Loch Carron Easter
Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:32 pmLast summer, whilst holidaying in Kintail, I caught sight of an impossibly pointy pyramid of a mountain up to the north. A check of the map revealed this to be Bidean a'Choire Sheasgaigh, remote and definately one of the "awkward squad" of Munros. So with a few days off at Easter and a forecast for sun, sun, sun, Loch Carron seemed the obvious place to go for a multi-day trip. I'd looked at various ways to do these hills and ended up using a route from Steven Fallon's site - though we decided to do it over 3 days, not the one day he does it in
Drove up on Thursday night, intending to use our usual wild campspot on the shores of Loch Cluanie - to find that the spot was under about 10 feet of water... OK, the levels in the loch have risen with snowmelt - plan B called for. Up to the site at Shiel Bridge instead, which did provide the added advantages of toilets and showers. A surprisingly frosty night, woke up to a layer of ice on the tent. Beautiful morning though, and the sun soon chased away any lingering frost as we headed up to Loch Carron. Reached the parking spot at Craig around 8am to find a few cars already there - including Mrs Huff-n-Puff who came over to say hello. It was to be a weekend for meeting (and also narrowly missing) lots of WalkHighlanders. Got the big packs loaded up and set off across the road and train line and through the forest trail, lots of hydro works going on around the path. A gentle incline then round to the south, following the course of the river, past the water vole colony. I hadn't really worked out the geography of where we were going and we walked right past the cairn-marked cut off for the wire bridge so after walking into Pollan Bhuidhe we had to retrace our steps. The "bridge" could do with some tensioning as the wires really separate when crossing on it - i managed to fall off halfway across, fortunately the mighty river was only ankle deep 
Sick Kid managed a dry crossing. Then it was heading up the stony path towards Bealach Bhearnais. This was lovely, heather and grasses, warm sun, mountains all around.Morning at Shiel Bridge
P1000926 by 23weasels, on FlickrRiver Carron
P1000929 by 23weasels, on FlickrWalking down the track to Pollan Bhuidhe
P1000931 by 23weasels, on FlickrYou've been warned!!
P1000932 by 23weasels, on FlickrWire bridge over the "torrent"
P1000934 by 23weasels, on FlickrBealach Bhearnais, Feartaig on R
P1000936 by 23weasels, on FlickrReaching the bealach we dropped our packs and headed up the first hill of the day, Sgurr na Feartaig - well worth the 250m or so from the bealach. A bit bouldery underfoot, but height was gained quickly and the views at the top were breathtaking - there, resplendant, lay the Torridon and Fisherfield hills - a bit hazy but beautiful. And not much snow either. Looking back east there was a great view over the twisting back of Beinn Tarsuinn to Cheesecake and Lurg Mhor, our destination for the day. back down for a bit of lunch then up onto the shoulder of Tarsuinn. Some snow lingering on in the sheltered gullies, a pleasant walk along the spine to the rockier top. We could see the intimidatingly steep and craggy northern approach to Cheesecake from this direction. Heading west from the top of Tarsuinn, past a little scrambly section we made our way in a generally south-western direction to the col between Tarsuinn & Cheesecake. I didn't really have a route planned for this approach and we ended up choosing the line of least resistance through the crags. This brought up steeply up to a grassy ledge then a steep scree filled gully took us to the 852m point. Hard going with big packs on. After this however, the rest was a piece of (cheese)cake. For such a pointy hill it was an easy jaunt up the crest to the summit. Ahead we could see over to Lurg Mhor, with snow clinging to its northern aspects, and the bealach between where we planned to descend to Loch Monar.
Sgurr Choinnich
P1000940 by 23weasels, on FlickrBeinn Tarsuinn, Cheesecake, Lurg Mhor
P1000951 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit pano, Feartaig
P1000943 by 23weasels, on FlickrSouthern Torridon hills
P1000944 by 23weasels, on FlickrBeinn Eighe, Liathach
P1000946 by 23weasels, on FlickrCheesecake from Tarsuinn
P1000958 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Monar from Tarsuinn
P1000961 by 23weasels, on FlickrVegan Cheesecake
P1000962 by 23weasels, on FlickrCheesecake from the N
P1000966 by 23weasels, on FlickrDodge the crags
P1000971 by 23weasels, on FlickrSteep & stony
P1000975 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1000976 by 23weasels, on FlickrFinal section of Cake
P1000982 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1000983 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1000984 by 23weasels, on FlickrMade it!
