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Last Summer I was sat on top of Sgurr na Ciche looking across at Ben Aden. So close - yet so far it seemed. A challenging scramble down, then back up, we were already running on empty having come across from the Quoich Dam. I decided there would be another time. The months pass. Allison has unexpectedly got a Friday/Monday off - the elusive 4 day weekend. I hatch an audacious plan to head into Glen Dessarry and round up a number of awkward Corbetts in one swoop - 5 plus 3 Munros - oh yeah! We've been up for a bit of reconnaisance and the snow is almost away - let's do this thing!! Then the weather deteriorates and there's a big dump of snow across the northwestern hills. The weekend forecast is for gales and rain. 4 days into Knoydart is not to be. So what can be salvaged???
The Proposed Big Route
The Plan B Route
Plan B is to do ben Aden and Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe from Loch Quioch, then drive round into Glen Dessarry and pick up what we can manage. Friday's got the best forecast, so Ben Aden will be done in good weather. We drive up to Kinloch Hourn, spending Thursday night in Coire Shubh. A sunny morning arrives, we drive along to the start of the walk and find a place to leave the car off the road - not too many spots near the beginning of the walk. It has been a while since we've been on an overnighter and there's a bit of anxiety about what's been left out the packs. All the recent snow has made packing (light)crampons and axes necessary which adds to the burden. Finally we;re off - the bridge over the Caolie Water looks a bit too scary for use so it's across the river - easy enough. Just mind the dead stag by the roadside which Allison managed to completely miss despite being 3 feet from it
There's the faintest of tracks that follows the lochside roundthen a more definate path once the corner is turned. The Dessarry Munros look stunning with a layer of new snow and the effect is enhanced whrn Sgurr na Ciche pops into view. Walking is little effort when there's such scenery to feast the eyes upon.
No much space hereabouts to park
P1070274 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Bridge over Caolie Water - no thanks!
P1070276 by
23weasels, on Flickr
We'll take the wet route
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23weasels, on Flickr
Loch Quoich
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23weasels, on Flickr
Track
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23weasels, on Flickr
Sgurr na Ciche comes into view
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23weasels, on Flickr
Walking into this scene isn't bad...
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23weasels, on Flickr
Ben Aden appears
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23weasels, on Flickr
The next obstacle is the Abhain Chosaidh - fortunately the water level is quite low and crossing is easy. We're walking on the old road - which has been overgrown by moss and grass in places but nevertheless makes for easy going under foot. Ben Aden now begins to come into view to the right of Sgurr na Ciche, with Meall a'Choire Dhubh in front of it and the two small dams at the north west end of Loch Quoich. There doesn't look to be too much snow on Aden. We cross the dams, with their red lifebelts and rest behind a big boulder by Tom na Cruiache to have some lunch. Since we'll be returning this way we dump what we don't need and I take 1 rucksack leaving Allison to climb unburdened - like she has her own Sherpa
Starting out on the track I gag at the stench of two deer carcasses rotting
We leave the track and start up the steepish flank of Meall a'Choire Dhubh, avoiding bands of crags. To our right is the undulating crest of Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe - tomorrow's climb, and to our left the rough lines of Garbh Chioch Bheag & Mhor. As we reach the summit of Meall a'Choire Dhubh we get a good look at Aden - there are plenty of crags and gullies holding snow, but there looks to be a straightforward line up the centre of the peak, heading to the left. We drop down into Bealach a Choire Chruaidh, navigate our way round lochans and snow beds, all the while aware of the knobbly might of Sgurr na Ciche to our left. I had hoped to include it in our walk today, but there's quite a drop down to the start - I reckon to about 550m. That means about two and a half hours added onto the day - that's not going to happen! Aden will suffice.
Abhain Chosaidh
P1070294 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Meall a'Choire Dhubh in front of Aden
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Aden pano
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23weasels, on Flickr
Aden with the dams
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Meall a'Choire Dhubh/Aden
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23weasels, on Flickr
View up Loch Quoich
P1070311 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Ascending Meall a'Choire Dhubh
P1070312 by
23weasels, on Flickr
The humphybackit Sgurr aChoire Bheithe
P1070313 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Looking to Aden summit
P1070318 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Garbh Choich Mhor/ Sgurr na Ciche
P1070320 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Ciche/Aden pano
P1070322 by
23weasels, on Flickr
The remainder of the ascent of Aden is without incident - avoid the crags, skirt the rocky bits, occasionally a wee scramble. The views back along Loch Quioch are fine and as the summit is reached the view to Loch Nevis alluring. We spent a little time on top, marvelling at the scenery and pleased to have reached this out of the way lump of rock. We decided to descend into Coire na Chruaiche, following the river down. This would make for an easy ascent, although it misses out on the views you get topping out over Meall a'Choire Dhubh. We are watched by deer as we pick our way down, crossing and re-crossing the Allt as required by rocky walls. We can eventually make out the track heading to Lochan nam Breac below us - we still have to head back to Tom na Chruaiche to pick up the rucksack. At least going this way misses the dead deer. Re-acquainted with her burden, Allison groans a bit as we set off along a rather indistint path for the Lochan. I'd read there was a nice spot to camp on the beach at the east end of the lochan, so that's our aim, not far. we rise a little and suddenly the lochan open before us, hemmed in by the steep mountainsides we haven't been able to see it before now. Right enough there's a sandy beach at the end and we cross the shallow Allt to find some dry sand above the waterline which makes an ideal spot to pitch. We have Beaky, the lightweight tent and I'm never completely sure how to pitch the thing. After a few attempts we get something that looks to be serviceable (as long as there's not a big wind
) and weigh the pegs down with rocks before getting the stove out and cooking up a feast of noodles. A very peaceful night is passed with no cars, no people no nothing, just the lapping of the little wavelets on the sandy shore.
