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We awoke to a glorious morning and sumptuous breakfast at our B&B in Lochcarron. Having got ourselves and stuff together we made the short journey to Achnashellach; this time the car park was almost empty. By 9:30 we were walking; not quite as spritely as the previous day, but walking nonetheless. It was warm even now and there was little or no breeze. Fuar Tholl quickly hove into view so time for one more pic from this spot in the woods – just for the record.
- Walking in to Coire Lair - not for the first time!
By the time we made it to the ford through River Lair breakfast had reached out legs and we seemed to have more energy than when we started. No self-doubt this time as I forded the river easily; couldn’t quite see what the problem was last time other than the river was a foot higher, the rocks were wet and I wasn’t in the mood for becoming part of the river bed.
Neill was now finding it hot so stops became more frequent, nevertheless he had the energy to point out the fine erratics – that’s rocks left behind higgledy-piggledy after the last ice age to those of us who didn’t do [Physical] Geography at A Level – or simply can’t remember.
- Nev trying to look intrepid
- Sgorr Ruadh
- The view up Coire Lair
At one point a guy came up running past us; actually sprinting might have been a closer description. Shorts, no top, bum bag and running shoes. Neill commented, “I feel like bloody well giving up!” The guy saw the funny side and laughed, sprinting on over our horizon he was out of sight in seconds. The path to Bealach Mor is excellent, at an easy gradient, so we reached the top in good time.
- Looking across to Maol Chean-dearg and An Ruadh-Stac
Finding a ‘path’ from there is more problematic so we do what we always do I times of difficulty; sit down, have a drink and something to eat hoping for divine inspiration. And it came to pass – us again – the same guy coming down this time, but unwittingly he had shown us the way.
We now picked our way between the rock bands and began a rather slow and tortuous ascent of the last 350m. It wasn’t that bad, just very warm and the exertions of yesterday were making themselves felt. Met a pair of ptarmigan on the way who croaked their displeasure; either that or they were commenting on our slow progress.
- Ptarmigan
The views were opening up all the time.
- Fuar Tholl
- Over Raeburn's butress to Beinn Laith Mhor
Eventually made it to the cairn and the views were just stunning in all directions – this is what makes the effort of getting there worthwhile. We could even see the top of the Ben poking above the S Shiel (I think) mountains. What a contrast to last year. I’m not sure how long we spent on the summit, but it was a while; eating, drinking, taking pictures and admiring the amazing scenery.
- Neill on the summit
- Maol Chean-dearg
- Over An Ruadh-Stac to the Cuillin
- Ben Alligin
- Liathach
- Beinn Eighe
- East
- ESE Across Glen Carrron
- Views all the way to the Ben
Neill was not keen on retracing (joke) our footsteps and neither was I so we opted for the longer, but more obvious route via the head of Coire Lair. Descending the NW ridge we met a young guy who had already done Beinn Laith Mhor and was going well.
- Neill waiting whilst I clicked away
- Looking down into Coire Lair
- Strata on Beinn Laith Mhor - couldn't resist
We made it down to the lochan at the top of Coire Lair and began a steady walk out.
- The way back!
Parts of this path had been well-and-truly churned up by bikes of some kind. I say of 'some kind' because the tracks looked more motor-X than mountain bike. I couldn’t help but think this would lead to bad erosion on parts of the path come the next period of heavy rain.
Before too long we reached the cairn where the Coire Lair path joins the one to Loch Coulin. The guy we met earlier on Sgorr Ruadh was making his way down the zig-zags on the other side of the river. Needless to say he caught up with us a little further along. He’d found it slow going coming off Sgorr Ruadh picking his way between the small bands of rock. By now my feet were burning and longing to get out of my boots and somewhere cool. Back at the car I was glad to sit down after walking on hard ground for the past 2½ hours, but it had been memorable day.