P1000988 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1000989 by 23weasels, on FlickrView to Lurg Mhor
P1000990 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe very unpointy Cheesecake from the bealach
P1000992 by 23weasels, on FlickrDescending the southern side of Cheesecake I was struck by how grassy and un-pointy the hill looked from this direction. Had we walked in from Attadale, as had been the original plan, and ascended by this route I think I'd have felt more than a little underwhelmed by the mountain. We picked our descent spot from the bealach and dropped our packs there, meeting another walker and his dog. He had a pair of large binoculars around his neck. I asked if he'd seen much - "one ptarmigan" was his reply. Not much wildlife around here it would seem. We pressed on for Lurg Mhor, relieved to be travelling unburdened, and soon made the summit. Again the views were fantastic. Thought, very briefly, about having some scrambling fun going over to the east top but decided that it had been a long day and the craggy ridge did look a little....jagged, so we about turned and retrieved our packs. Heading down from the bealach was initially steep on slippy grass, but soon levelled out into gentler, more boggy terrain. We headed over to the left, crossing various tributaries of the streams that ran to Loch Monar until we ended up near the head of the Loch. Finding a relatively dry spot we set up camp for the night, giving a wary eye to the relentlessly steep grassy slopes of Sgurr na Conbhaire that awaited us in the morning. A solitary deer, further up the loch, looks up from her drink to give us the once-over, decides we aren't a threat and takes her time at the lochside. Unpacking our stuff in the tent, I discovered that what I thought were two full small gas cannisters were actually 1 half full and 1 virtually empty gas cannisters. Hmm - not a lot of opportunity for replenishment out here! This meant that gas would have to be conserved miserly - no coffee for us, just make sure enough for 2 morings of porridge and 1 night of noodles. I took a plastic bottle of water into the sleeping bag so that it would be warmer in the morning and save gas - fortunately didn't squash it open during the night
Summit Lurg Mhor, east ridge in sight
P1000995 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1000996 by 23weasels, on FlickrChoinnich & Charochainn
P1010002 by 23weasels, on FlickrDescent from the bealach
P1010004 by 23weasels, on FlickrCloud over LM
P1010006 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010008 by 23weasels, on FlickrDown to Loch Monar
P1010010 by 23weasels, on FlickrView back up to LM
P1010013 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010016 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010017 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe river burbled and gushed through the night, sounding at times like a muffled public address system in an echoing railway station. Sleep was fitful. Another bright sunny morning - I was relieved that the nearly empty gas can provided us with breakfast. Packed up and prepared for the assault on SnC - this would eb our main bit of height gaining in the day, which helped a little, but it was a steep tiring pull with the heavy packs on. For most of it I plodded along behind Allison, but for the last couple of hundred metres I decided to accelerate a bit. Reached a flatter grassy area not that far from the top and sat, munching trail mix and looking at the perfectly still waters of Loch Monar reflecting the clouds. Meanwhile, Allison was having her own adventure, as she'd slipped on a particularly steep and unstable section of mossy grass and started to slide down the hill, aided by her big rucksack. Fortunately she was able to use her poles to self arrest. I can't see any of this of course and thought she was taking an inordinately long time to appear, when she comes up into view looking somewhat shaken. "I nearly died back there" she says...hmm - some trail mix? have a seat...you're ok now (except for a grazed elbow and some bruises). After regaining her equanimity we set off to the top of SnC and looked at the ridge along to Sgurr Coinnich, snow cladding the eastern flanks. Another pleasant and more gentle ascent to the top of the eastern shoulder then along to the summit. Still some sizeable cornicing on the north side of this mountain.
Our after breakfast amble...
