Monadhliath, Monadh Ruaidh, monochrome and colour
Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 11:23 pm
Values quoted for distance and ascent in this report are according to Memory-map
The chance of a self catering cottage at good price for the first full week of September was too good to miss. That was decided before it turned out to be, probably, Scotland's best week of weather for the whole year. The cottage was at Lagg, near Laggan. Still the summer side of the equinox, this was ideal for some long walks to the remote hills of the Alder range. Those expeditions will be described in separate reports; this post deals with the relatively easy days on the rest of the Munros I needed to climb, which were also conveniently located. It was a tip full of variety, with the greys of the Monadhliath,...
...the reds of the Monadh Ruaidh under blue Cairngorm skies...
...and the beautiful purples and greens of the glens:
Saturday 5/9/2015: Geal Charn
Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 650 m
Time: 3.7 h
It was a damp, grey Yorkshire I set off from during the early hours, but a few hours later the sun was shining on the Pass of Drumochter. Around midday I was at Garva Bridge, ready for a quick afternoon ramble up and down Geal Charn.
Before 5 pm I was at the cottage, with a lovely view of the River Spey and Creag Dhubh from the front window.
Sunday 6/9/2015: Carn Dearg, Carn Sgulain and A' Chailleach
Distance: 25.1 km
Ascent: 1081 m
Time: 7.75 h
In time for a good early start from Glen Banchor, it became clear it's not just the West Highlands where you can get clustered by hordes of midges. Soon I was moving towards the mountains.
The higher hills were in mist, and conditions were grey as I passed over into Gleann Ballach. But as I ascended towards Carn Dearg, the clouds lifted and broke. The summit was reached with views, and then I doubled back towards Carn Ban.
Then came the long trudge across the plateau, heading for Carn Sgulain.
This plateau is a great place for wildlife, with lots of birds, including some of the largest flocks of Ptarmigan I've seen. There were plenty of mountain hares running around, too. Eventually I reached the second Munro.
Up to this point I'd only met one other walker, shortly before Carn Sgulain. But I encountered quite a few people on my way to A' Chailleach. It was fairly windy as I got to the final summit cairn, with a nice vista of Badenoch and Strathspey.
Back at the cottage, I cooked my tea and then got an early night, ready for a big day. On Monday I was up early and off to Dalwhinnie, from where I made it to Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil.
Tuesday 8/9/2015: Bynack More
Distance: 19.8 km
Ascent: 811 m
Time: 5.75 h
After Monday's efforts, a fairly steady day was in order, and Bynack More from Glenmore fitted the bill. I set off walking in fog.
Before long, I was ascending out of an inversion, before crossing the River Nethy.
It had been an easy walk most of the way. The only steep bit was on the final push towards the summit.
By now I was starting to feel the strain of the last few days, but I was soon on top. It was a beautiful day with little wind.
Heading back down, I met two people ascending, carrying their bikes.
A number of other walkers were on their way up, as I dropped back to the glen, from which the fog had cleared.
On the last bit of the walk back, my feet were feeling sore. So, despite the continuing good weather, Wednesday was a good time to take a rest. With the cottage's idyllic location, I didn't need to go anywhere, so I just sat in the garden enjoying the sun. Thursday was another big day, this time on the North Alder range, which I reached from Luiblea. It was also a day on which the dry weather held, but the wind started to pick up.
Firiday 11/9/2015: Sgor Gaoith and Mullach Clach a' Bhlair
Distance: 26.6 km
Ascent: 1101 m
Time: 7.1 h
Friday's forecast was for dry weather and clearing clouds again, but with gales. Was this a good day to head for one of the Cairngorm plateaux? There was only one way to find out, so I drove to Auchlean. The wind was pretty strong, even down in Glen Feshie.
It was hard work, walking up the track into the driving wind. I was braced for turning back if necessary. On reaching the plateau, the gale was fairly fierce, but I was able to stand up and walk in it. So I moved on to Carn Ban Mor, and got my first sight of Sgor Gaoith.
At least the SE wind was coming from the right direction not to blow anybody of Sgor Gaoith's cliffs. But as I approached the summit, I was hit by a ferocious blast which seemed to be coming from the north, and I could hardly move. Forcing myself on, I found myself moving into much more still air. As sometimes happens, the wind seemed to be missing the summit, and all was calm on top. The thought of a sudden gust kept me cautious, though. So I chose to kneel to touch the highest point, right at the edge of the sheer drop. I'd done a similar thing on Seanna Bhraigh over three years earlier.
Sgor Gaoith's summit really is a dramatic place!
Into the gale again, I doubled back southwards. A couple appeared, en route for Sgor Gaoith. I wasn't the only one who wouldn't let a little breeze put me off. Crossing the Moine Mhor, the wind was still there, but tolerable.
Getting to the highest point of Mullach Clach a' Bhlair meant dealing with a bit of a gale again, but without any great difficulty. Maybe this is a rather featureless summit, but in its own way has a wild, desolate kind of attractiveness. On my way down, I dropped out of the worst of the wind.
So my last bit of walking during this trip was along Glen Feshie, where the heather in bloom contrasted with the green conifers. This is a beautiful place, fitting for a grand exit.
Saturday morning was time to pack up and go home. On the Pass of Drumochter, I drove into the first rain I'd encountered for a week. Through Perthshire, across the Southern Uplands and in England as far as Scotch Corner, it was pretty torrential. But I arrived in a sunny Wakefield. It had been a very lucky week!
