Heaven is a place on earth by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrOur three remaining Far Eastern Fells were not the easiest to link up sensibly, Options being a long circular from Swindale, or a route containing large sections of there and back from Mardale or Longsleddale. I eventually stumped for the Mardale route, starting with Branstree's North ridge. Branstree is a fell we have climbed before and due to it's somewhat dull nature it became synonymous with grassy lumps and the sound of "oh no not another Branstree!" has been a common cry from Grace over the years.
This route starts off very promisingly as the small path winds it's way up through crags and boulders in charming fashion, with beautiful cascades to your left adding to the scene. All to soon however the gradient eases and the features vanish leaving you with an expanse of rising grassy moorland. We stayed on the Mardale side to give us fine views over Haweswater but soon it became apparent that the grassy trod we were following was just traversing, not climbing the hillside. A brief direction change and some hard work brought us to the optimistically named Artle Crag where stands a superbly built cairn as apposed to the small pile of stones and dog bowl on the actual summit.
Round the Bend by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Lakeland Road by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
A Bit of a Slog by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Artle Crag by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Highest dog drinking bowl in England by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrWe barely paused on Branstree and set off down the peculiarly named, given it's on Branstree, Selside Brow towards our next target, This was a very quick and simple descent to the boggy col at the top of Mosedale. Any thoughts of dullness were forgotten by the huge temperature inversion to the South with cloud filling longsleddale making a spectacular sight. We've seen this phenomena a few times now but it never gets old. Thanks to the relatively dry weather of late the col was OK and the peat hags were easily avoided. The climb up Tarn Crag was a case of following the fence up the largely gentle gradient before heading of towards the flat summit. Here stands a peculiarity of this fell in the shape of a large survey column. The structure is repeated on the slopes of Branstree and Grey Crag and has weathered quite beautifully. The original purpose was apparently the construction of the Haweswater Aqueduct and must have been quite an undertaking before the days of helicopters dropping stones where you want them.
Longsleddale Inversion by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Looking down Mosedale by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Shippman Knotts by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Towards the Gatesgarth Pass by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
View from Tarn Crag by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Survey Column and Tarn by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Grace on Tarn Crag by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrWe had lunch here, enjoying the views of the dissipating inversion before returning to the fence to hopefully make a relatively dry crossing to Grey Crag. The country here is certainly not that which is typical of the Lakes, far more Pennine in character as it changes from crags to the boggy delights of the Shap fells. Fortunately the route wasn't too bad (especially as we had to return this way) and this remote Eastern outpost of the Lakes was bagged.
Hughie on Grey Crag by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrWe retraced our steps, apart from the diversion to Tarn Crag's summit and arrived back at the head of Mosedale to be confronted with the less than attractive sight of the initially steep slopes of Selside Brow. Following some slow trudging we left the wall and crossed over towards the survey column missing out on another visit to Branstree. (because I'm a merciful and benevolent leader
) We passed some stubborn snow patches, which Hughie enjoyed immensely on the way and declined to climb the nameless lump between Branstree and Selside before an easy gradient took us to our final Far Eastern Fell. Hazy but expansive views of the Pennies were our reward and we had a few moments rest to celebrate.
River of Snow by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Mad Dog Snow Swimming by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Stone Tardis by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
All done on Selside Pike by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Swindale with Pennines beyond by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrWe returned via the old Swindale/Mardale corpse road which granted us great views with Haweswater looking like Quicksilver in the afternoon sun and the beautiful cascades of Rowantreethwaite and Hopgil Becks reflecting just what a paradise Mardale can be and just how heartbreaking it must have been for the displaced families who had lived here for generations to leave.
Classic view from the Corpse Road by johnkaysleftleg, on FlickrThe Far Eastern Fells are often not classic Lakeland, although Mardale Head most certainly is, but in many ways they benefit from this, giving this wonderful district another, quieter string to it's bow. It will not be too long before I return to the delights of Mardale and its surrounds as I feel it will be impossible to stay away.
I had one of my best days, or at least half of my best weekend, on those hills - I love the empty spaces for walking in, rather than fiddly ups and downs! Think that says more about my odd tastes than the hills, though - they certainly had their boggy moments.
