This report will be about my holiday in Scotland. But let's go back a bit. I became obsessed with Scotland four years ago when I visited it for the first time. There was something in that land and especially in the mountains that pulled me back. From that time I visit Scotland every year and I can say it gets better everytime I go. This year wasn't an exception.
This time I planned my trip weeks before. And because I was going only by myself and wanted to clear my head, I planned to hike as many hills as possible.
So on Saturday 22nd of August I was ready to go. I woke up at 03:00 in the morning, grabbed my things and drove my car to Prague Airport. I boarded the plane and in 4 hours I was in Edinburgh. I picked up my rental car in 10:00 and drove right into the Highlands. To be more accurate, I set off for Bridge of Orchy. You can guess which hill I wanted to climb.
Yes, it was Beinn Dorain. When I got to the Bridge of Orchy it was already 13:00 and the car park near the train station was almost full. I thought I will give it a try even the weather wasn't so promising. The mountain was in the cloud and the clouds were dark. But it proved to be quite good, only small showers on the way to the col.
- Beinn Dorain Bealach
At the cairn I met two guys from Glasgow. I joined them in their journey to the summit of Beinn Dorain. After a while we finally reached the second cairn, which marks the very top. There were no views, but the feeling of bagging my second Munro was great.
- Me on the top of Beinn Dorain
After a short break we turned back and headed for the col again. It started to rain a bit, but It wasn't that bad. We split up at the cairn, because I wanted to do Beinn an Dothaidh as well. I thanked these guys for a great company and headed up the path. Soon, the rain became heavier and the visibility was pretty bad. When the path ended and there was only bog I turned back. There was no point to do it in these conditions. I didn't have a map, I didn't have a GPS, so I remembered what people in the mountains told me: "These mountains will be here much longer than you can imagine. There is no rush." It is true. Anyway, I will certainly be back even for Beinn Dorain, just in better conditions. I want the views!
When I got back to the car park it was around 18:00. So I thought it would be a good idea to try one wee hill on the way to Rannoch Moor. I read at least two reports about the hill named Meall Mor (one was from The Rodmeister - thank you, Sir!). I wanted to go there because of the views and because of the monument there. The walk was a bit boggy. When I was almost to the top, it started to rain really heavy. It felt like the spirit of this place didn't want me to disturb him. Soon, strong wind started to blow. But I didn't give up. I reached the cairn and turned to the monument. I told to myself, I am not leaving without visiting it. So I went there in the rain and it felt kind of strange. When I got to the monument, I read the very nice and true words on the plaque. I stopped for a while, watched the rain falling on the infinite fields of Rannoch Moor. The thoughts were clear in my head. I walked back to the car and I was happy. This was the exactly the reason why I was in Scotland. To find a bit of inner peace.
Unfortunately no pictures from this one, the rain was too heavy...
The next day, the weather changed. It was a sunny day, but a bit windy. I wanted to try Buachaille Etive Beag. Later it proved as a good choice, because the wind on the ridge was very strong, can't imagine doing the big Buachaille! The path up is really good, a nice change from yesterday, almost no bog. The ridge was a bit windy, but there were beautiful views all around. Most of you probably know this one, so I will let the pictures talk.
- Bealach BEB
- Views of Glen Etive
- Me on the top of Stob Coire Raineach
- Me on the top of Stob Dubh
I planned one of the mountains in the Kintail & Lochalsh area for the third day. The weather forecast was quite good for western hills, so I later decided to go to Skye and try Bla Bheinn. A few miles behind the Eilean Donan castle I had to stop. It appeared, there was an accident on the road and the road will be closed for hours. I was pointed to go to Glenelg and go to Skye by a ferry, but it later proved to be impossible, because of the big number of tourists going the same way. I would wait hours for the ferry! So I turned back and went to Arnisdale. I knew there is a munro named Beinn Sgritheall, but this one was not planned. I parked my car in the village and went up the steep path. Although the path is a bit boggy at the beginning, later it gets better and it is a great experience. It leads around the waterfall and later it becomes so steep that a little bit of scramble is needed. And it is what I like.
I climbed to the first top of Beinn Sgritheall, it's the lower one. The weather was great and the summit was clear. - Beinn Sgritheall from the first top
But when I got to the very top, it looked like this.
- Top in the cloud
Later, it started to clear. The views were incredible!
- Me on the ridge Beinn Sgritheall
- Looking down from the ridge of Beinn Sgritheall
I took the other path down to protect my knees. I met German couple on the way down and had a nice conversation with them. It was great to meet them. Although this mountain wasn't planned, it proved to be an excellent walk with stunning views.
When I got to the car park, it was still time to move to Skye. So I jumped in the car and drove towards Elgol. When I got there it was almost the sunset, so I went to the sea and experieced a fine sunset over the panorama of the Cuillin hills.
