
Left the house just after 5am on Thursday and had a pleasant drive up to Ardgay. Then onto single track road for about 10 miles to the parking area near Glencalvine Lodge. Off at the respectable time of 10.20 with the knowledge that I'd have about 6 hours of usable light today. I knew the first section would be fair enough on good track, but I was expecting bog and wetness in the section between Carn Chuinneag & Bein a'Chaisteil and had little idea how far through it I'd get. I walked along toward the lodge, past the fantastic tree house and in through the gates...wasn't entirely sure if this was allowed until I saw a sign pointing to "Footpath". Various estate workers were out tending to the well kept gardens - looks a lovely place. The next section took me along a good stony track running alongside the Water of Glencalvie. Grouse announced their presence as I walked by. I was disappointed to note a blanket of cloud lying over the hilltops, but hoped that it would clear as the day went on. Progress was brisk and I was soon down at Diebidale. Ahead, just visible in the mist, were the twin tops of Chuinneag. A faint path leads from the track - so faint in fact I missed it - but the path becomes drier and clearer as height is gained. As I climbed I rose above the cloud-line and had some great views of the surrounding tops peaking through the mist.
Parking spot


Tree house

It's off into the mist

Twin tops of Chuinneag pushing through the mist

The going is steady and heads round to the west of the subsidiary top before heading across the northern flank of the mountain. Saw my first clutch of seasonal ptarmigan clag in their new whites. At an appropriate point I left the track and headed up over a rocky terrace to reach the summit. Views were superb - all the way over to the Assynt hills with Cul Mor, Suilven, Ben Hope glowing in the distance. It was much colder up here in the wind and another layer was needed whilst I grabbed a quick lunch.
Above the clouds

Ben Hope (zoomed)

Looking northeast

And west

Klibreck (?) popping thru the cloud

Leaving the track for the summit



Over to Cul Mor etc

Headed over to the subsidiary summit then took a line down to the south-west over rocks initially then boggy heather. Made for the obvious line of Leaba Bhaltair then continued to head west towards Creag Ruadh. This was in the main a trudge over undulating peat bogs that sapped the energy. I pressed on hard, wanting to get as close to Beinn a'Chaisteil before darkness fell as I could. it was hot work - down to base-layer but having to wear my cap as the low sun was shining directly into my eyes. Over to my right rose the Graham Beinn Tharsuinn - with more daylight hours I'd have thought of adding it in. The terrain was cast in an ochre light from the sinking sun. I made it onto the lower slopes of Creag Dubh Mhor, Beinn a'Chaisteil somewhere up ahead obscured by cloud. A steady climb over stony hillside brought me within sight of the flank of Beinn a'Chaisteil curving to the south. I was really feeling the pace now, stumbling about. I crossed a small river and thought about filling up my bladder, but I was too fatigued to bother - something I'd regret later. Anyway I made the summit of Chaisteil just as the sun was setting over the western hills, the ruby glow illuminating the clouds. Fitting I thought for my 100th Corbett of the year.
Subsidiary summit of Chuinneag

The way ahead

Suilven

View back to Chuinneag

Dazzled

Beinn Tharsuinn

Up ahead onto this hill

Another look back at Chuinneag

Beinn a'Chaisteil up ahead


Flat summit of Ba'C

Chuinneag with a scarf of cloud

Summit Ba'C looking west

Pink glow over Carn Ban




What to do now? My options were to camp up near the summit or head down over what looked to be quite steep western flanks to the track in Strath Vaich. I wasn't sure if I'd have the time to get fully down before the light failed so decided to sleep up high. I knew that there would be no long sunset or glimmering dawn light from a high camp at this time of year and I worried a little about how cold it would become overnight, but hey - I should be alright. Found a flatter, if somewhat moist - grassy area after dropping 100 or so metres from the top and pitched up in the last of the light. Quite pleased with the day's efforts - almost half the distance covered. Made a quick meal which I ate from the comfort of my sleeping bag and settled down for what would be a long night - it was only 5pm and I knew I couldn't get going again before about 7.30. Snuggled in my bag was warm enough, but after a hot and hard day I was a bit thirsty - and found my bladder empty. I had a small bottle of water for breakfast needs but that was it. drat - should have filled up when I had a chance - nothing for it but to dehydrate through the night. That added to the sense of longness of the dark hours - especially when I would flit in and out of sleep and dream about streams of clear water

Day 1 stats

Tent

Morning came - I could feel my head thumping with the mix of dehydration, yesterday's low sunlight and no coffee. made breakfast and put the coffee situation right then bundled up my belongings and set off at a stagger down the hillside towards the first stream I could find. Ahhh - cool water. I drank my fill and restocked my bladder before setting off along the excellent track along Strath Vaich. It looked another fine day with fluffy pink clouds hovering atop the hills. Over to my right was the beautifully isolated Deanich Lodge. I had originally intended to head up over Meall a'Chaorain - a graham - but the way I was feeling today I thought I'd better give that a miss - it looked a steep fellow and I didn't have it in me to take on an extra 350m straight up in my current condition. So I stuck to the track, winding round that hill and making for the bridge. The track continues on up the first part of the hillside to a small dammed installation - oops - no way up here. I backtracked a little and found a stalker's path zigzagging its way up Cail Mhor. As I gained altitude the clag came down - disappointing as I'd really wanted another glimps of my favourite hills in the West. A long boggy trudge took me over featureless hillside to the southern cairn of Carn Ban. it was cold again up here - out of the sun and with a cutting wind blowing in my face. I felt pretty wretched, a bit sick, most likely the ongoing effects of being dehydrated yesterday. Keeping going I walked along the fairly flat hilltop towards the summit cairn, which finally rose out of the mist. Yeah - all three in the bag.
Morning glow over Meall a'Chaorain

Descent towards the path

Ah - water!!

Good track up Strath Vaich

Deanich Lodge

Heading up here, to the left of the stream

Crossing the bridge

Beinn Dearg group over to the west

Dam - damn - can't go up here

Exciting way up

Cairn Carn Ban

Crazy man at the top


I would have quite liked to be teleported or helicoptered off the hills at this point with the objectives completed, but knew I had a trek still to go. Firstly over to the summit of Bodach Beag - a re-ascent of 150 painful metres. At some points it looked like the clouds might actually lift, giving a view of Carn Ban - but any temporary gaps were quickly filled by more clag. Skirting SE from the summit I had to trudge over bogs and peat hags in mist - one of my least favourite aspects of hillwalking. Came to a drop before Lochan nan Leac, which I could just make out in the mist, then - oh no - not up again

This was the going from here on in

View towards Bodach Beag

View west

Lochan

Unflattering slopes of An Socach

The track is finally spied

The deer

Still boggy miles to go

View up Glen Allandale

Carn na Speiraig

Path past Allandale Lodge

Bouldergate

Stats

A good walk this, but reminded me of the need to get a bit leaner and fitter before heading out again
