Morrison's Gully - Dante's 10th Circle of Hell

[AnnieMacD]

Track_2014-08-16 Sail Mhor - Beinn Eighe.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

OK, OK, I'm being a bit melodramatic with the title, but it didn't feel so at the time

The weather forecast was pretty awful for the whole weekend with high winds, torrential rain and low cloud. So, no new Munros or Corbetts (or Beinn a' Chearcaill) for me this weekend as I want to get the views. However, I have done Beinn Eighe a couple of times now and in June I took a photo of Morrison's Gully on Sail Mhor with the thought that it might be a fun way of getting to the top - Sail Mhor is at the very west end of Beinn Eighe and is a Munro top at 980m. Morrison''s Gully isn't marked on the map as such but it's the huge gash on the north side of Sail Mhor. I tried Googling it and all I could find was winter ascents and one pair who had skied down it. Well, how difficult can it be if people ski down it? I thought. Hmmmm. So I consulted with Clivegrif on this site and he suggested it might not be a good idea in non-winter conditions. Hmmmm again.

Taken in June, Morrison's Gully on Sail Mhor from the path.
Sail Mhor-28 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Anyway off I set bright and early (I was bright and early but the day was dismal and dark) and by the time I got to the Ling Hut car park it was blowing a hooley. The mist was down at about 400-450 metres and there was no break in it for the whole walk-in. I reached Coire Mhic Fhearchair and walked right past the gully as the visibility was so bad I thought I'd better give it a miss and I couldn't see it anyway.

Loch Coire Mhic Fearchair
Sail Mhor by anniesmountains, on Flickr

I decided to go around the loch on the south-west side path but after a few metres I lost the path and although I could just make it out further on I decided to return to the path on the other side of the loch as I knew it was very well-defined and much used. When I was back at the head of the loch, now and again the mist would blow up a bit and I started seeing the end of the loch. Things were looking better!

Sail Mhor-2 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Looking back at the white horses from the south end of the loch - did I say it was windy?
Sail Mhor-3 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

As I had come this far and the cloud was lifting, I decided to go and inspect some of the remnants of the RAF Lancaster aircraft that had crashed on Beinn Eighe. It's quite poignant to see bits and pieces much as they were 60 odd years ago. I didn't go up to Fuselage Gully where the plaque is situated but there are plenty pieces further down such as this engine.

Lancaster engine.
Sail Mhor-4 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Round on this side of the corrie it was fairly sheltered so I started the ascent of Sail Mhor on the west side of the Triple Buttresses. There is a path all the way up to the bealach - mostly used by deer I suspect but there are a couple of wee cairns here and there too.

Still a lot of wind across the corrie but it was quite sheltered on my side.
Sail Mhor-5 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

I was worried when I hit the bealach that the wind would be horrific but quite the opposite - there wasn't too much wind at all, so happily I took a right and was at the magic circle in no time - you can see the summit in the mist not far away. I've no idea what the stone circle represents - suggestions anyone? Oh, and I found an ice axe just before the ridge - I posted it on the Lost and Found section, but I was really glad of it later on (no peeking, people!)

Stone circle on the ridge just below the summit which is not far away in the mist.
Sail Mhor-6 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Summit cairn - precipice on the other side.
Sail Mhor-7 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Looking down into Morrison's Gully from beside the summit cairn. Looks fine and you can even see the burn way down 400m below, through the mist.
Sail Mhor-8 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

By this time the clouds were swirling around and some views were showing up. It's so amazing when this happens and there are other hills 'in your face' that you were totally unaware of - Lithach, Beinn Dearg, Buttresses etc. I went back down to the stone circle and found a sheltered spot to take photos and have lunch.

