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There are two 4 o’clocks in the day. Unfortunately it was at the first one that I left a heartbreakingly bemused Monty Dog at home in Worcester and set off for the North West Highlands. It was mid-afternoon when I finally arrived at the top of the Bealach na Ba. The plan was a quick sprint to the top of Beinn Bhan, and then camp out at the top of the pass to catch the sunset and then the sunrise. Well, that was the plan.
Fortified with a blast of strong black coffee, I set off from the viewpoint car park up the track towards the mast. I left the track after only a few yards to contour round to the left, but soon found that this was not going to be straightforward as the ground was distinctly rough and bouldery. Dodging some craggy outcrops and picking my way through the red sandstone lumps the way led to ridge and the edge of the cliffs that bound Coire nan Arr, with a fine view of the Chioch ridge of Sgurr a’ Chaorachain to the right, and round to the rising lump of Beinn Bhan to the left.
Part way along the ridge are some small lochans, and I was hoping they would provide a decent photo opportunity but I fear they were too far back from the edge.
The head of the Coire nan Arr was surprisingly steep, but a shelf provided a route to safer ground and the Bealach nan Arr. From the Bealach it is a reasonably straightforward trudge of about a mile or so and up a thousand feet to the top of Beinn Bhan.
Sadly the weather was slightly murky, and the outstanding views from the top were a little muted. From here the views across Torridon are sensational, as is the close up view of Beinn Bhan’s Chioch ridge and the Coire na Poite below the summit.
Nothing for it, turn round and reverse the route which is mercifully quicker being downhill! This time I continued along the ridge to the cairn and mast sitting on top of Sgurr a’ Chaorachain’s second summit, surely it must count for something? No but the track makes for easier walking back to the road.
Feeling distinctly weary I settled down for a night in the comfort of my car. The hoped-for sunset didn’t really happen as the clouds were moving in. There was a surprise appearance of some space aliens who clearly use Applecross as a landing site.
A few short hours later dawn arrived, with its stunning view across to Skye.... or not….