North Buttress, Buachaille.

[gman]

North Buttress actual.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Haven't done this one before, but after reading LeathySuburbs report I thought I'd have to give it a go. Very warm this morning but there was a light breeze.


Round to the two boulders.


Crossed the burn at Great Gully then the path to North Buttress immediately branches off to the right. The path stays towards the right hand side, I veered off and had a scramble up.


Steep bit zoomed in, the crack towards the middle of the buttress is where things get interesting.


Start of the crack, there's a grassy ramp going up to the left.


Ledge gets narrow.


Then up the crack, I had Scrambles in Lochaber with me and the suggested route goes to the right soon after the start of the crack but I just followed it upwards instead.


A few sections feel more like a climb than a scramble and you pass ropes and nuts on the way up, all the holds felt very secure though.


Crack continues after a break.








Kingshouse.


More scrambling higher up.


Crowberry Tower.


Getting near Stob Dearg, have to agree that this is a bit more of a challenge than Curved Ridge and probably the best route I've done on the Buachaille.


Reached the top with a sense of achievement and felt like a ninja scambler. Decided to head down Great Gully Buttress (which I've done before) but took a wrong turn and ended up crossing a loose boulder field. There's a fine line between a ninja and a numpty. Finally got on track.


Slabs on the way down, bit of scrambling towards the centre or it's pretty much a walk down on a path.




At the bottom of Great Gully Buttress, North Buttress on the left.

[jamesb63]

Really itching to do Buachaille by 1 of the scrambles but would like company to keep me right
looks a great day was had and perfect weather well done

[Alteknacker]

Wow, that looks like a really brilliant route! I enjoyed the Curved Ridge, and this sounds better! Thanks for reporting on it. One to really consider if one has a few hours to spare when crossing Rannoch Moor.

[BoyVertiginous]

Cheers for bringing back, mainly good, memories of that route. Did this 3 or 4 years back and almost backed-out several times and didn't know for sure until I was stood directly below it that I was prepared to give it a go. Glad I did, it's a great route and have since done traverses of An Teallach and AE, aong others, as well as Curved Ridge /Crowberry Tower and Pinnacle Ridge (Garbh Bheinn), none of which would have been attempted had I not taken those first tentative steps up the North Buttress.

That little grassy ledge still gives me the creeps though.

[Mal Grey]

That looks like the sort of thing I would have loved 20 years ago, and the sort of thing to give me nightmares today! I really need to get back into scrambling. Great report.

[LeithySuburbs]

Thought you'd like it. Don't think it will be too long before I have another shot at it .

[gman]

Thought you'd like it. Don't think it will be too long before I have another shot at it .

Yeah, good call!

[mgmt!]

looks a lot different from when i did it last winter, i done it once before as a climb and cant recall a grass ledge ? nice route summer or winter none the less.

[malky_c]

Looks like some nice warm rock . Pretty sure I've done this route some time ago in the rain - my sister had a bit of a shit-fit on the crux crack. Must've been a long time ago. It'd probably be me freaking out now

[gman]

looks a lot different from when i did it last winter, i done it once before as a climb and cant recall a grass ledge ? nice route summer or winter none the less.

The ledge is right at the start of the crack, you can go to the right then left up a narrow ramp - you'd probably miss it in winter.

Looks like some nice warm rock . Pretty sure I've done this route some time ago in the rain - my sister had a bit of a shit-fit on the crux crack. Must've been a long time ago. It'd probably be me freaking out now

I waited for good weather to avoid this . It gets the sun in the morning so it'll dry quickly in summer.

Should also mention that it's easy to dislodge stones in the crack so a helmet might be a good idea if there are groups ahead of you.

[basscadet]

Thanks for posting - looks like you had a braw day, andas I will no doubt get dragged up there soon if Dougie has anything to do with it, its good to get more of a heads up about what it will involve

[rocket-ron]

great report some times. best to do these kind off routes on your own. unlesss your with more experinced folk