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And, so it came to pass..... the day when Big Jasper and wee Jimbo could get out on the hills and make it to 100 Munro's. We had talked many times about doing the Ring of Steall and the weather just about looked favourable for it, rather than Creag Meagaidh, so off we went, heading for Glen Nevis, with CM as plan B.
Not many folk about as we set off from the car park at Polldubh falls, getting the mile and a half walk uphill, out the way first, rather than later. As stated, it is a fine walk through the gorge, to the open, green pasture and tumbling water of the Falls of Steall, which truly takes the breath away.
- First view of the falls, with An Gearanach rising behind.
Getting closer we could see a rather nervy attempt by someone to cross the wire bridge. After a few yards, the lady had enough and wisely turned back, heading off up stream to make the crossing. Would we do any better? Meantime, an older couple strode up and crossed without hesitation, so there was no chickening out for us. I quickly crossed over, while Jaf slowly inched across to the other side. Had to laugh at the warning sign, or rather about it’s position, on the far bank!
- Older couple show us they way. No turning back now!
- Wise words - on the far bank!
- Max concentration!
- Big Jesper about to fall, beneath the falls!
The path from here is rather ill defined and mucky and finding a way across the falls, equally tricky, but thrilling. Having done so, Charles the bog finder, soon found the bog, as he dived up to his knees in the muck. Once I managed to stop laughing, I made a long detour round, which made me think the group, now well in front, might have made the better choice?
From here, the path up An Gearanach becomes much better defined and steeper. Very much steeper, so wasn’t long before Jesper was striding out well ahead of me, as I wilted in a sweaty heap, as usual. Fortunately, the zig-zagging track, lessens the pain and we gradually caught up with the two ladies, who stopped for a wee breather, though their former companion, whom we had seen at the bridge, was continuing up the hill at great pace.
Already the views were opening up, with spectacular scenery emerging in all directions, giving me good excuse for many photo stops. A good tip for any slow coaches, always take a camera, even if you only pretend to take photo’s! Eventually, I got up near the summit cairn and could hear Jasper talk to someone else at the top. It transpired to be the person we’d seen making good speed up the hill before us, a rather petite young woman, who asked if she could tag along, as she was a bit nervy about the prospect of some of the walk?
- Jim n Jaf at the first top, An Gearanach.
We chatted a little and I remarked about the speed which she had advanced up An Gearanach, saying she ‘must have some motor to have been so fast.’ Despite this she said she hoped she wouldn’t slow us down!
- Making toward the airy ridge of An Garbhanach.
We had a further chat and photo, or two, before moving off along the ridge of An Garbhanach. I stopped to take a few photo’s, then found myself having to get a shift on to catch up with Mischa and Jaf. Before I knew it, I was following Mischa along a sloping slab, which appeared to drop off, for hundreds of feet. Enough of that, I thought, as I quickly made for the safer looking track, taken by Big Jasper. There were a couple of other somewhat awkward, airy bits, requiring a bit of hands on work, but thankfully we made it across, without any further palpitations, before a steep drop down to the bealach. Bealach a’Chadha Riabhaich, if you know your garlic!
- Steep climb up Stob Coire a'Chairn, the second Munro.
- Looking back at An Gearanach and An Garbhanach.
Again, Mischa pressed on up the steep, rocky slopes of Stob Coire a'Chairn, with Jasper in hot pursuit. It was about this point it hit me, that there was never any danger of Mischa holding us up. In fact, I was going to be the one who would hold her back and she must indeed, have a hidden, turbo charged motor somewhere. Time for more photo’s!
- Yours truly, exhausted and bedraggled, after chasing two greyhounds, Jasper and Mischa, up Stob Coire a'Chairn!
- Mischa having a quiet smile, having near burned me out, after racing up Stob Coire a'Chairn. An Garbhanach and CMD ridge behind.
- Heading up Am Bodach. The bodach lagging behind!
Before long, we were beyond the summit and on our way to Am Bodach. How appropriate, I thought, the Old Man, my hill, named after me. Again, quite rocky and steep, requiring plenty effort and a bit of care, here and there. Yahoo! The third Munro of the day and the ton up for Charles and me. Well done us. A few years ago, I had never even done one! I remarked that it was a great acheivement, but it paled in comparison to the day before, when I climbed the Buachaille Etive Beag, with my daughter and son in law, Tommy, who has cystic fibrosis. Now, that really was a great achievement and humbling experience!
- Looking back to first two Munro's, Grey Corries, Binnein Mor and Beag.
- The hills of Bidean, with the Aonach Eagach Ridge in the foreground.
- Big Jasper on our 100th, Am Bodach, with the ridge heading west to Sgurr an Iubhair.
Anyway, we continued along the ridge, enjoying the banter with our charming friend, from South Africa, working in Switzerland, but walking in Scotland and the UK. Despite barely reaching the five foot mark, Mischa had done extensive walking, cycling and other sports and is super fit. My occasional hike, bike, fish suppers, multi beers and extra 32 years seemed to be proving a handicap, though Mischa kindly lagged behind now and again, to keep me company, as we crossed, the former Munro of Sgurr an Iubhair and becoming more preoccupied with the approaching Devil’s Ridge.
- Jaf points out the "bad step."
It is mostly no bother, aside from one well documented, difficult rocky bit, which we by-passed to the right, though I think there is also a by-pass to the left. (I also noticed that part of the by-pass path appears to be undermining here and one day, might give way under someone’s step, but hopefully, I’m wrong in my judgement.)
- Devil's Ridge towards Sgurr an Iubhair.
- A wee speck on the Devil's Ridge, at the "bad step."
By now I was feeling pretty jiggered, but glad to know the worst of the scary stuff was out the way, I found the energy to make it to the top of Sgurr a'Mhaim. Time for more photo’s and a bit of cairn building. Well, actually just Mischa re-adjusting a stone or two, placed there by a chap who had been eagerly building a pile, on top of the pile!
- Allt Coire Eoghainn Waterfall, Ben Nevis and CMD arete.
- Big Jesper with Devils Ridge behind, Aonach Eagach and Bidean beyond.
I think we were all quite relieved the hard work was done, but in fact, were soon to find this to be a false assumption. At first the descent path gently curves downwards around the spectacular, white quartz stone covered, edge of the corrie, but as it steepens, one has to rely on quick footwork, as the scree slides beneath one’s feet. Once on the grass, the steep path demands full concentration and effort on already tired legs, to prevent a trip, or stumble and it is a great relief to make it on to the level ground by the Allt Coire a Mhusgain.
- Hard work done, so I thought!
- Heading off Sgurr a'Mhaim.
Back to the car, taking just under the 7 and a quarter hours, which was about 7 and a quarter hours less than I would have taken had Mischa with the magic motor, not slowed me down! Just kidding, Mischa. Thanks for letting us join you and being great company along the way. Best wishes wherever your travels may take you.
At this point me and Jaf were more than greatful, not to have to walk back up to to top car park and equally pleased to have the pleasure of giving Mischa a run up to her car, in my magic motor, before winding our way home, with a customary stop for a wee celebratory pint for Charles, at least! All in all, another fantastic day on the hills and a memorable way to reach 100!