P1010020 by 23weasels, on FlickrMirror calm Loch Monar
P1010030 by 23weasels, on FlickrCheesecake & LM
P1010029 by 23weasels, on FlickrRidge to Sgurr Choinnich
P1010034 by 23weasels, on FlickrView back south
P1010037 by 23weasels, on FlickrCheesecake from Choinnich
P1010040 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit Choinnich
P1010041 by 23weasels, on FlickrView to Moruisg
P1010046 by 23weasels, on FlickrOver we go to the col between Coinnich and Chaorainn, stopping behind a rock for some lunch. We meet another walker who stops and chats for a while, we find we've done many routes in common. He heads off for the top of Chaorainn, intending to head for the eastern top, while our path will take us down the north shoulder. It's an easy enough pull up to the top where agin great views await us - down into Pollan Bhuidhe,over to Moruisg and beyond. We set off down the north slopes towards Coire an Lochain Ghaineamhaigh. Still a bit of snow to cross, which provides a couple of wet bumslides. The lochan is half covered in ice still, the walls of the coire beyond dark and foreboding and the gush of waterfalls from the melting snow above loud in our ears. We follow the river over to Drochaid Mhuilich, meeting several walkers who've camped in the valley below.
Up to Sgurr aChaorachain
P1010050 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit SaC
P1010056 by 23weasels, on FlickrNorthern shoulder of SaC
P1010062 by 23weasels, on FlickrIcy lochan
P1010065 by 23weasels, on FlickrEast top of SaC
P1010072 by 23weasels, on FlickrTowards Maoile Lunndaidh
P1010074 by 23weasels, on FlickrMore grassy slopes up to Carn nam Fiaclan, we can see another couple of walkers ahead of us, who've stopped on a large rock - the sound of laughter as we approach and find it's Seana & Dougie. We have a bit of a rest and natter, then head off across the flat mossy terrain for the top of Maoile Lunndaidh. The summit may not be impressive in itself, but the views all around certainly are - to the south the whole of Loch Monar stretches away, the buildings of east monar lodge twinkling in the sunshine, the walls of Bidean an Eoin Dearg snow topped and sheer, the fascinating lochans and bumpy bit in the coire of Fuar-Tholl Mor. It's about 4.30 in the afternoon, the sun is still blazing in the sky and there's not a puff of wind. Our plan had been to drop down to Coire Beithe and pitch for the night, but I decide that it's perfect up here for a high camp. We say farewell to Basscadet & Leithy who are returning to where they've left their tent down to the west and find a suitable spot to pitch in the mossy ground over to the south of the cairn. I just lie on my back, looking down to Loch Monar and watching the cloud shapes drift by, enjoying this perfectly peaceful place. After food, we wander about the summit plateau for a bit as the sun starts to set. The hills to the east are touched with delicate pinks whilst the Torridon hills have the sun setting behind them and are lit by oranges and purples. It's a stunning evening, though getting a little chilly as the sun disappears and we retreat into the warmth of the sleeping bags.
BC & Leithy
P1010075 by 23weasels, on FlickrEast top again
P1010076 by 23weasels, on FlickrSgurr nan Ceamreathahan
P1010077 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Monar
P1010080 by 23weasels, on FlickrTop, ML
P1010082 by 23weasels, on FlickrRelaxing
P1010089 by 23weasels, on FlickrFhuar Tholl Mor
P1010105 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking East
P1010095 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking South
P1010100 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking West
P1010096 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010098 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010103 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010104 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010106 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010108 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010110 by 23weasels, on FlickrNext morning - Easter Sunday - we awake early and gaze out of the tent door at another perfect morning. No clouds in the sky, a rosy haze and the moon still sitting high and proud over the snow topped hills below. There's still quite a bit of snow on the north faces of the Affric and Kintail hills. I see Sgurr nan Ceathreamhan sitting proud in the near distance - that will hopefully be our compleation hill. We sit eating porridge, looking out over this array of tops and thinking life doesn't get much better than this. I really need to do high camps more often! We reluctantly pack up and start to head down the north side of Lunndaidh. It's only 7.30 but already the sun is warm on our backs. Following the course of the river, past an impressive gorge with a few hardy trees lining the sides and waterfalls in profusion. We can see the zigzags going up Moruisg across the valley and decide to make for the ruins on the other side of the river, following a track marked on the map over the peat hags. The track is a virtual one I can assure you! It does lead, however, to a place where it's easy to cross on stepping stones and we rest up for a bit on the other side, marvelling at the view back across the valley. It is now seriously hot - we did not come equipped for this amount of sunshine...no suncream, no hat (which is why I've taken to wearing my buff as a kind of pirate's headgear to protect my bald head from any more sun battering), and whilst I'm a fan of Rab Vapour-rise Guide pants, they are not made for hot days, even with the vents open. I change into my lightest top but am still boiling and reckon there's nothing else for it - the trousers are coming off. If walking in underpants is good enough for Hamish Brown, then it's good enough for me! Fortunately there's no-one else around at this point to witness the undressedness and the cool relief is well worth it.
