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For a long time Moira and I talked about going over to Mull to climb Ben More. We always agreed we needed a good weather day with excellent visibility to make the most of the views from this island Munro. After years of chat I took the bull by the horns and booked a cottage for a week for Pete and me, the idea being that Moira would scan the weather sites and come over for the day that looked the best to do the climb.
We took the Corran ferry over and arrived at Lochaline just in time to see the ferry leaving for Mull so walked the dogs to fill the gap before the next one. It was just as we were about to board Pete met RyanfaeScotland who was two cars behind. Didn't pick up his message until a couple of days later (no wifi) and hope he had a good time on Mull!
Lochaline to Fishnish ferry
The next morning we drove north to Tobermory with its delightful bay lined with coloured houses. The grandkids were excited to hear we were having lunch in Balamory, the only downside being it was too warm to leave the dogs in the car but we couldn't find any eating places that allowed dogs (unlike Keswick in Cumbria where they were welcomed in shops and cafes alike).
What's the story in Balmory?
After a rushed lunch (because of having to leave dogs in car) we took the narrow winding road west to Calgary Bay. This was a nice beach where the dogs got a swim but not as stunning as the ones we found on Iona later in the week.
Calgary Bay
From Calgary we drove south with hazy views of the Treshnish Isles and saw 6 sea eagles in about 10 minutes on the north side of Loch Tuath. I wasn't sure if the first one we saw was a golden or sea eagle and asked a guy on a bike who'd been watching it with binoculars. He said there are goldens nesting on Mull but this was definitely a sea eagle and pointed out another. After that we saw 4 more - majestic birds soaring on the thermals on a warm sunny afternoon. We didn't see any more during the rest of the week so this was obviously the place to go to see them.
As we passed the Island of Ulva on our right views were improving of the highest point on Mull - Ben More.
Ben More from near Ulva ferry
Back in Inverness Moira checked MWIS and the forecasts which indicated Wednesday, Thursday and Friday were all equally good so she decided on Thursday for the climb. On the Wednesday Pete and I explored the south side of the island, ending up on the B8035, the road that skirts Ben More which we were pleased to see was cloud free and looking good for the next day!
Beinn Tallaidh (Mull's lost Corbett) from A849
Ben More from south at Ardvergnish
Beach and island of Inch Kenneth just west of Dhiseag route up Ben More
The morning of the climb started misty but we assumed it would clear as the forecast was good. We parked just before a bridge on the grassy area on the shore side of the road opposite the signed track for Dhiseig.
Shoreside parking on Loch na Keal
View west over bridge
Sadly both my dogs are getting on a bit and have arthritic joints. Although they'd have been up for coming I decided it was kinder to leave them and was relieved I didn't have them when I read the sign insisting dogs must be kept on lead at all times.
Hazy but top clear (M's pic)
The track leads to the entrance to a house when you follow a sign 'UP' to the right and through a gate. The path leads to the left bank of the Abhainn Dhiseig with views opening up back to the islands. I decided since it was hazy not to take many photos, assuming it would be better on the way down. It wasn't.
Isle of Eorsa on right
After two easy burn crossings the path continues up the right bank passing a series of waterfalls. At this point we noticed the cloud was thicker and lower and we could no longer see the summit.
Waterfalls on Abhainn Dhiseag
Good path well marked by cairns
Eorsa island gradually fading as we climbed into cloud
Nearing the summit
By the time we reached the large summit shelter we were in a damp world of cotton wool and could only see about 10 feet all round. Sitting in the shelter when we arrived was a couple from Shropshire who had just bought a house in the same village as my sister in law. They had climbed Ben More in April 2012 when there wasn't a cloud in the sky and the views were so good were keen to come back. I felt for them but at least they'd seen it - which is more than could be said for us!
No sign of the magnificent summit panoramas but it was an impressive shelter around the cairn
After our careful planning it was disappointing but that's the weather and you can't always rely on forecasts. We stayed for a while hoping the cloud would break and we'd get a glimpse of something but if anything it thickened and it was becoming quite chilly too. So after food we set off back down and by the time we reached the waterfalls it was raining and rained all the way back to the car. At one point Moira slipped on wet rock, putting her hand down to save herself and jarring her shoulder in the process. It was painful but not dislocated which was a relief as a trip to A & E might not have been so easy on Mull.
Ironically the next day we had glorious sunshine, turquoise blue waters and stunning white beaches on the nearby Island of Iona.
Bunessan on the road to Iona
Iona from Fionnphort
North end of Iona
That rock looked to me unsettlingly like an angry shark
Ben More from Pennyghael the day after we were up there in thick clag
It's one of the easier Munros to climb and we agreed if ever we're on Mull again and the weather looks good we'll go up again - just to see what we missed!
