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Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)


Postby Badge McVid » Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:01 pm

Route description: Ben Mór Coigach and Sgùrr an Fhìdhleir

Fionas included on this walk: Ben Mór Coigach, Sgùrr an Fhidhleir

Date walked: 05/09/2013

Time taken: 12 hours

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Ben Mor Coigach via the coastal route in from Blughasary (along the old postmans path) has got to have been one of my favourite walks in recent years. The whole day took me nearly 12hrs and I never seen another soul the entire days walking. I was indeed the only guy in the world that day..a gem of a day. It was dark by the time I arrived back at the car (as I slightly miscalculated the time walking back from Fhidhleir & wandering off a vague bit of the posties path too. Oops!)...I'm not the quickest hillwalker I'll admit & often stop for rests,photos and to take in the scenery,flora & fauna so I'm not perhaps the best guy to judge for timings. All I'll say is give yourself good weather and an early start during the summer months if your anything like me.
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Be aware

Parking at Blughasary (off the A835 a tad) I started my day by crossing the River Runie and taking to the old postmans path that skirts the coast towards my legs first real test, the very steep Garbh Choireachan..and very impressive it is too. Only a Graham, it had my leg muscles burning more than most Munros. However, further back along the path though you get a great view of the old Dun Canna fort with the Isle Martin moored offshore, I just knew it was going to be an absolute peach of a day. There were deer here and there too keeping an eye on me.
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My companions for the day.

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Clinging on but thankfully it was just the tree.

It was early September, there were tall ferns hiding the path as it went by a cliff drop into the sea so a wee bit care was needed here and there.
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My good self (selfie)

It was a glorious morning, there were a few rain clouds looking to spoil things as I neared Choireachan but it all added to the big adventure. The path is a bit vague in places but there are the occasional posts (dont expect many though), and plenty of highland burns to cross. Its not a quick walk in but it is a wonderful one.
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Somewhere under the rainbow is my path

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Garbh Choireachan

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Glad he didnt stray my way

The Posties Path winds around a steep gully with the Garh Allt river running down it towards the sea and the path continues along the coast. After I crossed the river and had a wee bite to eat I left the postmans route and took to Choireachans very steep flank heading to skirt around to its upper north western side.
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The finest hillwalkers in the land. An Teallach in the distance

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Silverlight. An Teallach

I cannot say I followed a path upto Garbh Choireachans ridge but there were traces here and there amongst the stones. Once on the ridge the views were stunning.
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Nearly up there (Garbh Choireachan)

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There are some peculiar rock formations on the wonderful ridge.

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Looking back to Ilse Martin and beyond from Garbh Choireachan

The walk along this ridge and over some more peculiar rocks was a delight, a very impressive mountain which puts some Munros to shame. There is a walkers track along here too. Getting to the actual summit of Ben Mor Coigach is straight forward, its rather disappointing after Garbh Choireachean but thats not to say its not a delightful spot..although not the best part of the Coigach massive with all its tops.
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View from/near Coigach looking North

I chose Speicein Coinnich for my next perch to sit on..it was and had a rather more mountainous feel than Coigachs summit. Absolutely stunning views from here too.
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View looking North West from Speicein Coinnich

My final hike was upto Sgurr an fhidhleir, the evening light was getting low at this time and although I wanted to sit here for a while it was a very long treck back. What a place though, I didnt want to leave.
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Long shadows, maybe best get a move on. Fhidhleir.

I realised I didnt have as long to get back to my starting point before the light would fade and I calculated I would barely just make it. Spending a night in the wilds was at the back of my mind. I tore down Fhidhlier and skirted round Garbh Choineachans lower part to curl round in a south east direction to once more cross the Garbh Allt and regain and retrace the posties path back to my car. I strayed off the path once and spent time looking over a crest watching deer for a while. All this cost me time and I didnt fancy straying near cliffs in poor light so I kicked on as if I was just starting my day. Goodness knows where i got my energy from.
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Watched these deer for a while who were totally unaware of my presence for a bit.

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..and they are off. Really sorry to have distubed yous. (Bottom left)

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Isle Martin as the sun set

It was just dark by the time I got back to the car..just in time for a right old savaging from the midges. The light going back was just wonderful and rounded off a truly memorable day.
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Mal Grey » Tue Jul 28, 2015 12:53 pm

Lovely report, that sounds like a stunning way to climb this wonderful hill, perched as it is closer to the coast than almost any other mainland peak I can think of.
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby dogplodder » Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:55 pm

Spectacular views and like the shot of An Teallach with the sheep. :wink:
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Badge McVid » Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:03 pm

dogplodder wrote:Spectacular views and like the shot of An Teallach with the sheep. :wink:

Thanks dogplodder, was a fine day with great views and only had the sheep and the deer as company the whole day
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Badge McVid » Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:24 pm

Mal Grey wrote:Lovely report, that sounds like a stunning way to climb this wonderful hill, perched as it is closer to the coast than almost any other mainland peak I can think of.

It is Mal it gives it an epic feel although it's not huge height wise I'm gonna do this hike again sometime before the knees pack in as I enjoyed it so much. Well worth doing Mal.
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Mal Grey » Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:28 pm

Badge McVid wrote:
Mal Grey wrote:Lovely report, that sounds like a stunning way to climb this wonderful hill, perched as it is closer to the coast than almost any other mainland peak I can think of.

It is Mal it gives it an epic feel although it's not huge height wise I'm gonna do this hike again sometime before the knees pack in as I enjoyed it so much. Well worth doing Mal.


Definitely. I've done it from the Youth Hostel at Achiltibuie, as a round of the Coire Reidh, and would also recommend a descent of Garbh Choireachan, it feels like you're plunging straight into the sea, with the summer isles right in front of you, and views which last forever. Steep though, and therefore plenty of stops to look at said view and take pictures!
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Badge McVid » Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:55 pm

Mal Grey wrote:
Badge McVid wrote:
Mal Grey wrote:Lovely report, that sounds like a stunning way to climb this wonderful hill, perched as it is closer to the coast than almost any other mainland peak I can think of.

It is Mal it gives it an epic feel although it's not huge height wise I'm gonna do this hike again sometime before the knees pack in as I enjoyed it so much. Well worth doing Mal.


Definitely. I've done it from the Youth Hostel at Achiltibuie, as a round of the Coire Reidh, and would also recommend a descent of Garbh Choireachan, it feels like you're plunging straight into the sea, with the summer isles right in front of you, and views which last forever. Steep though, and therefore plenty of stops to look at said view and take pictures!

Sounds fantastic, I feel like going up there tomorrow. Wish I could. Next time I'll possibly do it your way Mal.
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby jmarkb » Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:56 pm

Yes, it's a cracking hill - I've done it several times by a variety of routes, but not by the Postie's Path. I can recommend completing the circuit over both tops of Beinn nan Caorach and Conmheall (and keep an eye out for the troll family in the final col). Would be easier to start from Culnacraig, though!
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Re: Fabulous day on Ben Mor Coigach (Coastal Route)

Postby Badge McVid » Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:07 pm

jmarkb wrote:Yes, it's a cracking hill - I've done it several times by a variety of routes, but not by the Postie's Path. I can recommend completing the circuit over both tops of Beinn nan Caorach and Conmheall (and keep an eye out for the troll family in the final col). Would be easier to start from Culnacraig, though!

Haha, it will be worth doing just to see the trolls. Yeah doing the hills by different routes can be like a first time. Caorach & Commheall will be in my plans when I re visit Coigach. Cheers Mal
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