Morning view from tent
P1010114 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010112 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010117 by 23weasels, on FlickrView NE
P1010119 by 23weasels, on FlickrPerfect pitch
P1010123 by 23weasels, on FlickrDown to the valley
P1010130 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010133 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010134 by 23weasels, on FlickrView S from the river crossing
P1010139 by 23weasels, on FlickrViewers of a nervous disposition may wish to skip this one...
P1010141 by 23weasels, on FlickrView up Pollan Bhuidhe to Bealach Bhearnais
P1010143 by 23weasels, on FlickrWe make our way up the extensive zigzags up Moruisg - these really take the strain out of the ascent. We get to the flattish area around 770m, then cross boggy wet ground in a NW direction making for the top of Moruisg. A large herd of deer are encamped by the riverside and make off as we approach, heading round for higher ground behind us and observing every move we make in an extended line of watchfulness. We make the southern cairn and again are smitten by the views - Beinn Eighe sprawls vast and silvery white, Liathach glowers with the pyramidal peak of Spidean a Choire Leith picked out in snow. There are some other walkers over at the northern cairn and we venture over to say hello. Time for some grub then it's back on with the trousers as the wind has got up a bit and down to the Shopkeepers' Hill. This is a far more impressive moountain than Moruisg, for all its demotion, and I celebrate my 50th Corbett as we reach the top. The two guys from Moruisg are sprawled at the top and we join them in removing our boots and generally unwinding. They're also approaching the last 30 or so Munros and talk turns to strategies for Fisherfield, which we can see over to our right. Oh for another long weekend of sunshine like this one to tackle them... We're joined by another WH member, Bob The Dog and his accompanying humans. After a while it's time to set off down the southern slopes of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean to pick up the zigzags. I'm not sure it's really necessary to follow these in descent, but we're in no hurry whatsoever and at least it's a path. Off with the trousers again here, as the heat builds. We pass a colourful cluster of wee tents in Pollan Bhuidhe as we hit the track again, then it's a pleasant, if hot, return journey along the track. Very glad we filled the water bladders at one of the inviting streams coming down SnC as it is not a day to go thirsty. We stop at the bridge over the River Carron and plunge our toasted feet into the cold clear water - bliss
Then back to the car park, where we meet yet another WH poster Whiteburn who was out to get some Corbetts and had a minute pack on which was going to last him for 3 days. Tarp and Bivvy, nothing you don't need...I envied him his hardiness - need to work a bit on getting our own pack sizes down, but maybe not quite to that extent!Flat top of Moruisg
P1010144 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit
P1010146 by 23weasels, on FlickrYum!
P1010148 by 23weasels, on FlickrLiathach zoomed
P1010156 by 23weasels, on FlickrHeading for Sgurr nan Ceannachean
P1010157 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010158 by 23weasels, on FlickrCorbett number 50
P1010161 by 23weasels, on FlickrBob the Dog & Hazel
P1010163 by 23weasels, on FlickrCheesecake peeping out
P1010165 by 23weasels, on FlickrSouth Torridon Hills
P1010168 by 23weasels, on FlickrStats - well the time & distance are wrong, but the ascent's correct
P1010169 by 23weasels, on FlickrWe had another day to make use of before heading home. Originally I'd planned to do some "catch up" hills down in Glen Shiel for the 'Kid, but the landscape was so glorious here that it seemed a shame to go anywhere else. Three possible south Torridon tops sat right beside us - we could either go for Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Rhuadh, which would bring up my 250, but make for a longish day, or Maol Chean Dearg and An Ruadh Stac. The latter being decided upon, we set off for Loch Carron in search of some food or maybe even some gas
Arriving at 5.30 the white painted shops and houses shimmering in the heat we walked along the front to the "gold star award winning" village shop - which shut 2 hours earlier 
So it was into the hotel for a bit of light refreshment. Had wondered about going to the Wee Campsite, apparently in Loch Carron, but couldn't find it and ended up driving back to Coulags and setting up tent a little way along the public right of way. We were somewhat wary of this, Ledgowan Estate attitudes to walkers being well known, but we were not troubled and of course left no trace of our overnight existance. Did see the farmer coming out to exercise his pack of 8 border collies on the hillside - god if only I could get up the side of a hill that quick A peaceful, if chilly night was spent and we awoke to yet another sun-studded day on Monday.
