Lingering on Beinn Sgritheall

[Emmanuelle]

Barring bad weather or an unexpected call to attend to a sociological emergency , I was not planning to rush this walk. I was lucky: I was in Arnisdale early after enjoying a superb drive from Glen Shiel (with only a cow as obstacle)

Don't mind me

and I was ready to walk by 8.40am. The sun was shining, Loch Hourn was glistening, there was a wee nip in the air but in a good way. No wind. Perfect walking conditions. I put on my earphones to listen to a podcast of the Public Philosopher (BBC R4) which, appropriately given current affairs (local elections in England and the EU parliamentary elections), was on voting. The start of the walk is very easy to find if you can read large letters, as there is a large sign saying Beinn Sgritheall to the right of a lovely stone cottage. You can't miss it.

I followed the route and started the reasonably steep and correspondingly strenuous climb up the glen. Listening to the programme, which was actually most illuminating, took some of the edge off the strain and by the time it was finished the path had eased somewhat where the glen narrows into a mini gully. Then the hard climb towards the bealach started again, soothed by the coo-cooing of the cuckoo. The path petered out but there was no real difficulty making my way up towards the more rocky approach to the 906m top. I landed west of the bealach, wandered over to the edge of the hillside to look over to the other side just to see what was what. When the weather is nice and clear and the mountain easy to read, it's nice to be able to take liberties a bit. Meanwhile, behind me Knoydart and in particular Ladhar Bheinn stood proud, no doubt waiting for me to take lots of nice pictures.

I resumed the hard graft and sure enough the going got quite airy and I had the pleasure of doing some very mild scrambling over rocks and up patches of heath and then found a path of sorts which led me to the 906m top. I felt very gratified - it wasn't lunchtime yet! Then I looked east and noticed the mist rolling westward, soon enveloping Knoydart to the south, Loch Hourn at my feet, the Glen Shiel hills to the north, Kyle Rhea on Skye, everything! No view, nothing... And I hadn't taken a single picture.

Misty mountain top

Swirling mist

Stoically (ahem) I ambled easily and leisurely to the summit of the Beinn, thinking, with my fingers metaphorically crossed, that the mist would soon blow over and that in no time the views would return. After all, the route description did advise lingering... It was only 11.30am by the time I reached the summit (yes there is a tumbled down trig pillar but also a couple of stone shelters, perfect for sitting on to catch the sun in whichever direction it happens to be!) and I was ravenous! So I did some lingering- which meant I ate most of my food... Occasionally the mist would break up towards Skye and Glen Shiel but the views over Knoydart were decidedly closed to me. I watched a crow fly to the summit to inspect my encampment, no doubt hoping for some crumbs. It circled briefly and flew away again, wings whirring, on finding nothing of substance (I was very hungry indeed).

The summit

After about an hour, with a heavy heart I decided to start the descent west towards the lochan. It's quite steep at that point but a pleasant climb down and, about 30m off the summit I suddenly noticed a thinning of the mist and over the course of a few minutes, the curtains parted, like light gauze in the breeze, the resolution getting sharper and sharper and there was nothing for it! I sat down, waiting for the full panorama to return to me, as I knew it would. I spend a good half hour taking photos, Facebooking my friends, feeling happy and vindicated. There was no need to nip back up to the summit. My vantage point was perfect, comfy and afforded me the most fantastic vista, from the hills to the east, Ben Nevis, Knoydart, Rum and Eigg and behind me Skye.

The evidence:

A break in the mist

Ladhar Bheinn, clearing up

Loch Hourn

The Caribbean...

Ladhar Bheinn, completely clear

Looking back at the summit

Eigg

Rum

Looking south east, Ben Nevis

Eventually I resumed the descent. Shortly I met a party of four people. We stopped to exchange pleasantries and information. They had made heavy weather of the start of their walk, looking for a path through the woods and finding none. The chap only had 25 to complete his second tour of duty... I urged them on their way to catch the beautiful views and they told me to turn left at the lochan. Once there, I sat for another rest and contemplated a wee pile of stones which seemed to mark the start of the final descent. So after taking more photos and eating some chocolate, I headed down.

The wee lochan on the left

I knew the going might be tough - steep and lots of undergrowth to impede steady and smooth progress. There were indeed a couple of clumsy sections - a slidy bit on dried grass, clambering over and under low shrubs, but otherwise a walk down mature mixed woodlands with a really remarkable variety of wild flowers (which I had already noticed on Knoydart 10 years ago), un-munched by sheep. I saw at least three types of orchids, potentilla, bog myrtle, Common butterwort, thrift, hyacinths, primroses, the odd dandelion.

There was no wind, the sun was shining brightly and despite the semi-shade of the woods, I felt really hot. It was very steep, albeit not in a relentless sort of way, and I reached the road with regret as I had found the variety of terrain, flora and landscape most enjoyable. The 3km back to Arnisdale was covered swiftly and I could admire the mix of rowans, oaks and birches, the calm waters of Loch Hourn in the quiet of the afternoon. I also gazed up towards Beinn Sgritheall with quiet satisfaction.

Eventually I reached the top of the road overlooking Arnisdale, watching a small fishing boat chugging back to the bay. I caught sight of three deer grazing in the shelter of the rocky promountary which protects the western hook of the bay. I soon reached the village itself and there, right above the steep glen from which I had started my ascent that morning I picked up a large bird of prey circling in the thermals and its lovely warm colour and large wingspan told me it was a golden eagle, a first ever sighting for me. House martins were darting about from pillars to posts. I found my car and as it was so early still and warm, I took a stroll along the road that hemmed the bay, through the village to the last house, hoping for an ice cream van (!).

The road to Arnisdale...

I really do recommend Arnisdale. There is nothing there - no shop, no pub, but priceless views and lovely cottages. I'm quite certain that in winter when the storms whip in from the North Atlantic it is quite grim, but in the warm May sunshine it's incomparably beautiful and peaceful.

On the drive back towards Glenelg (only one pub), I suddently saw the Cuillin from a rise in the road. I took a detour to the jetty from which the small community-run ferry to Kile Rhea on Skye plies its trade and just there, 30m in the sound caught sight of a seal, diving, surfacing, slinking back into the dark water.

Would you look at them Cuillin

Just above the mam Ratagan I also got some cracking views of the Five Sisters of Kintail and the western spurs of Beinn Attow behind.

The Western end of the Five Sisters and Loch Duich

This was my 231st Munro, and a very memorable one. How I am glad I lingered. My optimism didn't slide into wrongheadedness for once!

[Fife Flyer]

Great descriptive report with some superb photo's

Just had a look at my map to see where you were, yet another long drive, but does look like a stunning location

[Emmanuelle]

It's worth the drive! The drive from Ratagan is superb with heart-stopping views and sporty driving, which I know you'll enjoy

You can stay at the Youth Hostel (very friendly place) or if you feel flush the Kintail Lodge Hotel. Both offer great views over Loch Duich.

[PeteR]

Quite possibly one of my favourite hills is Beinn Sgritheall Darn steep in places, but simply superb

[AnnieMacD]

Fantastic report and pictures, Emmanuelle. I too listen to the public philosopher - a good choice for steep climbs as he really makes one think. It's great to pick up your enthusiasm for this hill and area! It's very high on my list and I'm in training for it - will definitely leave it for a good day.