First of the Torridon trio of giants - Beinn Eighe

[Graeme D]

This was our first ever visit to Torridon in the summer of 2008 and it well and truly hooked us! We had driven up from Perth after Debbie had finished work on the Friday and stayed at the midge-infested bunkhouse at the Ledgowan in Achnasheen, before spending most of the weekend over at Applecross, including the Saturday night in one of the jazzy new wooden huts on the campsite there (even more midge infested than the Ledgowan!)

On the Sunday we had headed to the Kinlochewe Hotel for a couple of nights (but only after Debbie’s boots had given up the ghost and necessitated a quick detour to Craigdon in Inverness to purchase replacements ahead of the serious walking on the Monday and Tuesday).

Monday turned out to be a fairly miserable day weather-wise on Slioch but we awoke to a much finer outlook on the Tuesday and headed the short distance along the road to Beinn Eighe.

We parked in the parking area just east of the Lochan an Iasgair and headed up the solidly made path below the eastern prow of Liathach into Coire Dubh Mor and between a serious of little lochans and the huge bulk of Sail Mor to our right. As the path curves eastwards and climbs steadily behind Sail Mor, the desolate wilderness to the north opens up in all its glory and from the lip of Coire Mhic Fearchair, the view north towards Beinn an Eoin and Beinn a Chearchaill is one of true isolation and remoteness.

Beinn an Eoin and Beinn a Chearchaill from just below Coire Mhic Fearchair

Outflow pouring out of Coire Mhic Fearchair

Once into the bowl of Coire Mhic Fearchair itself, the scene is even more breathtaking. The huge Triple Buttress looms over the lochan, the whole thing resembling a vast mountain amphitheatre. After a first lunch break by the edge of the water, as well as taking the opportunity to throw some stones into the lochan to divert Lucy’s attention away from our lunch, we pick our way around the east shore of the lochan and begin to scramble through the boulder fields on the far side before tackling what looks like the devil’s own scree slope!

Triple Buttress. Route out up the scree chute to the left.

Keeping Lucy occupied

Posing with the Triple Buttress

Almost out of the bowl and onto the ridge

Back down the scree slope

Once onto the ridge, the wind immediately batters us and we duck down the far side and behind a rock for some shelter while we get our breath back and have a second lunch. Once rested and refuelled, it’s a steady and straightforward haul up the ridge to the windblown summit of Ruadh Stac Mor, the first Munro summit of the day.

Debbie at summit of Ruadh Stac Mor

Meall a' Ghiubhais from Ruadh Stac Mor

Back to the bealach and then east along the craggy and winding ridge towards the compact little rocky summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach. This is a very airy little perch with fantastic views further along the ridge and across Coire Dubh to the massive bulk of Liathach.

Liathach from ridge approaching Spidean Coire nan Clach

Lucy takes a break at summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach

Debbie at summit, Sail Mor and Ruadh Stac Mor in background

Ruadh Stac Beag and Meall a' Ghiubhais, with Loch Maree and Slioch in distance

From here it is back a few hundred metres to the trig point and down the rough path into Coire an Laoigh and back down to the road in Glen Torridon.

A resident of Coire an Laoigh

our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

[fingeez]

Hey Greame nice report there.

Love the pic of Liathach from the ridge, looks like its begging to be scaled. the last one is brill aswell, bit of posing for the camera haha

My first visit was to Torridon was last august after i passed my driving test and decided on a trip up the west coast, didnt do any walking at the time though. It was stunning though apart from the pouring rain. Will def have to get up that way again and see to some of those mountains.

Nice to see another perthite on the site aswell

Ross

[foggieclimber]

Cracking report.
Very jealous as I did Beinn Eighe in mist and couldnt even see the triple buttress.
At the top of my list of Munros to do again.
Cheers

[Alan S]

Great report and pictures again graeme,i fancy a trip to torridon this year and these 2 would be first on the list.

Cheers
alan

[mountain coward]

Yeah, nice to see what it looks like - even though I've done it already! Never saw a thing (except of course, Richard up-ending himself in the corrie on the descent! (as per my report way back))

I take it you didn't go up the scree schute? Your pic shows you picking your way up some rocky bit...

[gaffr]

Always a pleasure to view an image or two of the triple buttress coire, an amphetheatre not to be missed....the entrance through the coire and up the chute gives fine access, beside the grand cliffs with an Eastern theme, to the two summits. Continueing along the ridge towards L Maree takes you further away from your transport....something for the longer days!

[billgerrie]

I'd forgotten about the midgies.
We were up in November, no midges.
Does anyone know when they call it a day for the season?
Were all your accomodation dog friendly?
Bill

[Graeme D]

I take it you didn't go up the scree schute? Your pic shows you picking your way up some rocky bit...

Hi MC - it was all scree chute lower down in the coire, but managed to get ourselves over onto a more solid rocky bit a little further up.

Were all your accomodation dog friendly?
Bill

Bill, the Applecross campsite were happy with the dog being there, even in the wooden chalet thingy. Kinlochewe Hotel had one room which they were happy with a dog being in because it had direct access out into the carpark at the rear through a little porch. Only non-dog friendly accommodation on that trip was the bunkhouse at the Ledgowan, but Lucy still managed to find her way in somehow during the night!

[billgerrie]

Thanks .
We stayed in the the Stalkers cottage at Torridon, which was really handy for all three Giants.
You definately need a week up there to get some good weather.

[mountain coward]

How much was the Kinlochewe Hotel Graeme? We usually stay at Ledgowan (me the bunkhouse, but if Richard's on the trip, has to be the hotel - very expensive - as well as being very beautiful!)...

[Graeme D]

How much was the Kinlochewe Hotel Graeme? We usually stay at Ledgowan (me the bunkhouse, but if Richard's on the trip, has to be the hotel - very expensive - as well as being very beautiful!)...

Can't actually remember MC! Check out their website. It was their cheapest room, I remember that, because it was out the back with a slightly shoddy looking porch on the side, which was why we wanted it - for the dog. I think the couple who run it had only quite recently taken it over and were still trying to build the business up. Last August we stayed in Kinlochewe again but this time in the chalets directly behind the hotel. Wouldn't stay there again - very run down and neglected feel about the place. We ate several nights in the hotel bar - very popular, always had to book a table, nice food/ale and atmosphere. Could clearly see as well that the hotel had put a shiny new porch on the back room too.

The hotel also has a bunkhouse but it is pretty grim what what I remember (quick squint in the first time we were up there) and I don't really think it's a major priority for the owners.