The first boat didn't depart til 10.30 on Saturday which was a bit of a nuisance, especially as it leaves at 8.30 weekdays. We had a relaxed breakfast, gathered our stuff up and drove to Mallaig. The crossing was quite exciting - we sat on the back of the small, fast boat and enjoyed a bit of lurching and spray - just as well the rucksacks got covered with a tarp before we left! Arrived on the quayside at Inverie before 11. We'd seen the sharp prow of Sgurr Coire Choinnichean from the boat and set off to find our way up it. I had routed us to go up past Inverie House and up Coire Na Cloiche and decided to take a "short cut" through the woods. This was not a good idea. We found ourselves in amongst felled trees then were zigzaggin back and forth through the trees for what seemed like hours, midges annoying. Eventually we burst through onto a proper road and saw the hillside ahead of us - 300m of steep bracken clad terrain. Allison wasn't very pleased

Eigg

Bla Bheinn



Sgurr Coire Choinnichean



This is not the best way up!

The next section was rocky and we contoured a bit to the west to find a suitable route. Ahead of us was the shapely top of our Corbett - we reached the top just as a chap - Taps Aff - with a hoodie round his waist got there too. Ahead of us was the curving horseshoe that led towards Ladhar Bheinn, off to the right the chiselled top of Luinne Bheinn. The circuit has a fair path although there's a lot of undulation and - of course- descent. Ladhar Bheinn looks very different from the sight that meets you approaching from Kinlochhourn - not as dramatic but more muscly and complex. I think this is a superb way to reach it- long and thrilling. We met a group of 4 lads as we reached Aonach Sgoilte, the only people (apart from Mr Taps Aff) we'd seen all day. Turning north at the 849m cairn we got onto Ladhar Bheinn proper and had some fun on the scrabbly bits- a bit more challenging with a full pack. Allison was particularly struggling on them as her knees were really sore meaning she couldn't easily kneel on them while clambering up - ouch! We met a man coming down off the top who was surprised to see us - given it was 6pm by this time- he'd miscalculated his times to get back to Barrisdale and asked if we were camping out- of course- flexibility on the hills is a tent in your pack.
Rhum


Summit SCC




The horseshoe ahead

Luinne Bheinn



ladhar Bheinn


Beinn Sgritheall



We reached the first of the three cairns along the summit ridge and dropped the packs, heading down to Stob Coire Odhar. This is a pretty ridge and well worth doing even if you are not Top bagging. The "cairn" was almost inverted like a belly button. I'd spotted a suitable place to camp just below the cairn on Ladhar Bheinn, but we decided to press on, reaching the next 2 tops along the ridge and watching the sun send golden fingers down onto the sea out by Rhum. Pity the clouds were down and the sunset was not going to be dramatic. We headed down a bit towards An Diollaid, perturbed by the amount of wind coming over the summit ridge. We found a semi-level spot at about 950m and pitched up, enjoying a well earned meal before crashing out. Rain came sporadically overnight and there was no sunrise, just clag

Descending to Stob Coire Odhar

A fine ridge

Summit "cairn"


Summit Ladhar Bheinn






We were a bit tight for water and couldn't have a morning coffee, so packed up and headed off about 8am. I knew that although we had 15km to do today a lot of it would be on track, so I wasn't concerned about not making the 5pm boat. I'd considered various ways off Ladhar Bheinn - the most efficient seemed to be to head north into Coire na Diollaide but in clag this wasn't sensible. Instead we followed the standard path down, traversing round to the west of the mountain once we'd descended below the crag line. I had been a little worried about crossing the Abhainn Bheag, but it was fine- as long as you went across after the gully. Onto Beinn na Caillich - little to see other than wet grass and the occasional sheep. We followed the Allt na Bruaiche up and turned left once we reached the flatter ground below the summit. We sat at the cairn to have our lunch in the drizzle.

Descent into Garbh Coire





Turning to leave the clag started to lift and we got better views as we made our return journey down the hillside. Soon we were on the track and the going was fine along the riverside, punctuated by waterfalls. Through the woods and down to Inverie. We got to the village just before 3pm and sat outside the Forge, which unhelpfully doesn't open til 4. It was quite relaxing watching life around the jetty and wondering just what you do all day if you live in Inverie. Shortly after 4 the bolt on the pub door slid open and we, and several other walkers, made it inside for a pint (RemoteNess, very nice). Off to the ferry at 5, a jolly ferryman with a sharp sense of humour. Mallaig in 20 minutes then something to eat out the Co-Op and a drive down, marred only by hitting the kerb in Ft William when trying to get out of the way of a blue-lighting Police van - a new tyre will be required

The back end of Ladhar Bheinn - not a good descent choice!






Inverie

Our transport home