Beinn Dearg and Beinn Alligin behind. Coire MhicNobaill is on the left.
Sail Mhor-9 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

The east end of Liathach.
Sail Mhor-10 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

The bealach between Sail Mhor and Coinneach Mhor. I came up just to the right of the bump - this avoided all the crags. You can see the Ugly Step leading up to Coinneach Mhor. You can also see down to Glen Torridon with Sgurr Dubh and the south Torridons behind.
Sail Mhor-11 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Ruadh-stac Mor.
Sail Mhor-12 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

The amazing Triple Buttresses. You can see the scree path leading up to Ruadh-stac Mor to the left.
Sail Mhor-13 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

The Liathach ridge.
Sail Mhor-14 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Loch a' Bhealaich, Baosbheinn, Loch na h-Oidhche, Beinn an Eoin.
Sail Mhor-15 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Loch Grobaig and Coire MhicNobaill.
Sail Mhor-16 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

So, after lunch, it was decision time. Go back the way I came or attempt the descent via the gully? I had a look down in the mist and the very top bit didn't look too steep but then the next thing I could see was the burn way down. The gully drops 400m in 600m horizontal so you can't see much of what's ahead. I decided to go for it.

The start of the descent - the sun even came out for a few seconds.
Sail Mhor-17 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Things started to deteriorate from then on. Firstly, the cloud closed in again and it got pretty wet - some rain but mostly water dropping of the walls. The rocks got bigger and they were very unstable - I realized no deer came down here and I should have turned back at that point (maybe 50m vertical) but just thought things would get easier. I started using the ice axe to stop myself slipping - I had one walking pole, but found the ice axe much more stable and I was digging the handle in to the muddy/rocky mixture. The surface changed a few times on the way down from big rocks (slippy) to smaller rocks (unstable) to green slime (no grip at all) to sandy and sometimes combinations of all of the above. Then I hit a choke stone. I didn't realize what it was until I was right on top of it - this happened a lot as it's so steep you can't see far ahead.

I couldn't jump down - it was far too high and the green slime was on the gully walls - everything was wet and slippery. What to do? I can't actually remember all the details but I went a back up a bit and clung on to the left wall (right in photo) to a small shelf where I could just sit - then I slid down the slime. I landed safely and then took a photo. Here it is. I slid down the right side rocks.

The choke stone after I got around it.
Sail Mhor-18 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

It took me a while to get myself together after this but was now faced with the certainty that I could not turn back.

Looking down into the unknown.
Sail Mhor-19 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

I carried on. My biggest fears were a) that I would come across a section I could not get down and b) that I would create a landslide and I'd be in the middle of it. All the rocks were very unstable. The water didn't bother me quite as much as mostly it was running under the rocks. And I was covered in mud anyway by this time.

Another obstacle I managed to negotiate.
Sail Mhor-20 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

I thought I must be getting near to bottom - but it just seemed to go on and on. Lots of thoughts were going through my mind. I was sure there wouldn't be any phone signal though I didn't stop to try. I was sure there wouldn't be anybody about in this weather. If Dante needed a 10th layer of Hell he would have had the lost souls going up and down Morrison's gully for ever more.... Then it happened. I stepped on a rock with my left foot which moved away and my right foot stayed where it was and I heard "Creech" from my right knee. OMG what's happened? I felt a stab of pain but then everything seemed OK. I put weight on my right leg - a little pain but it could take my weight - whew!

Then the sun came out again and the path looked tantalizingly close, but I still couldn't see all the way down.
Sail Mhor-21 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

The mist closing in again.
Sail Mhor-22 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

By now the gully was widening and there was grass growing on the right side. I saw a deer print, "Happy days" I shouted. I knew if the deer came this far I was fine. And so it was.

Grass and deer prints.
Sail Mhor-23 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Emerging into the world again. And what do I see - two people taking photos of the waterfalls.
Sail Mhor-24 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

Looking back up into the jaws of hell
Sail Mhor-25 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

I went down to say hello to the people - I could have kissed them I was so happy to be alive - but just said, "I came down the gully." "Oh yeah" they said. Oh yeah, indeed.

Then the rain started in earnest, but I didn't care, I had a 7km walk ahead, but I didn't care. I skipped down the path breathing in the mist and rain and all I could see was the beauty of it all. Then the sun came out again and there was Sgurr Dubh looking radiant.

Sgurr Dubh.
Sail Mhor-26 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

It was a terrible drive home but all I could see was rainbows.

