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The keenly anticipated meet up had me footering with plans to try and get maximum benefit from the weekend in terms of my schedule, whilst leaving enough time to be sociable. The weather looked to be awful and getting worse as the weekend approached. I had hoped to get Meall Dearg on Liathach captured, maybe with the help of Scoob and Fi, but reckoned I needed dry conditions without big winds...hmmm
We'd taken Friday off work, so set off late Thursday afternoon with the plan to head up Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais when we arrived and pitch upon it - better than trying to camp near one of the laybys on the A835. Midges were out in force as we set off over the boggy ground to Meall Daimh. Climbed over a fence by the wooden gate and just plodded up hill. At the north top of Meall Daimh there's flattish ground that's dry enough to pitch, which we did then headed up to the summit of Beinn LMaG. I'd hoped for a sunset over the Beinn Dearg hills, but the sun poked out as a fiery eye for about a minute before retreating behind clouds. At least the drizzle went off and we had some nice cloud formations against the fading light as we returned to the tent. A quick little hill this one.
Gazing out from the summit of BLMa'G
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Tent
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Al, on Flickr
Morning view over Beinn Dearg hills
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The following day had been slated to do the middle Fannichs, taking in Carn na Criche, a Top that had eluded me on earlier visits. However the forecast seemed perkier than previously stated and it seemed wiser to go and do something a bit more interesting
A visit to Torridon wouldn't go amiss and with the prospect of views, Meall a'Ghiubhais and Ruadh Stac Beag seemed a good bet. We failed to breakfast in the tent as I'd managed to omit a lighter in my kitchenware department, hence no porridge. Coffee and a cearal bar back at the car would suffice, then Off to Torridon!
We parked up at the beinn Eighe Visitor Centre past Kinlochewe overlooking Loch Maree and the mighty Slioch. Dodging the midges, we headed for one of the forest tracks, through beautiful Scots Pine forest. As we gained height, Slioch continued to dominate the landscape behind us, and we had fond memories of our trip into Fisherfield, ending with a climb up Slioch. Ahead of us the terrain became stonier and the side of Meall a'Ghiubhais came into view. There's a path that weaves in and out of the scree/boulders. As we climbed the North eastern top of Beinn Eighe - Creag Dhubh - hove into view, proud and pointed with scree lined flanks. Climbing higher, Ruadh-stac Beag appeared along with a vista west to Beinn Dearg and peaking out behind that, Beinn Alligan. What a place this is. We went over to the cairn on the North part of the summit firstly and gazed down across Loch Maree to a'Mhaighdean and beyond. Turning round, we marched over to the main summit, where another walker was taking his rest. Coire Ruadh-staca dominates the view and we looked over at the marvellous mountain of Beinn Eighe for a long while.
over to Slioch
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Loch Maree
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Al, on Flickr
Slioch
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Al, on Flickr
Fault line
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Al, on Flickr
Meall a'Ghiubhais
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Al, on Flickr
Creag Dhubh on Beinn Eighe
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Al, on Flickr
Loch Maree
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Al, on Flickr
View across to Fisherfields
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Al, on Flickr
A'Mhaighdean on L
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe, with summit of Meall a'Ghiubhais on R
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Meall a'Ghiubhais, Ruadh-stac Beag behind
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Al, on Flickr
View showing river leading up into the coire that marks our route
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Al, on Flickr
We dropped down the SE flank of Meall a'Ghiubhais, aiming for the stream that flows down and eventually joins the Allt Toll a'Ghiubhais. Various paths appeared and disappeared. We followed the river up into the coire, to the East of Ruadh-stac Beag, following a path on our left. In places the water rushed and foamed over the slabs of rock, creating plunge pools and jacuzzis. Over to our left, the Black Carls of Beinn Eighe grasp the eye- like pointed decaying teeth on the lower jaw of the mountainside. When we'd got to the southern end of Ruadh-stac Beag we found a cairn marking where to cross the river then set off up the scree/bouldery slopes of RSB. The views over to Ruadh-stac Mor were superb. Coming to the top of the boulderfield, I expected to find the summit a narrow pointy thing, but instaed a wide stony plain opens out and it's another fiver minutes or so to walk over to the cairn - we passed a group of 3 walkers coming back. Our earlier hill, Meall a'Ghiubhais looked impressively steep from here. Behind us, the might of Liathach was rearing up behind Beinn Eighe, masked by clouds, menacing. We retraced our steps and headed back down the scree. Crossing the river, we decided to keep a bit more height and followed a gentle shoulder of Creag Dhubh back towards Lethain Bhuidhe cairn, where we rejoined the track. I am all for well constructed paths in places that get a lot of visitors, but this seemed a bit over the top - the slabs crossed hatched to avoid slipping, even arrows cut into the steps to point the way and enough cairns to have employed generations of cairn builders - seriously a cairn every 10 feet at times
All a bit much IMO. Anyway, back to the car where we met an American woman who was asking us some questions about the local area and seemed amazed that we'd been "hiking" for 8 hours.
Ruadh-stac Beag, Ruadh-Stac Mhor behind
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Al, on Flickr
Looking back at Meall a'Ghiubhais
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The Black Carls
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Al, on Flickr
South flank of Ruadh-stac Beag
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe
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Al, on Flickr
Black carls
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Al, on Flickr
Ruadh-stac Mhor, Liathach behind
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Al, on Flickr
Ben Alligan in the distance
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe pano
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Dearg, Alligan
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Al, on Flickr
Summit RSB
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Drove back to Aultguish and met up with the usual crew at the meet. Very comfortable rooms - nice to get a shower coming off the hill, good facilities, good craic. Relatively early night, having decided against trying for Meall Dearg due to the weather forecast suggesting 50mph winds and heavy rain. Ah well, another day for that.
