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When the opportunity presented itself to revisit the Ardgour Horseshoe with my local hiking group, via exactly the same route, I jumped at it. I'd gone over this ground on my own just 11 months before and ranks high among my favourite hill days.
It's a biggish day for this time of year, especially with the 3 hours each way by road factored in, and with the large-ish group expected to take an hour longer than last year's solo hike.
On arrival at the start point near Inversanda, the group lead asked how I'd started the route last time. I explained that, although I was aware of a faint path along the western flank of SME, it doesn't really begin ascending until almost below the summit. I'd gone straight up the nose to gain the ridge to hopefully get the views down Loch Linnhe and over to Ballachullish and Glencoe as the sun rose.
September 2014: Looking promising...
October 2013: More promising?
It was already 10am and brightening skies above. I reflected on the fact that, in October 2013, I'd began walking in darkness before 7am and was walking the early ground blind, while being serenaded by three bellowing stags I'd inadvertently wandered into the middle of. I'd walked on in the hope the one nearest me
(could still only hear, rather than see, them) would budge and he duly obliged although, he made his discontent known for the next 3-4 hours as he effectively accompanied me round the ridge to Garbh Bheinn, from his position down in Coire Lubhair.
Oct 2013: Sun rising against Garbh Bheinn & Beinn Bheag) from Sgorr Mhic Eacharna (stag still bellowing in the corrie below
)
Back to the present and the group headed straight up the same way, I recognised several features on the way up, and I was mindful of the fact it had been a bit of a steep slog up this slope previously and, this time, post-achilles' problems (& associated weight-gain
), had the head down and recently-adopted poles in hand, working overtime to haul me up there before I expired. One sure way of keeping one going here are the views opening up behind, giving plenty of excuses for a breather.
The forecast had been for a misty start, followed by brighter conditions throughout the afternoon and winds increasing however, it was bright when we started,
then got cloudier, cooler and the wind didn't increase noticeably in the afternoon...it was there from the start.
Very different to last time...
No matter, it was still a brilliant day for this route, with the cloud never really troubling any of the summits. I've said many a time that this is one of my favourite parts of Scotland and although I know of no connection to the area, other than family holidays, feel utterly at home here and shall continue to visit for as long as I can...until I can move in permanently
(if only I could persuade the wife and kids to join me ).
Once on to the ridge, the skies above were still blue but, it was hazy around the horizon and the islands weren't visible today. It's a fair old trek along the ridge to SME, over the typically grass-covered, rocky ground of this part of the world. One benefit of gaining the high ground early in this walk are the views to the ultimate target, Garbh Bheinn, which accompanies you as you go and it's a great vantage point for some of GB's classic scrambling and climbing routes such as Pinnacle Ridge, Great Ridge & Great Gully.
And last year (Garbh Bheinn left, Beinn Bheag right)...
Could just about make out Ben More on Mull through the distant murk but no Small Isles or Skye Cuillin for us today. Plenty of hills in the near distance to admire though along this ridge with Sgurr Dhomnuill dominating to the immediate N; Beinn Resipol to the NW; the Moidart and Glenfinnan Corbetts; Creach & Fuar Bheinn behind us to the SW; and Beinn a'Bheither hills to the East of us, all in plain sight and variable light.
Sgurr Dhomnuill today
Sgurr Dhomnhuill (Oct.2013)
Creach (& Fuar) Bheinn
Down Glen Gour with the tops of the Moidart Corbetts in the distance
As the cloud thickened and the blue skies disappeared, there was a noticeable drop in temperature but, still very comfortable for walking in. Talking about drops, there is a considerable drop in height between SME and BB but, it's so beautiful, you hardly notice...until the steep pull up the other side. Again, it's dry today but, this section could be tricky when wet.
Once up on to the Beinn Bheag ridge, there's a few hummocks here as well and, after the true summit, there's another drop down, softened by the view along the classic U-shaped valley that is Glen Gour (above), between BB and Sgurr na Laire/a'Chaorainn. So a stiff pull up this last section and once over the top, we find ourselves high above Bealach Feith'n Amean, with a steep descent to the lochan and then a very steep pull up on to Garbh Bheinn. I'm grinning from ear to ear at this prospect, a different story to last year when I stood at this point contemplating dropping into Coire Lubhair and walking out. I'd sat, had a brew and picked out a line (the grassy rake to the left) I reckoned I could take up Garbh Bheinn and went for it. It didn't look quite so bad once down in the bealach anyway and once ascending, it's good fun. We take roughly the same line today and, in fact, I'm looking at the rockier face further to the left and thinking that on a dry day like today, it would offer a fun and relatively easy scramble.
Down off Beinn Bheag to Bealach Feith'n Amein
And up the other side
It's a fair old way up and a steep pull before a levelling-out and drop into a wee col before another, much shorter, steep pull up to bring you within relative touching distance of the summit, which is reached by bearing SE
(ignoring the 862m top, which I wasn't too bothered about, having visited previously and intend to do so again when next on Garbh Bheinn by approaching from Strontian to the West).
Summit today
Summit Oct.2013
A glimpse into the chasm of the corrie by the Great Ridge
After another snack stop on the summit of Garbh Bheinn and a look along the ridges and down into the gullies, the group began the descent, splitting into two smaller groups of those who wished to do the 823m top and those who preferred to bypass to the SW of the ridge, I joined the latter and we enjoyed a fairly rapid descent and were back at the van some 45 minutes ahead of the second group, which allowed time for a relaxed freshen-up and change for the drive home.
The way down (seen better in last year's pic
)
Sat by the roadside rehydrating, with a fairly full view of the day's route laid out before you, is a nice way to finish off what is a spectacular circuit...
2014 (Sep)
... and an excuse for a couple more of last year's pics to finish
2013 (Oct)
