The Proposed Big Route
The Plan B Route
Plan B is to do ben Aden and Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe from Loch Quioch, then drive round into Glen Dessarry and pick up what we can manage. Friday's got the best forecast, so Ben Aden will be done in good weather. We drive up to Kinloch Hourn, spending Thursday night in Coire Shubh. A sunny morning arrives, we drive along to the start of the walk and find a place to leave the car off the road - not too many spots near the beginning of the walk. It has been a while since we've been on an overnighter and there's a bit of anxiety about what's been left out the packs. All the recent snow has made packing (light)crampons and axes necessary which adds to the burden. Finally we;re off - the bridge over the Caolie Water looks a bit too scary for use so it's across the river - easy enough. Just mind the dead stag by the roadside which Allison managed to completely miss despite being 3 feet from it
There's the faintest of tracks that follows the lochside roundthen a more definate path once the corner is turned. The Dessarry Munros look stunning with a layer of new snow and the effect is enhanced whrn Sgurr na Ciche pops into view. Walking is little effort when there's such scenery to feast the eyes upon. No much space hereabouts to park
P1070274 by 23weasels, on FlickrBridge over Caolie Water - no thanks!
P1070276 by 23weasels, on FlickrWe'll take the wet route
P1070277 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Quoich
P1070279 by 23weasels, on FlickrTrack
P1070281 by 23weasels, on FlickrSgurr na Ciche comes into view
P1070282 by 23weasels, on FlickrWalking into this scene isn't bad...
P1070285 by 23weasels, on FlickrBen Aden appears
P1070287 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe next obstacle is the Abhain Chosaidh - fortunately the water level is quite low and crossing is easy. We're walking on the old road - which has been overgrown by moss and grass in places but nevertheless makes for easy going under foot. Ben Aden now begins to come into view to the right of Sgurr na Ciche, with Meall a'Choire Dhubh in front of it and the two small dams at the north west end of Loch Quoich. There doesn't look to be too much snow on Aden. We cross the dams, with their red lifebelts and rest behind a big boulder by Tom na Cruiache to have some lunch. Since we'll be returning this way we dump what we don't need and I take 1 rucksack leaving Allison to climb unburdened - like she has her own Sherpa
Starting out on the track I gag at the stench of two deer carcasses rotting 
We leave the track and start up the steepish flank of Meall a'Choire Dhubh, avoiding bands of crags. To our right is the undulating crest of Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe - tomorrow's climb, and to our left the rough lines of Garbh Chioch Bheag & Mhor. As we reach the summit of Meall a'Choire Dhubh we get a good look at Aden - there are plenty of crags and gullies holding snow, but there looks to be a straightforward line up the centre of the peak, heading to the left. We drop down into Bealach a Choire Chruaidh, navigate our way round lochans and snow beds, all the while aware of the knobbly might of Sgurr na Ciche to our left. I had hoped to include it in our walk today, but there's quite a drop down to the start - I reckon to about 550m. That means about two and a half hours added onto the day - that's not going to happen! Aden will suffice. Abhain Chosaidh
P1070294 by 23weasels, on FlickrMeall a'Choire Dhubh in front of Aden
P1070298 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070300 by 23weasels, on FlickrAden pano
P1070304 by 23weasels, on FlickrAden with the dams
P1070306 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070308 by 23weasels, on FlickrMeall a'Choire Dhubh/Aden
P1070309 by 23weasels, on FlickrView up Loch Quoich
P1070311 by 23weasels, on FlickrAscending Meall a'Choire Dhubh
P1070312 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe humphybackit Sgurr aChoire Bheithe
P1070313 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking to Aden summit
P1070318 by 23weasels, on FlickrGarbh Choich Mhor/ Sgurr na Ciche
P1070320 by 23weasels, on FlickrCiche/Aden pano
P1070322 by 23weasels, on FlickrThe remainder of the ascent of Aden is without incident - avoid the crags, skirt the rocky bits, occasionally a wee scramble. The views back along Loch Quioch are fine and as the summit is reached the view to Loch Nevis alluring. We spent a little time on top, marvelling at the scenery and pleased to have reached this out of the way lump of rock. We decided to descend into Coire na Chruaiche, following the river down. This would make for an easy ascent, although it misses out on the views you get topping out over Meall a'Choire Dhubh. We are watched by deer as we pick our way down, crossing and re-crossing the Allt as required by rocky walls. We can eventually make out the track heading to Lochan nam Breac below us - we still have to head back to Tom na Chruaiche to pick up the rucksack. At least going this way misses the dead deer. Re-acquainted with her burden, Allison groans a bit as we set off along a rather indistint path for the Lochan. I'd read there was a nice spot to camp on the beach at the east end of the lochan, so that's our aim, not far. we rise a little and suddenly the lochan open before us, hemmed in by the steep mountainsides we haven't been able to see it before now. Right enough there's a sandy beach at the end and we cross the shallow Allt to find some dry sand above the waterline which makes an ideal spot to pitch. We have Beaky, the lightweight tent and I'm never completely sure how to pitch the thing. After a few attempts we get something that looks to be serviceable (as long as there's not a big wind
) and weigh the pegs down with rocks before getting the stove out and cooking up a feast of noodles. A very peaceful night is passed with no cars, no people no nothing, just the lapping of the little wavelets on the sandy shore. Moving close to Aden summit
P1070323 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070331 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Quoich
P1070332 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070334 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070336 by 23weasels, on FlickrSgurr na Ciche
P1070338 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070341 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070344 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Nevis
P1070346 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit Aden
P1070348 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070349 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070353 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070354 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070356 by 23weasels, on FlickrDescent route - follow the river
P1070360 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070362 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch na Breac, Looney Bin beyond
P1070365 by 23weasels, on FlickrPitch
P1070368 by 23weasels, on FlickrMorning brings more glorious sunshine, although it remains cold. Looney Bin arises right in front of us, angular head decorated with snowy triangles. We breakfast, enjoy a cup of tea with added sand and prepare to go off up Man Unndalain towards Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe. I had paid little attention to the contours when route planning and am somewhat abashed to realise that we have to climb up to 550m before dropping down below 200m on the other side of the pass before we can go up the mountainside. Surely we might be able to just climb up direct from the pass and avoid losing all that height? To be honest I wasn't feeling very well -bit of a headache, sore throat and nausea and my legs felt like lead weights. We had a look at the side of the mountain near the top of the pass. There were lots of crags which looked like they could be weaved around. But we had big packs on and the wind was steadily rising, now at the buffetting stage. We clambered up the 565m knobble to have a better look, but I just didn't fancy trying to go up that way. Damn! - I hate losing height needlessly. We set off down the other side of the pass, crossing 3 deer skeletons on the track picked to the bones. At least they don't smell. Beinn Sgritheall looked superb on the other side of Loch Hourn. I called for an early lunch as we descended the track, looking over at the steep sides of Looney Bin. Didn't feel much revived but at least the nausea was subsiding. Set off up the steep grassy hillside after the last of the crags - grinding out the metres. On top of the ridge and things ease off - it's a very straightforward walk up the 816m rise, then over some soft snow to the summit at 913m - just a snifter under Munro height. The views down to Barrisdale Bay are sweet, Rhum on the skyline, Loch Quoich not looking too bad either.
