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Last time I was in Rum was 1962. ( Am I that old ? ). We did a bit of rock climbing on Askival and ringed some Manx Shearwaters on Hallival then, so Ainshval was the target for this trip.Disembarked from the ferry at the new pier mit bike. ( much more civlised than having to loup out of a side door of the ferry onto the conservancy boat in the middle of Loch Scresort).
- Arriving at Loch Scresort - Rum
Cycled round to the hostel, which seemed like offshore accommodation modules clad in wood camouflage. On the way to the hostel, I had to squeeze past a truck dumping metalling in front of the new 20-bed bunkhouse nearing completion by the campsite, to replace the hostel. A TV crew were in residence making followup pieces to the autumn watch series showing that the deer fawns were being born earlier due to "climate change".
They were up at the crack o dawn and didn't return till late to get the required shots - efficent use of our licence fees !
Later that evening a guy walked in who I'd worked with many moons ago, so we had a good news before he headed off to the research hut up in Coire nan Grunnd on Hallival, to study the effect (If any) of rats on the breeding of the Manx Sheerwaters.
Next day I set off towards Harris on my bike in glorious weather. Left my bike at the highest part of the Harris track, trying to anticipate my knackered state at the end of the day. Walking down the track to Harris, passed the TV crew setting up to film a hind and fawn grazing by track.
At Harris was the Rum ponies in a herd grazing until I disturbed them.
- Bullough Mausoleum & Rum Ponies
- Harris Beach
Headed off by the beach for the bridge over the Abhain Rangail and the faint track that goes below Loch Fiachanais round to Papadil (presumably). Being in the lee of Ruinsival, what breeze there was, wasn't reaching this area, so I had to keep moving to keep ahead of the midgies. It seemed that this path isn't used too much as the spiders were spinning webs across the parts of the path which had sides. Seemed a shame to destroy such hard work, so I tried to bypass all these wonderful creations. What a relief to get to the exposed rib at the end of Ruinsval and a wee breeze, where I headed up to the top of Ruinsival.
- Trollaval & Ainshval from Leac a' Chaisteil
Now I could see all the yachts plootering between the islands of Eigg, Muck, Rum & Canna.
There was a wee dip before the ridge of Leac a' Chaisteil brought me to the un-named 759m top.
The views were absolutely stunning - I'd forgotten how majestic Askival was - and rugged, like any Skye Cuillin top !
- Summit o Ainshval
- Ainshval top, Hallival & Askival
I'd always hankered to do Sgurr nan Gillian, as it was the only gaelic named top, however a few clouds had formed near the island so I headed off down the the ridge towards Ainshval, the primary objective.
- The Skye Cuillin, Hallival & Askival from the top of Ainshval
The pull up to Ainshval was short and fairly painless for an old buddy and at the top I soaked up the atmosphere, whilst watching a tourist boat pop into Dibidil bay and hover around.
A few pics on the top, then back to the bealach for a piece.
- Rum Skoooor nan Geeelian
The descent into the corrie was highlighted by a sighting of a pair of feral goats.
Loch Fiachanais was skirted to the N, as I'd spotted and old wall running up from Abhainn Rangail to a bend in the homeward track which would shorten the trip back a wee bit, seeing as the ground was drier than it's usual soggy state, which turned out to be nae bad.
Five young stags in velvet were disturbed just near the loch & headed off towards the beach.
A wee walk up the track found my bike, still padlocked to an old iron fencepost ( who would steal it on Rum - eh ?). Whilst moving the bike round to face the right direction, I fell over with the bike on top of me. Feeling really stupid, I collected my spilt GPS & sweeties and with a furtive glower around to see if anyone had seen me ( in the middle of nowhere ! ), shot off down the track to Kinloch on the bike.
What a fantastic day - not many of them in a pound on the west coast islands !
The Rum experience was really enhanced by the people I met, from the community hall cafe & shop folks in their "modern" attire, giving a distinct buzz on the Island, to the traditional "parahandy" tending all sorts of decaying mechanical bits at he end of the old jetty and the newly appointed SNH warden - full of enthusiasm for her new job!
- Kinloch Castle - Built 1901
Whilst waiting for the ferry to arrive the following afternoon I visited the otter hide, but didnae see any otters - only the resident Heron and a couple o Hoodies poking around in the seaweed.
As I boarded the ferry, I couldn't help feeling that I'd be back for Trollaval - a Graham !