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A look at the weather forecast suggested east was going to be drier this weekend, so I shelved my plans for hills around Glenfinnan and decided to head up to Braemar. Unfortunately the campsite at Braemar opens next week, so we would have to do a bit of non-campsite camping. I reckoned we'd probably be OK at Linn of Dee car park. We drove up in the dark, roads busy through Glasgow then quieting as we got into the countryside after Blairgowrie. The temperature was nestling just the wrong side of freezing as we turned into the woods at Linn of Dee and the first flurries of snow danced through the headlight beams. A warm night in store then
Surprisingly there weren't any other cars about and we pitched on the firm gravel of the car park. We could hear the winds soughing in the trees above but
down here we were sheltered and as comfy as you can be camping in December.
P1040930 by
23weasels, on Flickr
As we were getting ready in the morning a number of walkers/cyclists arrived and headed off up towards Derry Lodge. We dissembled the tent and set out, the weather dry and quite bright. Our path took us back along the road and onto the track westwards along the Dee, heading for Sgor Mor. I'd decided to combine this Corbett with my last remaining Cainrgorm Top, Carn Cloich Mhuillin on Beinn Bhrotain. We needed to be quick about it to get the 30km covered in daylight, but at least the return path was along good track if darkness fell before we returned to the car. After a kilometre or so we cut up into the heather, initially following a track, which became a deer path then disappeared in the undergrowth. A new electric fence has been installed by Mar Estate to assist with re-forestation, so we found the gate rather than risk electrifying our nether regions. We headed for the first top, Carn an 'lc Duibhe then found a new deer fence to follow heading towards the next objective, Sgor Dubh. Unfortunately we had risen into the cloud line by now, but at least the going got easier as the heather became more scrubby. A trig point and small cairn shelter marked the top as we set off westwards for Sgor Mor, invisible in the clag. The wind rose walking across the flattish terrain. The familiar red granite gravel appeared underfoot and the hillside became stonier as we neared the summit. From the cairn we wandered over to the large flat slab or rock that looked to be higher and noticed a couple of the "washbowls" that you can find on certain other Cairngorm tops - on the tors of Beinn Mheadoin for example. Eschewing the opportunity to rinse our faces on account of the ice in them we prepared to head down for White Bridge and the route up to Beinn Bhrotain. When I'd been route planning I had wondered if I could descend west either from Sgor Mor or its neighbouring top Creagan nan Gabhar and head for Carn Fiaclach Beag, but the unknown was the crossing of the Dee. I decided to play it safe, although as it happened we could have saved a few kilometres if we'd gone for a paddle. The terrain down to White Bridge was a bit boggy but the cold temperatures helped firm up the ground and we had lunch in the shelter of the bridge, which, in case you haven't noticed, isn't very white at all
Start up the hill
P1040932 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Looking east along the Dee
P1040934 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Nice walking terrain up to Sgor Dubh
P1040936 by
23weasels, on Flickr
New deer fence
P1040937 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Sgor Dubh
P1040939 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Heading west to Sgor Mor
P1040942 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040943 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Summit
P1040944 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Washbowls
P1040947 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Icicle roots
P1040949 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Towards White Bridge
P1040950 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Dee
P1040951 by
23weasels, on Flickr
White Bridge
P1040952 by
23weasels, on Flickr
We set off alongside the Dee on a very fine footpath, something I hadn't really expected. The autumnal colours were lovely when the sun glimpsed through and the flow of the river leant a restful soundtrack to our walk. We turned up to our left at the Allt Iarnaidh - again I was surprised to see a cairn and find a boggy track to follow until it dawned on me that this would be an approach to Beinn Bhrotain - I'd climbed the hill twice but from the west each time. Over grassy slopes we climbed to Carn Fiaclach Beag then puffed up to Carn Fiaclach before picking up a path for Mhuillin itself. As we neared the Top, the grass gave way to boulders and our first sight of snow - small drifts only. We'd been in the shelter of the hill most of the day, but as we approached the summit the wind found us and let rip. Any thought of continuing on to the top of Bhrotain itself was quickly abandoned when we felt the strength of the gusts - icy boulders and gale force winds is not a benevolent combination
Anyhow, I made it to the top first - this was to have been Sir Hugh Munro's final summit (when it was a full Munro not merely a Top) and was the last of my Tops in this part of the world (Lord knows there are enough of them in the Monad Ruadh). I celebrated with an imaginary pint while waiting for Sick Kid to catch me up then we about turned and headed down again. The weather was clearing as we descended towards Glen Dee and permitted us a view of The Penis of the Demon and the snowy back of Cairn Toul in the upper reaches of the Glen. Back to White Bridge, fill up for our bladders then a march along the track back to Linn of Dee. We reached the car park just as darkness fell and the first pitter-pats of rain began. As we were putting the tent back up the party of walkers who'd left in the morning were returning - suspect they thought us a little mental. But what's another night in a frosty car park when there's hills to be done
(Not very) White Bridge
P1040957 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Make up your own story...