I reverted to my previous plan of the central 4 Fannaichs plus Carn na Criche. Various folk were doing the Eastern Fannaichs, and another group had set out for ours a bit earlier. We drove to the usual starting point for these hills and strolled down the track towards Meall na Chrasgaidh. I remembered this as being a steep slog for about 400m and so it was today. Winds did feel a bit fresh, and as we neared the top of the hill I was surpriesed to see Fife Flyer's group heading down from the summit. My first thought was "surely they can't have climbed all 4 already" but no - they were baling out due to the high winds. We took a reading at the cairn and yes, 50mph constant speed. I reckoned it was going to be worse up Sgurr Mhor, having gained 200m, but there was no way I was missing out on Carn na Criche. I winked at Allison - we're keeping on going. She knew to expect that. The wind dropped as we dipped down before climbing up from the 819 bealach to Carn na Criche - a mere pimple against the dramatic Sgurr Mhor behind. Another Top in the book - now would we head up the side of Mhor? It seemed rude not to, given that we were so close. The wind surprised by steadily dropping, so that at the top of Sgurr Mhor it was a gentle breeze. As I stood there a line of walkers came up from the Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich side - Barry, Colleen, Nigel, Hugh, Sue, Davy and Scoob & Fi. Nice timing! We milled about for a bit then sat and had lunch by the cairn, whilst they headed back down to do the (frankly rather dull) Eastern section.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Meall na Chraisgaidh - quite windy up here!
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Carn na Criche with Sgurr Mhor behind
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Al, on Flickr
Ripples in Loch a'Mhadaidh
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Al, on Flickr
Notches lead to Sgurr nan clach Geala
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Al, on Flickr
Meall na Chraisgaidh in backdrop
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Al, on Flickr
Sgurr nan Clach Geala
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Motley crew on Sgurr Mhor
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Al, on Flickr
Scoob & Fi finally arrive
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Al, on Flickr
Off to do the boring eastern ridge
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Al, on Flickr
We, on the other hand, had the impressive ridge of Sgurr na Clach Geala to consider. Given that the wind had dropped it seemed reasonable to attempt, so we trotted back down Sgurr Mhor and set off up the notched crest to the halved trig point on Clach Geala. After gazing down into the depths of the coires below we nipped down to the afterthought on the ridge that is Sgurr nan Each, retracing our steps to the bealach and dropping down to meet the track returning through the glen. Last time we did these hills we added on the 2 Western Fannaichs, so it was a relief when we got to the valley floor not to have to climb straight back up for another 500-odd metres, just wander out along the track. The sun even came out as we returned. Forecast had been inaccurate and I was mildly peeved not to have tried for Meall Dearg, but at least we enjoyed these hills.
An Teallach
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Al, on Flickr
Sgurr nan Clach Geala coire
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Al, on Flickr
Summit
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Sgurr Mhor
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Al, on Flickr
Down to Loch Fanniach
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Towards Sgurr nan Each
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe (zoomed)
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Slioch
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Back at the Bunkhouse there was time for food and a chat before The Quiz, where we started brightly, but nosedived in the last round
It became insufferably hot in the sitting area but the vigilance of The Midge outside made it impossible to open windows for a breeze...
Theresa, Rod Jelena
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Al, on Flickr
Polly & Malky arrives
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Al, on Flickr
Quiz in progress
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Al, on Flickr
Sunday's forecast was for 35-45mph winds and clag down to 550m all day. Just the perfect conditions for Ben Wyvis
We bade our farewells to the others in the group, with some having sore heads from a late night, and set off to Wyvis car park. Our aim was to include the two Tops lying at the northern end of the mountain. I'd been unable to come up with a workable loop route for the walk, so it would be out and back the same way - something I dislike. We met up with Heather (Qunicy) at the start of the climb up An Cabar and she accompanied us up to the summit of Wyvis. Thereafter, we set off for the first Top, Tom a'Choinnich - well named as the going underfoot was the most pleasant, luxuriant moss - a delight to walk on (and to camp on should you feel so inclined). The weather was much better than forecast, we even got views of the hills we were climbing, and the wind was barely present. It's a long walk from Tom over to the second Top, Glas Leathad Beag. From here you can look into the rugged coire on the eastern flank of Wyvis which is all much more serious than the grassy slopes elsewhere. It makes little sense to have this nominated as a mere Top when it is so far removed from the parent summit, whilst the likes of Sgurr nan Each gets full Munro status....chunter, chunter.
As we headed to the Top a runner came out of nowhere - the first of several we saw on our walk back. ben Wyvis - the outdoor Gym it would seem. We made fair time on the return leg, but it does add a good amount of time (2 hours in our case) to add the Tops on - less, obviously, if you run
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Al, on Flickr
Heather joined us for the summit
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Al, on Flickr
Tom a'Choinnich (L) and towards Glas Leathad Beag (R)
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Al, on Flickr
What a nice walking surface
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Tom
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Al, on Flickr
Long way to Glas
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Wyvis Lodge
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Al, on Flickr
Eventually!
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Al, on Flickr
Signs of industry in the Cromarty Firth
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Al, on Flickr
Windfarm
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr