Beinn Bhreac - It's a Long Way (from anywhere)

[Gordie12]

This walk has been in my head for months now. I tried it last month but there was too much snow still lying on the higher ground so bailed out but promised myself I'd get back before the end of May - just made it.

Most would do this hill from Bridge of Tilt but I enjoy the walk in from Calvine on the Minigaig track so this was my route. Parked the car opposite the old petrol station and was walking for 6am (it's also a good time to cross the A9).

Having negotiated the A9 there is then a steep section of track as it climbs out of the valley floor. The steep section doesn't last long and as soon as you reach the open moor and a hut on the right the sharp climb is over and while the track will still be climbing for another couple of miles the ascent is much gentler.

early morning light

It took me an hour to reach the point where I could see Glen Bruar open up in front of me.

Glen Bruar with Beinn Dearg in the distance

So finally, after an hour the track stops climbing and there is a steep descent down in to Glen Bruar. Normally this would be a good feeling but with every step the mind wanders to the return as this climb is tough at the end of a long day (this is my 3rd trip up this glen so I know what to expect much later in the day).

The next stretch as far as Bruar Lodge is long and on a very gentle incline. The Bruar hydro scheme works are continuing so the glen is a bit of a mess just now but hopefully once the rubbish is removed and the heather reclaims the open ground things will look a lot better. When I was up here in April it was a Friday and with another early start I was offered four lifts by the workers on their way to clock on (and two offers on the way back - all refused!) - being a Saturday there was no white van traffic.

Bruar Water below the 1st dam - Bruar Falls can't be much to look at..........

The site office is five miles up the track from the A9 and beyond that Bruar Lodge is reached followed by a short walk to the point where the stalkers path heads towards Beinn Dearg (opposite the new dam). It took just under 2.5 hrs to get from the car to the start of the stalkers track.

Bruar Lodge

Bruar Lodge

That's the fast paced walking over for a while as the climb starts on the north side of Allt Beinn Losgarnaich up the stalkers path towards the watershed below Beinn Dearg.

Looking back

Looking forward

As the track peters out it's now time to start hopping and jumping about as I meander through the watershed. Having passed the point where I branched off for Beinn Dearg last year it was a surprise to find that the ground levelled off and was a bit drier. To my left I noticed a cairn so headed over and found a decent faint path that I could follow.

track through the watershed

And finally, after 3hrs and 30 minutes........................I can SEE the hill I'm heading for - this is going to be a long day

target in view

Having cleared the watershed I dropped down towards the Allt a' Chuil. Having lost the track I found another one that was heading more for An Sligearnach than Beinn Bhreac but looking at the ground ahead of me that was fine as it looked like the drier and easier option. The burn crossing was easy and it was then time to start the climb towards the eastern side of An Sligearnach. It's a case of picking a route and trying to stick to the drier ground, sometimes there looks to be the outline of a feint track but as soon as you think you have something to follow it disappears.

For a while after crossing the burn Beinn Bhreac disappears from view then all of a sudden, there it is, right in front of me.

After a final descent to cross a burn at the foot of Beinn Bhreac the final climb to the top begins. Initially, damp and heathery it's a great feeling when I reach the point where the heather is only a couple of inches high and the gradient eases. Thereafter the heather finishes and it is more grassy/mossy for the final long climb along a broad ridge to the summit.

nearly there

The final climb to the top was easy but it seemed to go on forever, but finally, 4hrs 55mins after leaving the car in Calvine I had arrived at the top of Beinn Bhreac

summit pic

Looking over to Beinn Dearg

The wind is much stronger on the higher ground and with the sun long gone it's pretty cool, I could easily have gone for the gloves but I knew that in ten minutes I'd be well off the top (and it's nearly June!!) and things would warm up a bit.

Time to head for home, my route from the watershed below Beinn Dearg to the summit worked for me so I decided to stick as close to that route as was possible.

Allt a' Chuil

looking up towards the watershed from the Allt a' Chuil

looking over to Beinn Bhreac

Once up on the watershed I found the path from the outward journey and stayed with it, to my surprise it went on for ages before depositing me about 100yds from where the track up from Bruar petered out so far less bog avoidance required on the way back.

Now that I was back on the path below Beinn Dearg it was a steep descent down to the Minigaig.

Looking back to the stalkers path from the main track to the north of Bruar Lodge

the new dam

At the lodge I met 3 guys who had stopped for lunch - the only people I saw all day. I had a bit of "jelly legs" after the rougher walking and it took a bit of time to get a stride going again now that I was back on the flat wide track but eventually I got going again.

hopefully these will be removed

From Bruar Lodge down to the site office for the hydro works there is a gradual descent which the legs seem happy with, after the site office my eyes are drawn to that final climb of the day which is still 30 minutes away.

And so, after 23 miles it's time for this.....

the pic doesn't do it justice and there is more of a climb out of view

The temptation to stop for a "photo opportunity" was in my mind but in the end I just got the head down and did the climb. At the top it felt good to know that that was the climbing over for the day and I had the last 3 miles to cover on a gentle descent then steeper for the final bit down to the A9.

I got lucky at the A9 crossing and only had to wait for a couple of cars to pass before crossing and heading through Calvine back to the car.

