Beinn Chabhair - getting burnt in the bog

[rjlellison]

After a relaxing night camping on the shores of Loch Lubnaig, we got off to a somewhat later-than-planned start from Invararnan, leaving the carpark at 9:45am. The sun was already trying to push it's way through the clouds and the tour buses and many west-highland-way wanderers were passing us as we got booted up, deciding that suncream could wait until required...poor call!

Loch Lubnaig by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Loch Lubnaig by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Loch Lubnaig by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr


A short walk along the road and a right turn brought us through the well-trampled Beinnglas Farm, a popular spot for nights on the WHW, but today it was the start of a rather strenuous hike!
Straight away the path up behind the farm was clearly very steep, with a few deer fences to clamber over, but the views back over Inverarnan quickly became very rewarding!
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Following the river up the steep hill meant some great opportunities to photograph the waterfalls, which can actually be seen from the carpark at Inverarnan

Eventually the uphill struggle levels off, but don't get your hopes up, this is where the fun in the bog begins!
Best advice here would be to keep close to the river. Sticking right to the bank and following every meander would mean walking a longer distance, but trying to make your way through a rather featuresless bog slight to the left would take just as long and, from our experience, is rather unpleasant hard work!
Still, the weather was fantastic and the views of An Caisteal and Beinn Chabhair and frequent waterfalls certainly kept our spirits up through what is a long slog through the bog.
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

Eventually, after what seems like an age, we found ourselves at Lochan Beinn Chabhair, surrounded by the rocky outcrops of the namesake itself, and a great lunch stop in the brightening sunshine. Note that this isn't what is described on the WH route description, however, it certainly makes for a clear route up and we couldn't identify the route described on the Beinn Chabhair from Inverarnan route page.

Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

I would certainly recommend a good rest here, as the next part of the walk is yet another challenge. The path is pretty obvious, following a small stream up toward Meall nan Tarmachan, which is almost identical to that marked on the WH route map, although much easier to find than described. You quickly find yourself well above the Lochan and soon we were walking across relatively even ground, with several small lochans making great photo features across the rocky outcrops.
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

After some undulation around and over the numerous outcrops, the summit comes into view, the aches in the legs seem to dissipate and the slog through the bog seems like a distant memory. The sun came out just as we reached the summit and, although the wind had picked up, we spent a short time for a snack and to grab the standard summit shots, with cracking views back down the route of ascent as well as over to Loch Long.

Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

Dreading the descent back through the bog, we made our way back, retracing our tracks back down to the edge of the Lochan, admiring the stunning views all the way.

Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

Thankfully the walk back seemed to take significantly less time, perhaps due to our increased confidence in our route, and walking beside the river with views out over the neighbouring peaks giving a wonderful horizon to aim for.

Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr
Beinn Chabhair by Ruaraidh Ellison, on Flickr

Before long we were back at the top of the steep section back down to the farm, at which point we came across a separate path, slightly higher up, which I suspect must be the one described as "Where the path forks, the higher path is a better route," in the WH route description. To be honest, there is very little difference between them and being beside the river is certainly more pleasant than climbing even more steeply than necessary!
To add to the joys of the bog, we returned to the car tired and extremely sunburnt, to find a pack of molten chocolate twirls that 'somebody' had decided would be a nice treat for the drive home...good one!

An enjoyable day out despite being a bit of a slog, with great company and excellent views from the summit, but I would suggest best avoided in dubious weather.