Morning on Loch na Breac
P1070371 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070372 by 23weasels, on Flickrheading up Mam Unndalain
P1070376 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooney Bin to the R, Loch na Breac in distance
P1070377 by 23weasels, on FlickrCrags on Sgurr a'Choire-Bheithe - maybe not today
P1070378 by 23weasels, on FlickrBeinn Sgritheall
P1070383 by 23weasels, on FlickrHeartbreak -heading down the pass
P1070384 by 23weasels, on FlickrUp here
P1070385 by 23weasels, on FlickrTowards summit
P1070389 by 23weasels, on FlickrLadhar Bheinn/Sgritheall pano
P1070390 by 23weasels, on FlickrBarrisdale Bay
P1070391 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooney Bin
P1070394 by 23weasels, on FlickrBarrisdale
P1070396 by 23weasels, on FlickrSummit, looking up Loch Quoich
P1070402 by 23weasels, on FlickrRhum
P1070404 by 23weasels, on FlickrAnd to the west
P1070405 by 23weasels, on FlickrView along the ridge, heading east
P1070406 by 23weasels, on FlickrFrom here on in things get interesting. There are two rocky tops to be crossed over to progress along the ridge. The first involves a mild scramble down the far side, but the second outcrop is more awkward. It's quite exposed going up to the flat top section - an area of level rock that reminds me of a smaller scale version of Beinn Tarsuin's "tennis court" up in the Fisherfields. However coming down the east side is more problematic, especially with big packs. It looks like the north side is the easier route, but that;s choked with snow and it's a long way down. We think of lowering the packs down, but it seems likely given the small target to drop them on that they'll spin off the side of the mountain - not a good outcome. So gingerly I creep down, finding enough footholds to manage the troublesome section. Allison follows and with relief we're onto simple stuff from then on. But it just keeps on going - like the advert for Duracell Batteries the undulations never stop. Looking over to Loch Nevis the surface of the water is whey coloured - very strange. Snow showers come and go over Loch Quioch or Kintail, but seem to miss us each time. Onto the untidy top of Sgurr Airidh na Beinne then onwards, dropping some height to more mini-tops before we get to Meall an Spardain - officially the last bump along the long, long ridge - only of course it's not, there are still more bumps to go up and down after that. I'm tired and start to hallucinate - seeing bears appearing out of peat hags - oh Lordy! Finally we can see the shoreline of Loch Quioch below us - it's only a matter of time til we get back to the track. We meet with a path and follow this towards the Abhain Chosaidh, crossing just where a wonderful waterfall cuts through a fissure in the rock. Here we stop for some sustainance. It's time to break out the emergency malt loaf and brew a coffee with the Jetboil -ah the restorative powers of squidgy brown loaf. Recharged we cross the river and make for the return path. It seems a long way, but at least there are no more ups and downs to negotiate. Turning the corner of the shoreline we plod on across the marshy ground to the Caolie water and the car. It's just shy of 8pm - 11 hours walking - a big day by recent standards, especially with big packs. We're both famished and decide to head back to Coire Shubh to pitch and cook. Driving the few miles back along the road, hoping no-one else has nicked our spot. When we arrive a large herd of deer are in occupance, but melt away uphill as we draw up. A rapid tent pitch, a tasty South Indian Pepper Curry is conjured and devoured and we crash out as the rain starts. Really glad to have climbed these two hills - definately members of the "awkward squad". I just love Knoydart and feel blessed that we've had another couple of days with good weather - or at least good visibility for this most magical kingdom.
First of the rocky outcrops
P1070408 by 23weasels, on FlickrSecond and more awkward knobble
P1070411 by 23weasels, on FlickrWee tricky bit on descent
P1070415 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking back on the tricky bit
P1070417 by 23weasels, on FlickrLoch Nevis turned to whey
P1070418 by 23weasels, on FlickrTowards Sgurr Airidh na Beinne
P1070421 by 23weasels, on FlickrLooking back on the ridge
P1070423 by 23weasels, on FlickrMeall na spardain, Garich in the distance
P1070427 by 23weasels, on FlickrAlmost the last undulation
P1070431 by 23weasels, on FlickrWaterfall
P1070432 by 23weasels, on Flickr
P1070433 by 23weasels, on FlickrStats
P1070434 by 23weasels, on Flickr
- think you made the right choice - cheers 