Moving close to Aden summit
P1070323 by
23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Loch Quoich
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Sgurr na Ciche
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Loch Nevis
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23weasels, on Flickr
Summit Aden
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Descent route - follow the river
P1070360 by
23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Loch na Breac, Looney Bin beyond
P1070365 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Pitch
P1070368 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Morning brings more glorious sunshine, although it remains cold. Looney Bin arises right in front of us, angular head decorated with snowy triangles. We breakfast, enjoy a cup of tea with added sand and prepare to go off up Man Unndalain towards Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe. I had paid little attention to the contours when route planning and am somewhat abashed to realise that we have to climb up to 550m before dropping down below 200m on the other side of the pass before we can go up the mountainside. Surely we might be able to just climb up direct from the pass and avoid losing all that height? To be honest I wasn't feeling very well -bit of a headache, sore throat and nausea and my legs felt like lead weights. We had a look at the side of the mountain near the top of the pass. There were lots of crags which looked like they could be weaved around. But we had big packs on and the wind was steadily rising, now at the buffetting stage. We clambered up the 565m knobble to have a better look, but I just didn't fancy trying to go up that way. Damn! - I hate losing height needlessly. We set off down the other side of the pass, crossing 3 deer skeletons on the track picked to the bones. At least they don't smell. Beinn Sgritheall looked superb on the other side of Loch Hourn. I called for an early lunch as we descended the track, looking over at the steep sides of Looney Bin. Didn't feel much revived but at least the nausea was subsiding. Set off up the steep grassy hillside after the last of the crags - grinding out the metres. On top of the ridge and things ease off - it's a very straightforward walk up the 816m rise, then over some soft snow to the summit at 913m - just a snifter under Munro height. The views down to Barrisdale Bay are sweet, Rhum on the skyline, Loch Quoich not looking too bad either.
Morning on Loch na Breac
P1070371 by
23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
heading up Mam Unndalain
P1070376 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Looney Bin to the R, Loch na Breac in distance
P1070377 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Crags on Sgurr a'Choire-Bheithe - maybe not today
P1070378 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Beinn Sgritheall
P1070383 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Heartbreak -heading down the pass
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23weasels, on Flickr
Up here
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23weasels, on Flickr
Towards summit
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23weasels, on Flickr
Ladhar Bheinn/Sgritheall pano
P1070390 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Barrisdale Bay
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23weasels, on Flickr
Looney Bin
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23weasels, on Flickr
Barrisdale
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23weasels, on Flickr
Summit, looking up Loch Quoich
P1070402 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Rhum
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23weasels, on Flickr
And to the west
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23weasels, on Flickr
View along the ridge, heading east
P1070406 by
23weasels, on Flickr
From here on in things get interesting. There are two rocky tops to be crossed over to progress along the ridge. The first involves a mild scramble down the far side, but the second outcrop is more awkward. It's quite exposed going up to the flat top section - an area of level rock that reminds me of a smaller scale version of Beinn Tarsuin's "tennis court" up in the Fisherfields. However coming down the east side is more problematic, especially with big packs. It looks like the north side is the easier route, but that;s choked with snow and it's a long way down. We think of lowering the packs down, but it seems likely given the small target to drop them on that they'll spin off the side of the mountain - not a good outcome. So gingerly I creep down, finding enough footholds to manage the troublesome section. Allison follows and with relief we're onto simple stuff from then on. But it just keeps on going - like the advert for Duracell Batteries the undulations never stop. Looking over to Loch Nevis the surface of the water is whey coloured - very strange. Snow showers come and go over Loch Quioch or Kintail, but seem to miss us each time. Onto the untidy top of Sgurr Airidh na Beinne then onwards, dropping some height to more mini-tops before we get to Meall an Spardain - officially the last bump along the long, long ridge - only of course it's not, there are still more bumps to go up and down after that. I'm tired and start to hallucinate - seeing bears appearing out of peat hags - oh Lordy! Finally we can see the shoreline of Loch Quioch below us - it's only a matter of time til we get back to the track. We meet with a path and follow this towards the Abhain Chosaidh, crossing just where a wonderful waterfall cuts through a fissure in the rock. Here we stop for some sustainance. It's time to break out the emergency malt loaf and brew a coffee with the Jetboil -ah the restorative powers of squidgy brown loaf. Recharged we cross the river and make for the return path. It seems a long way, but at least there are no more ups and downs to negotiate. Turning the corner of the shoreline we plod on across the marshy ground to the Caolie water and the car. It's just shy of 8pm - 11 hours walking - a big day by recent standards, especially with big packs. We're both famished and decide to head back to Coire Shubh to pitch and cook. Driving the few miles back along the road, hoping no-one else has nicked our spot. When we arrive a large herd of deer are in occupance, but melt away uphill as we draw up. A rapid tent pitch, a tasty South Indian Pepper Curry is conjured and devoured and we crash out as the rain starts. Really glad to have climbed these two hills - definately members of the "awkward squad". I just love Knoydart and feel blessed that we've had another couple of days with good weather - or at least good visibility for this most magical kingdom.
First of the rocky outcrops
P1070408 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Second and more awkward knobble
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23weasels, on Flickr
Wee tricky bit on descent
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23weasels, on Flickr
Looking back on the tricky bit
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23weasels, on Flickr
Loch Nevis turned to whey
P1070418 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Towards Sgurr Airidh na Beinne
P1070421 by
23weasels, on Flickr
Looking back on the ridge
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23weasels, on Flickr
Meall na spardain, Garich in the distance
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23weasels, on Flickr
Almost the last undulation
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23weasels, on Flickr
Waterfall
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23weasels, on Flickr
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23weasels, on Flickr
Stats
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23weasels, on Flickr