Rainbow over Loch Coultrie.
Sail Mhor-27 by anniesmountains, on Flickr

So, many lessons learned. First, listen to people more experienced - thanks Clivegrif. Second, if you Google a route and can't find it, it's probably means people don't do it - for a reason. Thirdly, know when to turn back.

And I still have Coinneach Mhor to climb on another day.

As a postscript, when I arrived home I could hardly get out of the car as my knee had stiffened up and was quite swollen. I went to the doctor this morning and she diagnosed a pulled a ligament. She said I would probably be back in the hills in 3 weeks. Meanwhile to exercise it to keep it loose. I had told her the story and she said - well, we all have to go beyond our comfort zone now and then. Bless her.

[clivegrif]

Oh my word!!

Great report, and glad you survived in (more or less) one piece. At least the camera didn't do a flier this time. Hope the knee mends quickly, and you get back out there very soon - can't wait for the next installment!

Great atmospheric pictures, the Triple Buttress shot is superb. ....and that gully looks like great winter climb, but still not sure about it being a summer descent route

By the way, my Safety Consultancy rates are quite reasonable.

[Avocetboy]

Wow. We were up there last Thursday and I took a couple of photos of Morrison's gully. I was thinking, could you climb up it!, let alone climb down it! Amazing and a damn good read. Balls of steel

[weaselmaster]

Ooh - a bit of a scare there. Glad you emerged relatively unscathed.
Some great photos there - the triple buttress one in particular is impressive.

[malky_c]

Funny, I was looking at the map and thinking about going up Sail Mhor. The gully had caught my eye, but as Clive pointed out, they rarely make good summer routes...and you came DOWN it

I once came down a gully on the NE face of Maol Chean-dearg which was quite similar. Never again though, far too loose! You might enjoy it if you are after round 2

I should add that this provides an interesting variation on the usual scrambler's motto - never go down something you can't get back up

[Mountainlove]

Oh I really enjoyed reading that! Lol been there done that...and went back.
So good on you that you did the gully!! Yes lessons learned, but also a great experience!! And as they say Dantes rings of hell lead to heaven at the end

[scottishkennyg]

Good read there Annie (great images of Torridon too) and glad you got back safe and sound. Thought for a moment that you were heading for a big slide...The knee will heal and you will be back on the trail soon..Cheers

[rockhopper]

Wow - fascinating and scary - glad you got back OK. I guess many of us have got ourselves into tricky spots and then had to extricate ourselves (I know I have on more than one occasion !) - good experience for the future looking back on it in a strange kind of way - cheers

[clivegrif]

I once came down a gully on the NE face of Maol Chean-dearg which was quite similar. Never again though, far too loose! You might enjoy it if you are after round 2

I can assure you that going UP that particular gully in the summer is equally grim

[jmarkb]

Wow, that was a bit of an adventure! Pretty much any gully that's steep enough to warrant a winter climbing grade is worth avoiding in the summer, even in ascent - at best they are just full of loose rock and wet grass.

For anyone wanting an alternative way up Sail Mhor, there's an interesting looking grade 2 scramble round to the left of Morrison's Gully (Lawson, Ling and Glover's Route, details in the SMC Highland Scrambles North guide, first climbed in 1899!).

[jmarkb]

I can assure you that going UP that particular gully in the summer is equally grim

The SMC guide describes a scramble up the rib/ridge to the right (looking up) of the gully at Grade 1/2 (North Flank Route).

[Huff_n_Puff]

Wow - really gripping report, I admire your cool in being able to take photos in the middle of a really scary descent, and taking some brilliant shots to boot! If I could have managed the descent I certainly couldn't have handled the camera

Hope the knee recovers soon - not least so that we can read about your next adventure

[Johnny Corbett]

Another fine report Annie . Good to see you got down the gully safely. Been there myself on quite a few occasions when you head steeply off a hill, praying there's a way down so you don't have to go back up again.

[mountain thyme]

Looks a scary descent
Love that area. You have some great pics

[dogplodder]

Read that with bated breath - even though it was obvious you'd survived or you wouldn't be writing a report and posting pics! You're a brave lady.