The chance of a self catering cottage at good price for the first full week of September was too good to miss. That was decided before it turned out to be, probably, Scotland's best week of weather for the whole year. The cottage was at Lagg, near Laggan. Still the summer side of the equinox, this was ideal for some long walks to the remote hills of the Alder range. Those expeditions will be described in separate reports; this post deals with the relatively easy days on the rest of the Munros I needed to climb, which were also conveniently located. It was a tip full of variety, with the greys of the Monadhliath,...
...the reds of the Monadh Ruaidh under blue Cairngorm skies...
...and the beautiful purples and greens of the glens:
Saturday 5/9/2015: Geal Charn
Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 650 m
Time: 3.7 h
It was a damp, grey Yorkshire I set off from during the early hours, but a few hours later the sun was shining on the Pass of Drumochter. Around midday I was at Garva Bridge, ready for a quick afternoon ramble up and down Geal Charn.
Before 5 pm I was at the cottage, with a lovely view of the River Spey and Creag Dhubh from the front window.
Sunday 6/9/2015: Carn Dearg, Carn Sgulain and A' Chailleach
Distance: 25.1 km
Ascent: 1081 m
Time: 7.75 h
In time for a good early start from Glen Banchor, it became clear it's not just the West Highlands where you can get clustered by hordes of midges. Soon I was moving towards the mountains.
The higher hills were in mist, and conditions were grey as I passed over into Gleann Ballach. But as I ascended towards Carn Dearg, the clouds lifted and broke. The summit was reached with views, and then I doubled back towards Carn Ban.
Then came the long trudge across the plateau, heading for Carn Sgulain.
This plateau is a great place for wildlife, with lots of birds, including some of the largest flocks of Ptarmigan I've seen. There were plenty of mountain hares running around, too. Eventually I reached the second Munro.
Up to this point I'd only met one other walker, shortly before Carn Sgulain. But I encountered quite a few people on my way to A' Chailleach. It was fairly windy as I got to the final summit cairn, with a nice vista of Badenoch and Strathspey.
Back at the cottage, I cooked my tea and then got an early night, ready for a big day. On Monday I was up early and off to Dalwhinnie, from where I made it to Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil.
Tuesday 8/9/2015: Bynack More
Distance: 19.8 km
Ascent: 811 m
Time: 5.75 h
After Monday's efforts, a fairly steady day was in order, and Bynack More from Glenmore fitted the bill. I set off walking in fog.
Before long, I was ascending out of an inversion, before crossing the River Nethy.
It had been an easy walk most of the way. The only steep bit was on the final push towards the summit.
By now I was starting to feel the strain of the last few days, but I was soon on top. It was a beautiful day with little wind.
Heading back down, I met two people ascending, carrying their bikes.
A number of other walkers were on their way up, as I dropped back to the glen, from which the fog had cleared.
On the last bit of the walk back, my feet were feeling sore. So, despite the continuing good weather, Wednesday was a good time to take a rest. With the cottage's idyllic location, I didn't need to go anywhere, so I just sat in the garden enjoying the sun. Thursday was another big day, this time on the North Alder range, which I reached from Luiblea. It was also a day on which the dry weather held, but the wind started to pick up.
Firiday 11/9/2015: Sgor Gaoith and Mullach Clach a' Bhlair
Distance: 26.6 km
Ascent: 1101 m
Time: 7.1 h
Friday's forecast was for dry weather and clearing clouds again, but with gales. Was this a good day to head for one of the Cairngorm plateaux? There was only one way to find out, so I drove to Auchlean. The wind was pretty strong, even down in Glen Feshie.
It was hard work, walking up the track into the driving wind. I was braced for turning back if necessary. On reaching the plateau, the gale was fairly fierce, but I was able to stand up and walk in it. So I moved on to Carn Ban Mor, and got my first sight of Sgor Gaoith.
At least the SE wind was coming from the right direction not to blow anybody of Sgor Gaoith's cliffs. But as I approached the summit, I was hit by a ferocious blast which seemed to be coming from the north, and I could hardly move. Forcing myself on, I found myself moving into much more still air. As sometimes happens, the wind seemed to be missing the summit, and all was calm on top. The thought of a sudden gust kept me cautious, though. So I chose to kneel to touch the highest point, right at the edge of the sheer drop. I'd done a similar thing on Seanna Bhraigh over three years earlier.
Sgor Gaoith's summit really is a dramatic place!
Into the gale again, I doubled back southwards. A couple appeared, en route for Sgor Gaoith. I wasn't the only one who wouldn't let a little breeze put me off. Crossing the Moine Mhor, the wind was still there, but tolerable.
Getting to the highest point of Mullach Clach a' Bhlair meant dealing with a bit of a gale again, but without any great difficulty. Maybe this is a rather featureless summit, but in its own way has a wild, desolate kind of attractiveness. On my way down, I dropped out of the worst of the wind.
So my last bit of walking during this trip was along Glen Feshie, where the heather in bloom contrasted with the green conifers. This is a beautiful place, fitting for a grand exit.
Saturday morning was time to pack up and go home. On the Pass of Drumochter, I drove into the first rain I'd encountered for a week. Through Perthshire, across the Southern Uplands and in England as far as Scotch Corner, it was pretty torrential. But I arrived in a sunny Wakefield. It had been a very lucky week!