P1040958 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Glen Dee
P1040959 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040960 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Great path
P1040961 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040964 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Carn Fiaclach Beag
P1040965 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Heading for Mhuillin
P1040969 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Summit
P1040970 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Celebratory pose
P1040971 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Here she comes...
P1040972 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040973 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040974 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Heading down
P1040976 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Penis of the Demon (zoomed)
P1040978 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Stats
P1040979 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Rain gave way to some snow overnight and it became cold around 4am. As we began to emerge into the cold air we could hear the frost slipping off the tent. A hopeful robin danced around the tent door hoping for food and was rewarded with some potato scone. A warming bowl of porridge made exit into the frosty air a little easier and we drove along snowy roads to Linn of Quoich to climb Carn na Drochaide. If we were OK for time I'd planned to add a stop driving home to climb Creag nan Gabhar down in Glen Shee and snare a third Corbett, but much would depend on the weather - I knew a weather warning for later in the day had been issued. We parked up at Allanquoich and set off long the road for Allanmore. The sky ahead to the East was blue and clear, whilst behind us was it heavy and full of snow - and the wind was bringing the snow our way. We passed Allanmore cottage which has a tree house with its own chimney - how cool is that - and found the track that cuts back on itself up the hill. To be honest I think it would be easier to just head up the hillside earlier in the route as the track is at best faint and soon disappears into longish heather. Not the best day to leave your gaiters behind.
Frosty morning
P1040980 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Linn of Quoich
P1040983 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Road to Allanmore
P1040985 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040986 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Allanmore cottage
P1040987 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Treehouse with chimney
P1040988 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Track
P1040989 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Carn na Drochaide
P1040990 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Troubled sky
P1040992 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Rock
P1040994 by
23weasels, on Flickr
We stopped off on Creag a'Chleirich which gave good views north to Beinn a'Bhuird and Beinn Avon - illustrating well how far apart the southern Tops are on that hill. Descending briefly we returned to the slopes up Carn an Drochaide, following a deer path through the snowy heather that seemed to be making for the summit. Maybe it's a Corbetteering deer? As we reached the last 50m or so of ascent the wind grew icy and fierce, cutting through gloves and making the summit not a place to linger upon today. We found several cairns, located the summit one then headed back down, taking a more direct line back to the road. We stopped in the shelter of a group of granny pines to have lunch before walking the short stretch of road back to the car. It was now around 12.30 - what to do? The weather looked pretty - snow showers had stopped and the sun made an appearance. We halted in Braemar to use the facilities and pondered - I decided we would leave the hill for another day as the weather was bound to deteriorate before long by the look of the sky in the NW and I didn't want a drive back on icy roads in the dark. Driving through Glen shee the hills were sparkling, resplendent in their white coats and it was tempting to nip up, but I pressed on. Coming down the A93 to the Spittal was quite scary as the roads were treacherous, and this increased in the section to Bridge of Cally, where there were several accidents where cars had left the road and ended up through fences or perched on top of walls. I suspected, as the snow continued to fall, that there would be a few more accidents by the end of the day. This was my first experience of driving the Yeti in snow and apart from one icy slide it fared pretty well. Back in Glasgow early enough for a trip to Tiso's and home at a reasonable hour.
View to Beinn Avon
P1040995 by
23weasels, on Flickr
..and Beinn a'Bhuird
P1040996 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1040997 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Nearing the top
P1040998 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1050002 by
23weasels, on Flickr
P1050003 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Descent
P1050004 by
23weasels, on Flickr
More snow to fall...
P1050005 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Shelter
P1050007 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Allanquoich
P1050011 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Stats
P1050012 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Carn na Drochaide from Dalgowan, on the road to Braemar
P1050013 by
23weasels, on Flickr