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I'd had my eye on this for a while for my next wild camp, starting at Victoria Bridge, looping over Stob a'Choire Odhair, Stob Ghabhar, Creise and Meall a'Bhuiridh, returning back down the WHW, with a camp on the way. I know it can all be done in a long day, but living in the "effete" south I have to factor in driving time from Yorkshire.
A good forecast, a couple of days off, and permission from The Boss it was all systems go on the English Bank Holiday Monday. I arrived at the car park at 12 midday and was soon on the way, in glorious sunshine ...
- The track towards the first two Munros
- Looking up the Glen
The turn off to the first Munro is clearly marked and the path climbs gently at first, then more steeply after crossing the burn to head ip the shoulder to the bouldery summit of Stob a'Choire Odhair, reaching the summit in just over two and a half hours.
- South-west from the summit of Stob a'Choire Odhair
- Stob Ghabhar from Stob a'Choire Odhair
All had been going well until I got to the top when I suddenly felt really ropey, even ropier than lugging 10-12kg of kit up a Munro would normally make me feel. I think I'd actually got mildly hypothermic, as despite the sunshine, there was a strong wind, gusting to 30 mph, and I hadn't bothered to stop to put my shell on. At the summit I was shivering like mad until I got some more layers on. On descending to the bealach between Stop a'Choire Odhair and Stob Ghabhar my legs were like jelly, things were not good and I had to think about a Plan B.
Original Plan A was to camp high on the plateau north of the summit of Stob Ghabhar, and hope for some serious mountain porn at sunrise and sunset but the wind, developing cloud and general pathetic feeling kicked that idea into touch. Plan B was to drop down to Corein Lochain under the north-east face of Stob Ghabhar, and after much phaffing about I found a flat spot with good views of the lochan one way, and Rannoch Moor the other.
- Des Res in Coirein Lochain
- Nice view from the dining area ...
Taking an early break gave me several hours in the evening to potter about and enjoy the views with my friend Mr Laphroaig. The cloud descended over the tops though and sadly ruled out any spectacular sunset over the moor, but it was as ever always a privilege to be able to enjoy a special view in solitude.
- Rannoch Moor in the evening
In the morning the cloud was right down to the tent (camped at about 650 m). Well rested and feeling like normal service had been resumed, I left just before 7 and ascended Stob Ghabhar, in the clag all the way. The route north from Stob Ghabhar passes over a broad grassy plateau and as there are several ridges to wrongly go down the compass was out, which was fun(ish). I was pressing on in the hope that the clag would be lifting soon as per the forecast; there was the occasional glimpse of clearing sky but only with the fleeting longevity of an X-factor winner, and it wasn't until I neared the drop off to Bealach Fuar-chathaidh between Aonach Mor and Clach Leathad that the cloud dramatically rose and revealed the first stunning views of the day.
- WNW up Coire Ghiubhasan towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach (I think ...)
The route from Stob Ghabhr (for me) had been essentially pathless, odd glimpses now and then, and the steep ascent from Bealach Fuar-chathaidh up the steep south-west flank of Clach Leathad was no exception, a tough climb over grassy tussock, scree and some rock, finally becoming less sadistic on the long bouldery summit slope.
- Steep flank of Clach Leathad - the only way is up!
- Glencoe hills from the summit slope of Clach Leathad
Clach Leathad is not classified as a Munro, it stands a whole one metre less in height than Creise, the Munro at the northern end of the ridge, but has fantastic views and shouldn't be missed out:
- The ridge between Creise and Meall a'Bhuiridh from Clach Leathad summit
- Stob a'Choire Ohdair (L) and Sob Ghabhar from Clach Leathad
From here it was a straightforward walk along the ridge to the summit cairn at Creise, before backtracking a few hundred metres to the cairn that marked the start of the clamber across to Meall a'Bhuiridh.
- Clach Leathad from Creise
- Meall a'Bhuiridh from Creise summit
Although knackered by this point, I perversely quite enjoyed the descent from Creise and ascent to the final Munro. Of the four climbs I found it the easiest as it was neither too steep, too long or too crumbly. The views from the summit were simply stunning.
- Stob a'Choire Odhair and Stob Ghabhar from Meall a'Bhuiridh
- Meall a'Bhuiridh summit ridge overlooking Rannoch Moor
- Schiehallion across the moor
The Ben...
Grey Corries...
By now the cloud was negligible. It was still very cold though, and I needed three layers to stay normothermic. On this trip I'd re-learnt to appreciate just how easy it is to lose body temperature in supposedly good conditions.
I managed to phone home from the summit, reassured anyone who was pretending to be bothered that I was still alive (I'd seen no-one else on the walk since the summit of Stob a'Choire Odhair the previous afternoon), then set off along the ridge to find the descent down the south-east shoulder.
The drop down to the the West Highland Way took me nearly two hours, over steep bouldery ground at first then peaty boggy stuff on the drop off to the left of Creag an Fhirich. All the while I was treated to sumptuous views over Rannoch Moor, and occasional glimpses of nervous wildlife.
- Wall of Rannoch hills from the descent
- Nosey neighbours
All that was left to be done was the 5 miles south along the WHW back to Victoria Bridge. Whilst at first it seemed easy to be back on a good track, the sharp stone soon took its toll on tired feet and it was a case of head down and no stopping until it was all over.
- The WHW going south - 's gonna be a long walk home.. (the other Boss)
My figures for distance and ascent are from the GPS. All-in-all I found this a tough but immensely satisfying walk. I got back home to York just after midnight. My legs hurt...