For those that deal in old money (like myself) this walk came in at 26.7 miles. It took exactly 9hrs 30 mins (including 21 minutes stopped time). Prior to doing this walk I read Johnny Corbett's report and he took 6hrs, cycling in from Calvine. I choose not to use the bike but this is certainly one hill where it makes sense.

In the words of WH..........

Beinn Bhreac is an exceptionally remote hill in the empty wildernesses between the Cairngorms and Atholl. One for the real enthusiast.

I think I agree.

[Beaner001]

A hell of a long walk that Gordie, never seen that approach before, well done
I may try to include this one in the Tarf and Tilt round of two Corbetts and four Munros, with a stay in the Tarf bothy
Cheers

[gaffr]

Yes, these Bhreacs are hard to reach.
Having been to Dearg before from Calvine. I chose the similar route to reach Beinn Bhreac using, as before, the bike to get to the river Bruar then park the bike before crossing the river and then by the Allt Sheicheachan bothy to the path up to Beinn Dearg and then across the peat to visit Beinn Bhreac. I returned over Dearg to get back to the bike.
The crossing of the river would, I guess, be only be an option in lower water conditions. I've never been past the 'front door' of the Lodge having opted for the river crossing when coming from Feshie/Leathad an Taobhain to continue via Tilt and Geldie to get back to Feshie and Kincraig again on the bike. Enjoyable days out in the remote terrain.

[Gordie12]

A hell of a long walk that Gordie, never seen that approach before, well done
I may try to include this one in the Tarf and Tilt round of two Corbetts and four Munros, with a stay in the Tarf bothy
Cheers

Sounds like a far more sensible plan than mine.

[Gordie12]

Yes, these Bhreacs are hard to reach.
Having been to Dearg before from Calvine. I chose the similar route to reach Beinn Bhreac using, as before, the bike to get to the river Bruar then park the bike before crossing the river and then by the Allt Sheicheachan bothy to the path up to Beinn Dearg and then across the peat to visit Beinn Bhreac. I returned over Dearg to get back to the bike.
The crossing of the river would, I guess, be only be an option in lower water conditions. I've never been past the 'front door' of the Lodge having opted for the river crossing when coming from Feshie/Leathad an Taobhain to continue via Tilt and Geldie to get back to Feshie and Kincraig again on the bike. Enjoyable days out in the remote terrain.

It certainly is remote terrain and you seem to know it really well.

One of these days I'll maybe get the bike out of the garage and try this cycling/walking thing............

[Graeme D]

Good work Gordie. I fancy combining this one with a night in the Tarf Hotel when I finally get round to it.

[Sunset tripper]

Good going Gordie. Thats a long walk! I did it from bridge of tilt a couple of years back. Cycled past the bothy below Beinn Dearg to where the track changes to a path. Then walked over Beinn Dearg to Beinn Bhreac then over the summit of Beinn Dearg again on the way back a bit like gaffr. The bike was great for the way back. Your right about the remoteness. Also i remember no turbines visible from the summit

[BlackPanther]

I agree this is a hill for real enthusiasts. I think I'm enthusiastic enough to tackle it! Don't know if we manage it this year, so many hills planned, so many routes on to-do list... But BB is on the radar for sure...
We will be taking bikes, definitely. Thanks for details on the route - really helpful.

[Dunni]

That Looks exactly, what I have in mind for my next visit. What a great place to be alone with ones thoughts! Well done!

The building with the red Roof safed me from a Blizzard once I came over from Aviemore via Lairig Ghru. I stayed there dry and cosy, with the storm howling through the open Windows.

[Gordie12]

Good work Gordie. I fancy combining this one with a night in the Tarf Hotel when I finally get round to it.

Thanks Graeme - hope you are well.

[Gordie12]

Good going Gordie. Thats a long walk! I did it from bridge of tilt a couple of years back. Cycled past the bothy below Beinn Dearg to where the track changes to a path. Then walked over Beinn Dearg to Beinn Bhreac then over the summit of Beinn Dearg again on the way back a bit like gaffr. The bike was great for the way back. Your right about the remoteness. Also i remember no turbines visible from the summit

Hi Sunset tripper

A year ago I did Beinn Dearg by the same route (from Calvine). I remember catching a couple up and was nearly level with them when I branched off for Beinn Dearg and they carried straight on. I remember thinking, I wonder where they are going?? If only I had done my homework, I could have done both that day albeit it would have made for a long day of walking.

[Gordie12]

I agree this is a hill for real enthusiasts. I think I'm enthusiastic enough to tackle it! Don't know if we manage it this year, so many hills planned, so many routes on to-do list... But BB is on the radar for sure...
We will be taking bikes, definitely. Thanks for details on the route - really helpful.

I think you probably are enthusiastic enough to tackle it BP!!!

You seem much better organised than me if you already have your year planned out.

[Gordie12]

That Looks exactly, what I have in mind for my next visit. What a great place to be alone with ones thoughts! Well done!

The building with the red Roof safed me from a Blizzard once I came over from Aviemore via Lairig Ghru. I stayed there dry and cosy, with the storm howling through the open Windows.

Hi Dunni - one group of 3 people and that was all I saw on a Saturday - I think you will probably get all the peace and quiet you want to be alone with your thoughts - hope you enjoy it.

[Graeme D]

Aye, I'm good, cheers Gordie. Just not getting out in the hills enough these days!