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North Buttress, Buachaille.

North Buttress, Buachaille.


Postby gman » Wed Jul 01, 2015 7:15 pm

Munros included on this walk: Stob Dearg (Buachaille Etive Mor)

Date walked: 01/07/2015

Time taken: 4.5 hours

Distance: 6.5 km

Ascent: 843m

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North Buttress actual.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



Haven't done this one before, but after reading LeathySuburbs report I thought I'd have to give it a go. Very warm this morning but there was a light breeze.
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Round to the two boulders.
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Crossed the burn at Great Gully then the path to North Buttress immediately branches off to the right. The path stays towards the right hand side, I veered off and had a scramble up.
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Steep bit zoomed in, the crack towards the middle of the buttress is where things get interesting.
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Start of the crack, there's a grassy ramp going up to the left.
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Ledge gets narrow.
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Then up the crack, I had Scrambles in Lochaber with me and the suggested route goes to the right soon after the start of the crack but I just followed it upwards instead.
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A few sections feel more like a climb than a scramble and you pass ropes and nuts on the way up, all the holds felt very secure though.
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Crack continues after a break.
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Kingshouse.
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More scrambling higher up.
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Crowberry Tower.
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Getting near Stob Dearg, have to agree that this is a bit more of a challenge than Curved Ridge and probably the best route I've done on the Buachaille.
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Reached the top with a sense of achievement and felt like a ninja scambler. Decided to head down Great Gully Buttress (which I've done before) but took a wrong turn and ended up crossing a loose boulder field. There's a fine line between a ninja and a numpty. Finally got on track.
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Slabs on the way down, bit of scrambling towards the centre or it's pretty much a walk down on a path.
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At the bottom of Great Gully Buttress, North Buttress on the left.
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby jamesb63 » Wed Jul 01, 2015 8:57 pm

Really itching to do Buachaille by 1 of the scrambles :D but would like company to keep me right
looks a great day was had and perfect weather well done :clap: :clap:
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby Alteknacker » Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:34 pm

Wow, that looks like a really brilliant route! I enjoyed the Curved Ridge, and this sounds better! Thanks for reporting on it. One to really consider if one has a few hours to spare when crossing Rannoch Moor. :D
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby BoyVertiginous » Wed Jul 01, 2015 11:30 pm

Cheers for bringing back, mainly good, memories of that route. Did this 3 or 4 years back and almost backed-out several times and didn't know for sure until I was stood directly below it that I was prepared to give it a go. Glad I did, it's a great route and have since done traverses of An Teallach and AE, aong others, as well as Curved Ridge /Crowberry Tower and Pinnacle Ridge (Garbh Bheinn), none of which would have been attempted had I not taken those first tentative steps up the North Buttress.

That little grassy ledge still gives me the creeps though.
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby Mal Grey » Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:54 pm

That looks like the sort of thing I would have loved 20 years ago, and the sort of thing to give me nightmares today! I really need to get back into scrambling. Great report.
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby LeithySuburbs » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:56 pm

Thought you'd like it. Don't think it will be too long before I have another shot at it :) .
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby gman » Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:45 pm

LeithySuburbs wrote:Thought you'd like it. Don't think it will be too long before I have another shot at it :) .

Yeah, good call! :D
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby mgmt! » Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:23 pm

looks a lot different from when i did it last winter, i done it once before as a climb and cant recall a grass ledge ? nice route summer or winter none the less.
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby malky_c » Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:01 am

Looks like some nice warm rock :) . Pretty sure I've done this route some time ago in the rain - my sister had a bit of a shit-fit on the crux crack. Must've been a long time ago. It'd probably be me freaking out now :roll:
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby gman » Fri Jul 03, 2015 1:25 pm

mgmt! wrote:looks a lot different from when i did it last winter, i done it once before as a climb and cant recall a grass ledge ? nice route summer or winter none the less.


The ledge is right at the start of the crack, you can go to the right then left up a narrow ramp - you'd probably miss it in winter.

malky_c wrote:Looks like some nice warm rock :) . Pretty sure I've done this route some time ago in the rain - my sister had a bit of a shit-fit on the crux crack. Must've been a long time ago. It'd probably be me freaking out now :roll:


I waited for good weather to avoid this :D . It gets the sun in the morning so it'll dry quickly in summer.

Should also mention that it's easy to dislodge stones in the crack so a helmet might be a good idea if there are groups ahead of you.
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby basscadet » Fri Jul 03, 2015 5:39 pm

Thanks for posting - looks like you had a braw day, andas I will no doubt get dragged up there soon if Dougie has anything to do with it, its good to get more of a heads up about what it will involve :)
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Re: North Buttress, Buachaille.

Postby rocket-ron » Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:51 pm

great report some times. best to do these kind off routes on your own. unlesss your with more experinced folk
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