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The last four days of my fortnight's stay in Glencoe were spent alternating between the West Black Mount and the Mamores. After Meall a' Bhuiridh and Creise on the last day of June, a sunny first morning of July saw me driving round to Kinlochleven. There's a little bit of family history about this road - I'll explain later.
I arrived at the car park, where another walker was already setting off to tackle the 4 eastern Mamores. That was my target, but the forecast threatened a possible turn in the weather later in the day. So I decided to go for Sgurr Eilde Mor first, then Binnein Beag, allowing an escape route should it be needed. Through the woods then onto open ground, I moved in the direction of Loch Eilde Mor. Before the Loch I headed NE to move around below Sgurr Eilde Beag.
- Looking back to Loch Leven
- Loch Eilde Mor and Blackwater Reservoir
Upon reaching Coire nan Lochain, I could see my first two targets.
- Sgurr Eilde Mor from Coire an Lochain
- Binnein Beag from Coire an Lochain
I chose to ascend Sgurr Eilde Mor via its southern flank, so moved east a little, then turned left uphill. This was quite a steep climb up grass, with a few boulders to cross. But I was soon at the summit.
- Glen Coe hills from Sgurr Eilde Mor
Moving on, I descended along the W ridge a short distance...
- Starting to descend from Sgurr Eilde Mor
...before turning right down a scree path, and back to Coire an Lochain.
- Buachaille Etive Mor from Coire an Lochain
The walk from Coire an Lochain to the lochan between Binneins Mor and Beag was across quite complex terrain, but the clear weather helped navigation. En route, I encountered the walker I'd seen at the start. He was going round the other way, and now had only one more Munro to do. That was fast!
As I began to climb Binnein Beag, the wind began to pick up, but I reached the summit with no problems.
- Ben Nevis, CMD and Aonach Beag from Binnein Beag
- The Grey Corries from Binnein Beag
All the hills were still clear of mist, but the sky began to darken as one or two ominous looking clouds appeared. As I moved back down towards the lochan, the route up Binnein Mor looked formidable.
- Descending from Binnein Beag towards Binnein Mor
The wind livened up again, and rain started. A risk of thunder, although not high, had been forecast for the afternoon, and some of the dark clouds looked threatening. At this point, my mind was set on the bailout option. Near the Lochan, I put on my waterproofs, had a short stop and a drink, and was ready to start making my exit. But then the rain lightened, and I thought of that other walker who was going to succeed. I moved just a little way up towards Binnein Mor's NE ridge on grass. The Ben was still clear and looking benevolent. There were signs of showers over in the west, but to the south, from where the wind was coming, things were looking more benign again, albeit overcast. Further up I went, onto steep vegetation. The wind eased, and I decided to commit to the ascent. Soon I was getting warm and the waterproofs came off, the weather now dry again.
I ascended towards the rocky section of the ridge, which looked testing.
- The upper part of Binnein Mor's NE ridge
But what followed turned out to be an exhilarating scramble, which I thoroughly enjoyed. And what a way to emerge onto the high point of the Mamores!
- Reaching the summit of Binnein Mor
- Binnein Beag and the Grey Corries from Binnein Mor
- Central and western Mamores from Binnein Mor
The day was looking like a real success now, and it was time to move on for Na Gruagaichean.
- Leaving Binnein Mor for Na Gruagaichean
The link between the final two Munros was relatively easy, involving a fairly narrow ridge that presented no problems.
- Approaching Na Gruagaichean
Just short of the last summit I met a couple (Dutch, possibly) who said they were trying to get there too, but were concerned that the path ended in a field of boulders and they couldn't see the way to the top. So I picked my way through, and they followed. Soon we were on top of Na Gruagaichean.
- Ben Nevis, CMD and Aonach Beag from Na Gruagaichean
- Central and western Mamores from Na Gruagaichean
- Loch Leven from Na Gruagaichean
I took my photos and was ready to move off. The couple had said they were also eventually heading for Kinlochleven, but seemed to want to stay a while and take more pictures. The initial path off the summit wasn't obvious, so I suggested they left in the same direction as I did, and I began my descent.
- Starting the descent from Na Gruagaichean
I saw nothing more of those two people, so I hope they got down OK.
- Coming down towards Loch Leven
After heading south onto Leachd na h-Aire, I turned down right to make the steepish descent on grass towards the Allt Coire na Ba. My final walk back to Kinlochleven, passing Mamore Lodge, was perhaps a little 'alternative', but featured a nice short section of the WHW through woodland. With no waterproofs or long gaiters to mess about with, I was quickly out of my boots, into my trainers and into the car before the midges attacked.
So I drove back from Kinlochleven to Glencoe, and was reminded once again of that family history I mentioned. Before she had any children, my late mother once hitch-hiked with a friend from John o' Groats to Land's End. Her route had taken her through Fort William and Glencoe, and there was no Ballachulish Bridge in those days. I remember her telling me that she had been given a lift along the road around Loch Leven in a bread van.
So this day was for you, Mum!