A Great Weekend in Skye

[jupe1407]

Since our first visit to Skye together in May 2013, despite four days of utterly atrocious weather, and a further two visits to the island, again featuring atrocious weather would be enough to put most folk off. However Anne and I love the place, it's a photographers' paradise, even in dodgy weather, and there's something special about the journey to get there as well. I love the drive past Lochs Laggan and Lochy, the wee cairns overlooking Loch Loyne then the dramatic drive through the formidable mountains of Glen Shiel.

And so it was time for another visit. Initially I had formed a plan to summit camp on Sgurr na Stri on Friday, before moving to our more homely comforts at the wonderful Pier House Apartment in Elgol. However, a crap forecast for Friday night, and difficulty in getting enough time off work put the kibosh on that idea, so we headed through on Saturday, the weather initially as forecast was terrible, but once we got to Loch Duich, things improved, so we nipped half a mile up the Lochcarron road to a car park with a fine view of the Sisters.

The Five Sisters of Kintail

After some faffing around taking various other photos, we headed to Kyle of Lochalsh to get some provisions (alcohol) and continued on to Elgol via Broadford. It's around 16 miles on a single track road, which is tremendous fun when there's been a wedding in Elgol and all the guests are driving home

We eventually arrived at Pier House, a wonderful apartment we found on this site. We unpacked then spent some time staring at the view from the living room window. I'd highly recommend this place to anyone looking for fine 2-person accommodation.

The View

After wolfing down a chicken Balti for tea, we watched Andy Murray win his match and decided to take the short walk to the beach to photograph the sunset, as the tide was now heading out. It was a beautiful night.

Elgol Sunset

Unfortunately doom in insect form lay in wait. We decide to walk along the beach then get up to the cliff path. The midges were ferocious. I took one shot and almost ran back to the shore. Anne stuck around and now resembles a human dartboard. There was no respite from them at all and we soon headed back to the apartment, doubtless pursued by a cloud of midges.

The following morning, we decided to tackle something quite easy. My knees are still gubbed, so any form of mountain, or remotely strenuous hillwalk was out of the question. It had been a couple of years since we'd first walked out to Camasunary bothy, so we settled on this lovely walk again. This makes up one leg of the Elgol Coastal Circuit, though we wouldn't be doing the whole thing.

It's a short drive to the start point at Kilmarie and the ample car parking on the roadside.

We started off in overcast conditions, but in truth, just grateful not to be getting an absolute soaking.

Anne ready for the off

The walk is pretty straightforward, following a wide track over the Am Mam pass, which then drops down to Camasunary Bay. We passed a couple of young lads on the way in and stopped near the top of the pass to take in the views.

Back to Kilmarie

From only a short distance into the walk Bla-Bheinn is dark, looming presence, as it's long South Ridge gradually becomes more prominent. It's a fantastic looking mountain from any angle, but the approach from Am Mam looks particularly tasty.

Bla-Bheinn

We had a wee bite to eat once we'd found a suitably breezy (and therefore midge-free) spot As had been the case on our previous trip here, the main Cuillin ridge was shrouded in cloud, down to about 700m or so and it was still pretty overcast. Unsure if the bothy was still accessible or not (see MalGrey's recent trip) we decided to have a wander down anyway. On the way, we encountered the somewhat surreal sight of a road-going Honda Motorbike, just before the u-bend in the route where the south ridge path cuts off.

Here it is:

Motorbike

I was quite impressed that someone had doubtless pushed the thing most of the way here from Kilmarie. We reckoned the bike belonged to a couple of cheerful youths we saw on the way down to the beach. Not content with having pushed the bike beyond the top of Am Mam, they'd gone down to the beach, walked back up the steep shortcut, pushed it back out to Kilmarie, then walked back in again, presumably to crash out in the bothy

We followed the the usual track past the cottage, and out to the bothy, which hadn't changed a bit since our last visit. There's certainly no sign of work commencing, although the new bothy further along the coast looks complete. With the tide receding fairly well, I saw a chance to nip out and get a photo of the bothy i'd wanted to get for some time.

Camasunary Bothy

We wandered back along the beach which was pretty quiet, save for a woman and her daughter who were trying to figure out how to get to the Bad Step near Loch Coruisk. They didn't have a map which wasn't ideal, so I showed them the route and distance involved, the daughter took a photo of the map and they continued on.

The weather by now was starting to clear, so we started back up the path, hoping to get to the high point in time to get some views.

The new bothy

After some huffing and puffing quickly up the slope in now baking conditions, we found a nice wee spot to have a break and take some photos. This was the first time i'd seen the ridge properly from here, and i must say, it's absolutely sensational. We took god knows how many photos here. Bla-Bheinn, now clear of cloud, looked glorious, whilst across Glen Sligachan, Sgurr nan Gillean's spires and pinnacles looked terrifying and fantastic in equal measure. It's at times like this that Skye just seems like another planet. I couldn't possibly begin to do it justice, but here are a few shots:

Sgurr nan Gillean and Loch na Creitheach

Camasunary and the Cuillin Ridge

The Cuillin, Glen Sligachan and Bla-Bheinn

We must have sat here for over an hour taking photos and just generally enjoying the view. Reluctantly we tore ourselves away and started heading back, but not before nipping across to a massive and randomly situated lump of rock on the south side of the path. This is a fine viewpoint in itself.