- Cuillin ridge sunset
- Sunset in Elgol
The next day the weather didn't look so great. But I said to myself, I will give it a try. So I parked my car under the mountain of Bla Bheinn and went up. The path is really good. Soon a few showers came by, but it was still walkable. But when i got to the bealach, the rain started to be heavier and heavier. I waited for an hour under the big stone there (a good place to hide actually
) The rain eased a bit but the clouds were still very dark and the path up the mountain was very slippery so I turned back and thought about the advice I was talking about before. - Bealach Blaven
I moved to Glenbrittle campsite, where the weather improved and the evening was warm and fine. But the next day the weather was really bad. It was raining from the morning till 16:00. The camp warden had to move my tent from the puddle, otherwise I would have slept in a fine wet sleeping bag.
Thanks for that! But later after 16:00 the weather improved. It was no signs of rain and the visibility was great. The island of Canna and Rum was visible so I thought I will walk up to Coire Lagan and enjoy at least a bit of mountains that day. I got to the loch only one hour after I left the campsite. And because I had a lot of time and the weather still looked promising, I started to walk the great stone chute. In just 50 minutes I stood on the top of Sgurr Alasdair. I can't describe the feeling I had there. I tried to climb this one two times before and now I was standing on the top. Even there was a cloud on the top, I was able to easily navigate by the crampons marks on the stones. Thank you Sgurr Alasdair to allow me to climb you! It was a great experience! - The Top of the Great Stone Chute
- Me on the top of Sgurr Alasdair
I got back to the campsite just 3 hours and 40 mins after I set off. It was a great feeling. I slept like a baby that night.
The next day I wanted to get to Torridon and maybe climb some hills there. But when I read the forecast, it looked bad there. It proved so when I arrived do Achnasheen. I thought I will come back later, so I went on to Ullapool and then to Assynt. There I wanted to try Cul Beag. I started from the car park on the main road and approached the hill from the east through very boggy ground. When I was almost at the base of the mountain, the heavy rain started. I took the advice for the thord time and turned back. I was soaked when I got back to the car. I went back to Ullapool and slept in B&B. I really needed it after this.
The next day the weather looked promising. Patches of sunshine and a few showers. I wanted to try Canisp, because Assynt is a very special place for me. I walked Suilven last year and it was just incredible. The whole area is magical. So I stopped in the lay-by near the Ledmore junction and started the walk. It was raining a bit and the ground was very boggy but I was determined and I believed the weather will improve. Soon, the rain stopped and the ground started to be more stony. There were few showers but it was still good. Later, the views started to be stunning with Cul Mor, Stac Pollaidh and Suilven.
- Suilven from the ridge of Canisp
However, when I got the the top, it looked like this.
- Me on the top of Canisp
But soon...
- Suilven selfie
- Views of Suilven
Canisp proved to be one of the great mountains with great character. The views were stunning. Maybe it is just a corbett but it sure has the spirit greater than some munros. Totally, one of the most beautiful places in Scotland I have been to.
I spent the night in the campsite in Durness. Fine weather, almost no rain. The next day I set off for Ben Hope. The weather forecast for north was good. When i got to the car park under the mountain, there were already two cars there. The way up Ben Hope is good was easy to walk. The views from the top were beautiful. But the place itself was very windy and cold. So after I took some pictures and had a snack I went back. Ben Hope is a fine mountain with great views. Its remoteness is making it even more special.
- Me on the top of Ben Hope
- Loch Hope
- Views south from Ben Hope
I drove south from Ben Hope and thought I will try Torridon. When I got to Kinlochewe, it was still very cloudy, but Beinn Eighe was visible. The forcast for the next two days looked good. The next morning was cloudy but it wasn't raining. I went one low level walk just to watch the Beinn Alligin and Liathach. But soon it started to be worse and worse. It was raining whole day. I thought the next day will be better so I stayed for one more night. But it wasn't. It was raining whole night and my tent was almost soaked. So I said to myslef, there is no time to lose time. I packed my things, jumped to the car and set off for Creag Meagaidh. I arrived to the car park under the Creag Meagaidh at 09:30 in the morning. I set off immediately and in 7 hours I did the whole circuit with three munros. Great ridge walk, clear tops, what a day!
- Carn Liath
- Coire Ardair
- Myself on the top of Creag Meagaidh
It was the best holiday trip I have ever been to. I have met a lot of friendly people who love mountains and Scotland as much as I do. The weather and mountains were kind to me, that they allowed me to climb this many of them. I am pretty tired when I write this, but it was worth it. I am looking forward for next year adventure.
I just want to share this experience with you. Thank you for any comments.
Scotland with its mountains is a very special place to me. There is something in it, I don't know what it is and I cannot describe it. But there is something in these mountains what other mountains in Europe, maybe world, don't have. And it makes them very attractive and special. They are unique and you, people of Scotland, are lucky to live in such a place.
Summary:
Distance travelled by plane to get to Edinburgh: 1200 miles
Time spent in Scotland: 10 days
Distance travelled in car: 1100 miles
Distance travelled by foot: almost 100 km
Total ascent of all walks I did: 7390 m
Number of day offs: 1
Number of annoying midges: zillion
Cheers
