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I had really been looking forward to this Easter Weekend for a while now and pencilled into the notepad in my head was Gulvain. We were to be staying at my brother and sister in laws in Ardgour. I kept an eye on the weather, all reports on social media contained warnings from various Mountain Rescue teams and experts to be wary of the snow conditions above 600m. I therefore packed the full kit in case. Originally Saturday had been penned but one too many Drams with the brother in law Friday night led to a late night or more accurately an early morning, so Saturday was swiftly ruled out. We instead went a walk up Glen Scaddle with all the dogs.
The weather on Sunday morning started foggy but the heat outside threatened that it would burn off, this is the good thing about staying within 30 minutes of your starting point for a hill walk, on the spot decisions can be made. I loaded the mutts into the car and took off North along Loch Linnhe which skirts the loch all the way round to Loch Eil where I parked just before reaching the A830 in the small layby on my left just after the railway bridge. Signs were that I was going to be correct and the fog would burn away. I packed crampons, ice axe, waterproofs, 2 x jackets, food & water for 8 + hours walking anyway.
I crossed the A830 and turned up towards the houses and took a right over the Fionn Lighe. I took a left up the track signed by a right of way to Strathan through a gate which was open and headed off up the Glen.
- Take a right at these house to cross the Fionn Lighe
- Go through this gate leading up the Glen, marked for right away up Strathan
I had read that bikes would be advantageous for this walk but my want, need and getting lists are over spilling so I walked. I set off at a decent pace up the Glen, it rises gently and drops again and upon reaching the first of two small wooden bridges I could smell decay, the dogs promptly found a decaying Stag just off the track. I prised them away and we soon reached the bridge we would cross over to follow the track on the West side of the Glen. The water below was clear and beautiful, the dogs had a swim and then we continued.
- Cross this bridge to switch to West side of the Glen
- Track continues up to unused tin building
- Tin Building
- Gate after the Tin Buildings - two peas in a pod
After reaching the deserted building at Wauchen we went through a couple of gates and once round one of the corners it opened up a bit on the East side and I heard the ‘seeir’ noise of what I recognised to be a Golden Eagle, I immediately went for my camera and looked to the sky but saw nothing, a few seconds later I saw the Eagle sitting right at the top of one of the trees to my right about 50 meters away. It was disturbed by the dogs quartering the terrain and it took off before I could get a picture, it looked massive and it was a pleasure to hear and see one at the same time. The scene reminded me of a programme I watched a few years ago about the American Bald Eagles of the Chilkat Reserve where hundreds of them perched on trees waiting on the Salmon run. Ok this was only one Golden Eagle but the scene was similar in looks if not in Eagle numbers. This picture will remain in the hard drive of my head for a lifetime. It was around here I got my first sight of Gulvain, mist still shrouded the initial slopes but I felt confident by the time I got there it would be gone.
- First sight of Gulvain
- Mist still circling the Mountain
- Looking back to where we've come from
- Mist clearing the closer we get
In no time I reached the small cairn indicating the turn off for the hill path, it started fine but after taking a left it soon started to steepen significantly. The higher I got the better the views and I was correct the fog did burn off.
- A clear Ben Nevis from the shoulder of Gulvain
- Zoomed, over the Corbett Meall a'Phubuill
The path zig zags in sections up the slope and after many stops due to a mixture of not being fully fit, the heat and photo ops I got to the 855m minor bump. I could see the ridge ahead passing over the trig point and down to the bealach and up to the summit in the distance.
- First sight of both Summits of Gulvain
- Capering at the Trig Point
I felt absolutely wonderful. We capered on the southern summit for a while and I filled my water bottle with snow to keep me going as I had drunk a lot more than I envisaged due to the heat. The dogs ate snow balls and got a few pieces. We continued over to the true summit, you drop into the bealach and we passed around 6 walkers returning from their summit.