Sgurr na Stri and the main ridge

From here it was a straightforward daunder back to the car. We headed back to Elgol which by now was really busy, and managed to nip into the fantastic Cuillin View for a coffee and scone. This is a lovely, reasonably priced cafe which sells ridiculously good coffee and goodies, with a great view over the isles. It's a great wee place and well worth a visit.

After a short walk back to the apartment, during which we experienced the only moderately heavy rain of the trip, we decided to relax for a while before later heading out to brave the midges to photograph the sunset. The scorching heat gave way to cloud later on, giving some dramatic-looking vistas over Loch Scavaig. This was the view from our garden:

Gars Bheinn

The sunset later on was also lovely, not quite as colourful as the previous evening, but nice soft golden light nonetheless, and more importantly, less midges

Sunset

We left the following morning with heavy hearts. It had been a fantastic weekend, but with a dreadful forecast and Anne feeling less than 100% as a result of a reaction to the midge bites, we headed home via Broadford's Chemist, who must be able to spot midge-bite victims from 100 paces then an excellent coffee and bacon roll combination in Portree, before stopping off for photos on the road to Dunvegan.

Loch nan Eilean

After that, it was a leisurely drive home, stopping only for the obligatory photo of Eilean Donan Castle:

Eilean Donan Castle

Hopefully the next time we're in Skye (October with any luck), I'll be able to get up some hills.

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[larry groo]

Great shots Jupe.... simply stunning!!

[Aldawen]

Fantastic photos, enjoyed them very much. Looks much better on your pictures than in my memory although it's only been a month ago I've stayed there

[spiderwebb]

Gorgeous photos

[Mal Grey]

Outstanding photos.

I've seen many great photos from Elgol looking to the Cuillin, your first one with the sunset is up there with the very best.

[jupe1407]

Outstanding photos.

I've seen many great photos from Elgol looking to the Cuillin, your first one with the sunset is up there with the very best.

Thanks Mal

Do you know when they will be starting work on the Camasunary Bothy? I'd like to head back there and spend a night in it before it closes if at all possible.

Gorgeous photos

Thanks Dave

Great shots Jupe.... simply stunning!!

Thanks Larry

[Alteknacker]

I loved this report, and the pics beggar any kind of superlative It's hard to understand that Elgol sunset pic is real!

The pic looking back at Camasunary brought back some great memories of when I first experienced that view over 20 years ago.

I don't know about Skye seeming like another planet, but it's certainly another world - an what a wonderfully fine one!

[Mal Grey]

Do you know when they will be starting work on the Camasunary Bothy? I'd like to head back there and spend a night in it before it closes if at all possible.

Sorry, no idea I'm afraid. seems to have been dragging on for ages, which is great for those who get lucky enough to still find the old bothy open. I first heard it was closing, through one of the forums, can't remember which, well over a year ago.

[Beaner001]

Was on Skye last Thurs/Fri and it is awesome. Your pics are top notch mate, utterly stunning. If I had to pic a fav which is hard I'd choose the Gars Bheinn one, you've caught the most amazing colours in the clouds and sky , so moody and reminds me of a storm brewing

[Bonzo]

Fantastic stuff.

All of the photos are superb but for me, the Gars Bheinn shot is magnificent

[dogplodder]

Your photos would back up my pal-who-comes-from-Elgol's claim that you get the best view in Europe from there! The first one of the sunset is gorgeous.

[jupe1407]

Was on Skye last Thurs/Fri and it is awesome. Your pics are top notch mate, utterly stunning. If I had to pic a fav which is hard I'd choose the Gars Bheinn one, you've caught the most amazing colours in the clouds and sky , so moody and reminds me of a storm brewing

Thanks Beaner. It was great staying somewhere with such a view of the Cuillin. Watching the cloud formations in and around them was really interesting. Gars Bheinn looked a bit like a volcano when i took that one!

Fantastic stuff.

All of the photos are superb but for me, the Gars Bheinn shot is magnificent

Thanks Bonzo

Your photos would back up my pal-who-comes-from-Elgol's claim that you get the best view in Europe from there! The first one of the sunset is gorgeous.

Yup, totally agree with your pal! I spent a significant portion of our time in the apartment gawping at the view out the living room window.

I loved this report, and the pics beggar any kind of superlative It's hard to understand that Elgol sunset pic is real!

The pic looking back at Camasunary brought back some great memories of when I first experienced that view over 20 years ago.

I don't know about Skye seeming like another planet, but it's certainly another world - an what a wonderfully fine one!

Thanks very much Alteknacker. I love Skye (not the midges!). From a photography point of view, it's almost limitless. It'll be even better when I can get back onto the hills again. Camasunary must be one of the finest beach locations in Scotland outside of the far northwest.

[Alteknacker]

... It'll be even better when I can get back onto the hills again. ...

You look pretty young on your picture (the one with the mike), so I guess you'll soon be as right as rain....

[simon-b]

Some beautiful pictures JP. You don't have to go onto the highest mountains to see the glory of Skye.

[jupe1407]

Some beautiful pictures JP. You don't have to go onto the highest mountains to see the glory of Skye.

Thanks Simon ... I've only been on one in five trips, and it was completely clagged in

... It'll be even better when I can get back onto the hills again. ...

You look pretty young on your picture (the one with the mike), so I guess you'll soon be as right as rain....

I wish i was that age. That's ex-Joy Division frontman Ian Curtis. I'm a 41 year old with the knees of an 81 year old