We drove over to Mallaig and after sorting out a boat for the next day we set up our tents at Back of Keppoch and stoked up the calories at The Arisaig Hotel.
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view from the campsite
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Rhum from the campsite
Next morning we weren't due to get the boat till a rather late 10.30 but it was the best we could manage. The weather wasn't as good as I'd hoped but we had cast the dice and were committed now so we set off up Loch Nevis. The party consisted of myself, my wife, my son and our dog.
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Going up Loch Nevis approaching Kylesknoydart
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Sgurr na Ciche (zoom)
We had been told the boat could not land at Camusrory pier as it was private so they would have to drop us off on some rocks. It was a little bit of a scramble but not a problem if you had faith in the adhesive abilities of limpets - the key is to put your weight on gradually so you don't take them by surprise. What was a bit more of a problem - laden as we were with camping gear and food - was that the rocks were tidal. The good news was that the tide was out; the bad news was that we had to negotiate a number of little ravines full of smelly seaweed.
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Landing on An Corr-eilean
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Marooned!
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Sgurr na Ciche again
After that a very rough path took us to Camusrory pier where we picked up a land rover track to Camusrory itself. We then headed inland up a better track to Carnoch and the 'bridge'. We pitched camp here and had a bite to eat.
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Ben Aden
It was therefore 1pm before we set off on our walk but still with a good 10 hours of daylight ahead. With lighter packs we crossed the bridge and set off across what Tim (a Lord of the Rings fan) called the Dead Marshes - not too bad but it was hard to go in a straight line. The tide was out so we were able to get to Sourlies bothy the easy way via the beach. We really were doing this from sea level.
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Crossing the dead marrshes
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Nice rocks on the beach
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Sourlies bothy
From the bothy we headed up the track to Glen Dessary. By 2pm we were at an impressive 6 metres above sea level but then we started climbing. On this side the track is well constructed and makes height easily in a series of zigzags, passing a couple of impressive waterfalls. Higher up a small cairn marked a stalker's track going up into Coire na Ciche. The track was little used but gave good easy going. It dropped a little into the hidden lower coire and crossed to the stream at the back before disappearing. The next kilometre or so was rough and wet with a path of sorts but we finally got a look at the tops. The ground firmed up and became easy again and we followed an ATV track out of the coire. Unfortunately Loch Nevis now disappeared and a wall of black replaced it. We hoped that with an easterly wind it would stay there. No such luck. The wind changed to the west and we got a wetting and were in thick clag. We cut across to the normal route to/from Glen Dessary and climbed the rocky gully. This made for easy routefinding but was absolutely dripping wet. It looked well set in so we were elated to get to the bealach and see views down into Glen Quoich.
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In coire na ciche with the peaks finally in sight
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Loch Quoich from the bealach
The peaks were clearing as we went up Garbh Chioch Mhor . It was slow going because it was rocky and wet but we were soon on top. There was mist coming and going but it made the hills more atmospheric.
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A sleeping dragon
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Sgurr na Ciche
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Loch Quoich
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Looking east from summit of GCM
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summit photo
After returning to the bealach we started the steep climb to Sgurr na Ciche which disappointedly had its head in cloud again. At the top of the steep bit there was a sudden clearing towards Loch Quoich but the summit itself was clagged up and as it was about 7 pm we couldn't hang about.
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Loch Quoich from the shoulder
We started the descent of the west ridge in very poor visibility but got to a dead end that was too dangerous in the wet so we had to go back up. A more southerly line showed more promise but we got to a steep bit the dog could not get down. I had been a bit bothered about this bit so had brought a short rope and the dog had a harness; so we roped her down with little fuss. Sod's law dictated that the summit then cleared and blue skies returned. Well we had had the full experience and were content.
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below the bad step
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Summit starting to clear
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Loch Nevis
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Ben Bhuidhe and Meall Buidhe
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Ben Bhuidhe smoking like a volcano (zoom)
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Looking back up at the 2 peaks
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ditto
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Ben Aden
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Looking down on lower coire na ciche. The stalkers track is just visible going horizontally across the middle of the photo
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more bumpy bits
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Evening sun on Sgurr na Ciche
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back at the bridge
The rest of the descent was not difficult but seemed endless with a lot of annoying little ups. Lower down it got tussocky and although the plan had been to follow the ridge back to the sea we spotted a shortcut back to Carnoch which missed out the dead marshes and we took that. It was a fairly weary party that got back to camp at about 9.30 pm. With no wind and light drizzle it was midge hell until we were in the tents. We slept very well despite the bumpy ground.
The next morning was brilliant - literally. We were woken by bright sunshine which dried off the tents.
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Ben Aden from the camp
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Carnoch in the morning light
As the way out was over a 549 metre bealach and as we were fairly heavily laden we wanted to be away before it got too hot. It was a pleasantly graded path with glorious views and streams for refreshment so it was easier than expected.
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heading up to the bealach
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first sight of Inverie
We left our bags at the bealach to make a quick ascent of Meall Buidhe. This involved a steep climb up through craglets with traces of path now and again. When we got to the skyline there was easy going to the summit which was a glorious viewpoint. It was hard to tear ourselves away except we knew the last boat left Inverie at 5pm.
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looking back to Sgurr na Ciche, Ben Aden and Sgurr Mor
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Luinne Bheinn
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Ladhar Bheinn
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Skye
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Rhum and Eigg
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Looking east from the summit
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looking towards Inverie on the way down to the bealach
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the path to Inverie
So back to the bealach and then down the long but easy angled path to the sea. We made it with 20 mins to spare and treated ourselves to a nice meal in Mallaig.
Equipment notes
Some thoughts:
1 Ruffwear dog harness. This means your dog can actually carry its own food etc and the panniers detach and leave a weight bearing harness. it made all the difference. Mia accepted her burden dogfully. The only problem was when she went swimming.
2 Jetboil stove - I have always used a trangia but this is much lighter and so quick it was a total revelation.
3 Tick Twister - totally effective and indispensible.