- Summit ridge proper
- The Ben zoomed, not often you get a clear day up there
The snow fields were deep over to the summit and there were a few cornices but we made it to the summit and it was deserted so we got it to ourselves. We stayed and admired the views and rested up for 20 minutes enjoying the views.
- Summit dogs
- Todays Corbett, Streap and then the Glenfinnan Munros
The Gaels called this mountain Gaor Bheinn - the Noisy hill, this must be after the noise the wind makes when hitting it in its isolated position after sweeping up the many surrounding Glens, and amazingly I could hear a pin drop today!! It was here I decided to include the Corbett Braigh nan Uamhachan. I had included it in my timings but wanted to see snow conditions and see how my feet were in winter boots before making the final decision. Another plus of bagging the Corbett meant I would get cracking views over to Streap, a Corbett that is high on my To Do List.
We returned to the Bealach and slowly descended due to the ground being very slippy and wet. I made a diagonal towards the southern summit of Gulvain so as to miss the crags I could see below and also it made the descent easier.
- My descent off Gulvain into the Bealach
- Aiming for the shoulder of the Corbett ahead
This section to the flatter terrain at the bottom took a good 30 minutes and eventually I reached snow fields which I ploughed through to reach the lowest point. From here it was clear this was going to be a tough walk over rough terrain to the shoulder of Leac na Buidheig I was aiming for. Once I got to roughly the centre of the glen (Fraoch Mor) I took a rest on a nice hot rock, the dogs puddled in nearby small lochs and both came out black!! I was really starting to struggle here having to stop after about 20-30 meters of ascent. The weather was stunning though and the clear views pushed me onwards.
- Reaching the flatter part of the Bealach
- Braigh nan Uamhachan
We tramped over the minor knolls in the bealach and eventually reached the start of the shoulder up to the summit ridge. Another rest was taken then we set off up the shoulder, the views were stunning but I was making hard work of it. I reached one last snow field and once through it I was onto the ridge and to my left I could see the summit ahead.
- Summit of the Corbett ahead
The views were all I had wished for to Streap and the Glenfinnan Munros, I could see them from Gulvain but being that extra few kms closer made them better. Streap looked stunning and I can’t wait to get a shot at her! I lay on the summit on my back with one of the jackets out of my pack for a pillow for a good 20 mins, I was shattered plus the warm glow of the sun on my weathered face was good, I could feel the salty texture on my coupon so washed it off with water but this always makes my eyes sting as some gets in. I didn’t care. A text was sent to Mrs MacBean to let her know I was ok and was including the Corbett and that I’d be back around 19.30. I knew it was fish pie for tea so I scoffed my last sandwich so I was starving by the time I got back to the house.
- Summit dogs with Gulvain in background
I eventually had to pull myself away from my comfy resting place to start the walk along the ridge following a drystone dyke.
I didn’t want to follow this all the way along the ridge so planned on dropping down the steep shoulder of Sron Liath back to the inward track I took passing a squared off section of land bordered by a wall. After a few slips onto my arse I reached the soggy ground and made it to the path beside where the Allt a’Choire Reidh reaches Gleann Fionnlighe. I simply retraced my steps all the way back to the car, I had to stop for Ibuprofen and tightening of laces as the winter boots were starting to rub a bit. I reached the car and was delighted at the way the day had panned out, a Munro and a Corbett in a smashing location on a smashing Easter Sunday. I met up with a lovely Geordie couple I had met twice during the day and had a chat with them about their plans. I was hoping to go along to the Glenfinnan Monument as I wanted a picture of it in the fading light but that would have to wait as I was Hank Marvin and fesh (eh stuff that sweems in the sea) pie was on the menu!
On another note, I have taken around 8 ticks off the dogs since Sunday, little hitchhikers are officially back for the season
The Bean Machine now takes a weekend off from the Heils for wife related activities (Car boot sales and the likes, although clearing the garage means I will make room for more hill walking gear) so until next time….cheers