Loch Carron
P1010170 by 23weasels, on FlickrCampsite near Coulags
P1010175 by 23weasels, on FlickrTomorrow's hills
P1010177 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010179 by 23weasels, on FlickrPacked up and back to the car to change heavy pack for day sack - oh the relief - felt like carrying nothing on the shoulders after the last 3 days. Got set off along the path, across the river on a bridge this time, past the bothy (where we later discovered Trekker53 had been residing), past the pointy finger rock of Finn McCool and turn sharp westward up to Bealach a'Choire Ghairb. As usual I was having difficulty in working out what mountain was what - MCD was easy enough, but I initially mistook the 757m top of MCD for An Ruadh Stac - a mistake soon rectified when the impressive mountain that was indeed ARS appeared over the horizon. Looked a little bit challenging, that one! Anyway, for now it was picking our way over the white quartzite rubble on the initial section of MCD before getting to the grassier part. A brief bit of boulderhopping took us up to the cairn in just under 2 and a half hours. Looking across to Torridon village and the sweep of Loch Torridon, hemmed in on the north by the majesty of Liathach brought back great memories of last autumn's time up there. We followed our path back to the bealach where the wind had really whipped up. I had been feeling apprehensive about heading up ARS already, without having to battle against a strong wind, so we say in a semi-sheltered spot for lunch to think what to do. We spied a couple of walkers up near the top, returning, and that clinched it, they didn't seem to be struggling with the wind too much (as far as it's possible to tell if a couple of specks are struggling or not). My map told me it was a mere 300m from the bealach to the top, but it looked more than that as we peered up at the stony sides from the bottom. Oh well, here goes...
Morning track
P1010184 by 23weasels, on FlickrBothy
P1010185 by 23weasels, on FlickrTowards MCD
P1010188 by 23weasels, on FlickrSgorr Rhuadh & Fhuar Tholl
P1010189 by 23weasels, on FlickrAn Ruadh Stac from the bealach
P1010194 by 23weasels, on FlickrMCD
P1010195 by 23weasels, on FlickrNearing top MCD, ARS in backdrop
P1010200 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit MCD
P1010201 by 23weasels, on FlickrTorridon village
P1010205 by 23weasels, on FlickrLiathach
P1010206 by 23weasels, on FlickrBeinn Damh
P1010209 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe first section was over slabs of good rock - though I'd imagine in wet or icy conditions this would be a different matter, Then came some simple but exilharating scrambling, nothing remotely challenging, just loose scree to watch out for. We met the couple we'd seen earlier on the descent - they recommended the grassy route round to the south, but we were having plenty of fun with the boulders, and it was with some disappointment that we got near the top and realised the fun was over - it's not often i find myself wanting an ascent to keep on going but this was one of those times. Absolutely cracking mountain, and again we were rewarded with spectacular views, particularly of Beinn Damh which looked elegant and exciting. Oh for another few days of this weather up here! However, it was time to return, so we picked our way carefully down the scree. Went on the path alongside the lochan on our way back to the bealach and did consider some more scrambling fun up the crags there but SK's knees and hips were hurting so we made a bee-line for the return path, stopping in at the bothy for a wee nosey on the way. What a fine place, particularly liked the wood panelled upper rooms. Back at the car for 4ish and the joy of a drive in the sunshine back through Kintail, Ft William and Glencoe in prospect. Stopped off at the Cluanie for a meal, where we were playfully chastised for having left it so long since we were last there, and for dessert the glory of the Ben, White Corries, Bidean etc in late sunshine and snow. A marvellous weekend in a spectacular part of the country. Wow!!
MCD from ARS
P1010210 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010211 by 23weasels, on FlickrBeinn Damh
P1010213 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010214 by 23weasels, on FlickrView from top
P1010216 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1010219 by 23weasels, on FlickrClouds on Liathach
P1010220 by 23weasels, on FlickrBack down
P1010221 by 23weasels, on FlickrInside the bothy
P1010223 by 23weasels, on FlickrStats
P1010224 by 23weasels, on Flickr
