Mhor and Fuar Tholl.

Liathach and Beinn Eighe also make an appearance.

Once the steepness really begins there are a couple of platforms where one can stop and look at the wonders all around. You can scramble as much as you wish but most of the scrambly bits can be bypassed. However, I wanted some experience so made the most of the dry conditions.

Fuar Tholl looking stately. I think that may be Moruisg behind but not sure.

Looking west in the mid-distance we see the trio of (l to r) Glas Bheinn, Creag na h-Iolaire and Sgurr a' Gharaidh - which I had visited a few weeks ago.

Summit. The smaller hill on the right is Beinn na h-Eaglaise.

Beinn Damh looks so close from here - but there's a big drop between the hills!

Looking down towards Ruadh-stac Bheag and Loch a' Mhuillin with Strathcarron and Lochcarron far below.

After spending some time at the summit (it was a bit windy and cold) I headed south to Ruadh Stac Bheag. This descent wasn't too bad and there are bits of path - which I avoided - but it was the climb down from this hill that caused me the most problems. I think I should have taken a more south-westerly line but continued due south and found this route pretty tough. The quartzite rubble had changed to boulders which were pretty unstable - problem was there was no way of knowing they were unstable until stepping on them and this testing was pretty testing - on me! It took me AGES to get down from760 to 570m - or at least it felt like it. Oh, what joy, to get down to heather, peat hags, moss and loads of water!

Looking back up to Ruadh-stac Bheag. It was heaven to get back on the slabs after the quartzite boulders and small rocks on the way down.

I then headed off to the little lochan (Loch Moin a' Chriathair) and headed down to the waterfalls. I stopped here for my afternoon tea - without the tea! My plan was then to go around Creagan Fhir-eoin and drop down directly to the footbridge over the Fionn-abhainn. It was then a straight-forward return to the main road in the evening sunshine.

Heading for Loch Moin' a' Chriathar with Fuar Tholl behind.

An Ruadh-stac across the little lochan.

Looking back down to Coulags after descending by the waterfalls. I was now going around the hill heading for the bridge over Fionn-abhainn.

Just before reaching Coulags on the path, I met a groups of boys from Gordonstoun School who were camping out for two nights. It's a requirement for all their senior kids to do this and they have to carry everything that they will need. They were not allowed to use the bothy and I must say some of them were not happy campers - literally!

One last view for you from my commute home.

Finally, stopped on top of the Bealach road to Applecross - the end to a perfect day.

Paradise indeed.....

[rockhopper]

Just spotted your WR as well - yup, missed you by a day. It was certainly a great weekend - and no need for the winter gear I was carrying Great photos and nice route to take in Ruadh Stac Bheag - cheers

[Johnny Corbett]

Stunning. I got so far up An Ruadh-Stac when doing Meal Chearn Dearg but had to retreat. I'm so tempted to save it for last but not sure i can wait that long.

[Border Reiver]

This is one of my favourite parts of Scotland & it's a while since I've been back, so your report has reminded me of what a beautiful place it is. Amazing weather and great photos.

[Klaasloopt]

Your report does full justice to this wonderful hill. It has a league-of-its-own-ness that attracts me too. It's high on my list, but didn't get the chance this year due to bad weather and well ... a holiday simply too short

[mr_ash_37]

Stunning now added to my to do list!

[BlackPanther]

You had similar conditions to us, when we climbed this Corbett, but in our case it was +30*C " summer scorchio". This is a hill one won't likely forget! I remember we sat on the summit for over an hour, just couldn't bring ourselves to leave...

Great to see the torridonian landscape again

[weaselmaster]

Fantastic hill - we were up there in similar conditions yesterday and enjoyed every minute of it too

[clivegrif]

Beautiful report, and what pictures!

This is on my list for a few weeks time - hope I get a day like you had.

Thanks for posting.

[foggieclimber]

A great set of photos from one of the best Corbetts.

[clivegrif]

As I followed Annie's original route it seemed more fitting to add to this report than write a new one of my own. I wanted to save this mountain for a good day, to capture such fine pictures as you see here. Unfortunately the weather was against me, and I ended up climbing this fine mountain in mist.

Annie's route is a very good one. The initial climb up the slope above the bothy is steep and relentless, but it doesn't last long and once you are on the ridge itself, the walking is fine.

After Meall nan Ceapairean you hit Quartzite, and lots of it. An Ruadh Stac itself is a massive quartzite spire rearing up from the surrounding land. The huge sloping slabs do look intimidating as they rear up into the mist, but what a place. This mountain is steep almost to the last, but the true summit is a couple of bumps away from the top of the slope.

You do have to go over the minor bump of Ruadh Stac Beag to get down from here, otherwise the slopes are just too steep and loose - but even so it is still a steep loose decent.

The march across the boggy flat is wet but quick, and does make a good route out.

Annie's pics are far better than mine, and they certainly show what this fine mountain is all about.

My best pic of the day was this one, a set of falls far below the mountain on the way back to Coulags.

An Ruadh Stac falls by cliveg004, on Flickr

Thanks Annie - it was a great day!

[simon-b]

Superb, Annie. I climbed Maol Chean-dearg today, and saw for the first time what a magnificent mountain An Ruadh-stac is. Well done for getting up there, although you make it sound less intimidating than it looks.

[AnnieMacD]

Clive, that is a stunning photo of the waterfall. Did you have a tripod with you???

I think it was a good route too so glad you enjoyed it. How did you find the descent from Ruadh Stac Beag? That was the most trying part of the day for me.

Simon, believe me, it's far less intimidating than it looks. I thought it looked impossible from below and actually really enjoyed it - much more fun than going up MCD in my opinion. And the views are stunning to boot!

[clivegrif]

Clive, that is a stunning photo of the waterfall. Did you have a tripod with you???

I think it was a good route too so glad you enjoyed it. How did you find the descent from Ruadh Stac Beag? That was the most trying part of the day for me.

Hi Annie, I used one of nature's tripods - I put the camera on a big rock!

I know what you mean about the descent - it was steep and loose, and some of the rocks that decided to go were pretty big. It was a bit of a relief to reach the flatter ground at the bottom.

But all in all, a really good route on a cracking mountain.

Best wishes