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In June 2009 Moira and I climbed Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill but had to make a choice between going on to climb Sgurr Fiona or having food at the Aultguish - and on that occasion French Onion Soup and Sticky Toffee Pudding won! A more altruistic reason was knowing a couple of friends who would probably be keen to come back with us, so we were happy to defer to another day. Then in 2010 Moira broke her ankle while climbing Beinn Mheadhoin and there followed almost two years of recuperation before further surgery to correct an on going problem. So with one thing and another we never got back.
Then last Wednesday we were up Beinn Enaiglair with such compelling views of An Teallach that when MWIS predicted near 100% cloud free summits for NW on Saturday we knew we had to go whether anyone else was free to come or not.
We parked in the layby off the A832 just east of the Dundonnell Hotel, crossed the road, dived into bushes, hopped over a burn on stepping stones and followed the well worn path up behind the two bungalows.
Starting at sea level you have all the work to do yourself for these two!
We intended going up the old path over Meall Garbh but missed the turn to the right (considering how many cairns mark the old path higher up maybe a bit more could be done to mark the point the paths divide?) and ended up on the new path by the Allt a Mhuillin, which was the one we took 5 years ago. It was boggy in places which made me annoyed we weren't up on the ridge, but after returning by Meall Garbh we concluded that for us it was probably an easier ascent going up by the corrie.
Near the top of the corrie I came upon a ptarmigan and her newly hatched chicks, hearing their cheeps before I saw them. The adult immediately went into defensive distraction mode, spreading and flapping her wings as if injured while her tiny fluff balls scooted off in different directions. I got some photos of them but didn't want to stress them by going too close so they aren't all that clear.
Looking back down the corrie (Moira's pic)
Hills north of Ullapool from Sron a' Choire
View west from path leading to col below Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill
Hills of Harris visible in haze
North again
The last time we came we didn't have time to include Fiona so she was our main target for today.
That wow moment when you reach the viewpoint and first see Sgurr Fiona and the Corrag Bhuidhe ridge
Loch Toll an Lochain
From here it's just a short climb to the trig point of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill, but we didn't delay to do that as Sgurr Fiona was looking so intimidatingly steep we wanted to crack on before we lost our nerve!
Bidein a Ghlas Thuill summit 5 years ago. Who's aged more - us or the dogs?
About to take the plunge (Moira's pic)
On our way
The wind was gusting strongly so we decided to use the path away from the corrie edge which rises more gradually over the scree. We found it to be a better path than the one traversing BGT, which was loose and indistinct in places.
Moira climbing Fiona
We were glad we came this way as there was another breath-taking moment when you first see Loch na Sealga and the Fisherfield wilderness to the south. It was a nostalgic moment for me because the last time I saw Loch na Sealga was after walking in from Corrie Hallie to Shenavall Bothy with sons David and Doug, who were then 10 and 8. David hits 40 next month so that's 30 years ago.
Loch na Sealga and Fisherfields
Where we came from on Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill
From the south side various zig zag paths take you up to Fiona's airy summit. That was a fun part of the climb as you can't see the top and then suddenly you're there - with fabulous views all round.
Corrag Buidhe ridge from summit
Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill and Glas Mheall Liath
Vertigo inducing shot of Loch Toll na Lochan from top of Fiona
Moira arriving at summit. The wind was so strong we could hardly stand
There's not much space at the top so it's good that we had it to ourselves. We spent a wee while soaking in the views and feeling very pleased to have finally got here after the 5 year gap. Then we saw a group of young guys bounding over from the Corrag Buidhe ridge so started our descent so the summit wasn't cluttered up with old biddies when they arrived.
The descent
We saw large numbers of goats in three herds with several small kids - all on the upper slopes - the kids skipping about at the col regardless of the long drop into Loch Toll an Lochain below. They seemed unfazed by us and as we made our way back up and over Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill they moved along at our pace (heads down and munching) and we wished we were half as nimble and sure-footed as them.
To vary the return we carried on walking past the cairn at the head of the corrie and headed north then east along the wide ridge leading to Meall Garbh, which was easy walking over grass and flat stones. It was definitely a better route for taking in the views. A couple of deer hinds stood and watched us for a while - much warier than the goats were.
Summer Isles under rain clouds
Gruinard Bay
Deargs from ridge
Fannichs from ridge
Little Loch Broom from Meall Garbh
If there was a path on the ridge we didn't find it until we dropped down before climbing to the rocky top of Meall Garbh, then we saw it. After that you couldn't miss the path as cairns popped up at regular intervals which proved very useful for navigating ourselves down the excellent zig zag path. As we walked down from the ridge a search and rescue helicopter went overhead. At these points I always have to restrain an urge to give a friendly wave - not a good idea! When it came over a second time about half an hour later I said to Moira they must have clocked us and are just checking the old dears are still making progress in the right direction.
We arrived back at the car just as the rain started - perfect timing after a perfect day on this iconic mountain.
