Outer Hebrides- breathtaking walks on two amazing islands

[Mountainlove]

To visit the outer Hebrides have been a lifelong dream and thanks to the reduced Cal Mac ferry prices for cars and passengers I was finally able to make my dream reality.
It was a calm day when I boarded the ferry from Uig (northern Skye) to Tarbert on the isle of Harris. I stood on deck for most of the 90 min crossing and watched the islands getting closer.
Driving away from Tarbert and up the hill towards southern Harris on the so called golden road, I was soon in love with the amazing moon like countryside. A countryside of rocks and patches of grass and ruins of old Blackhouses and far flung houses. The windy single track took a while to get used to, but luckily had so little traffic that there were certainly more sheep than cars on the road. Little inlets gave spectacular views towards the ocean and the sun bathed the sea into a mirror of tiny diamonds.

The isle of Harris


Typical road


Towards the Minch and the isle of Skye in the distance



I wanted to explore more, but it was time to head to one of the most amazing campsites I have been to ...Lickisto Blackhouse Camping. Set in a large wild garden it includes 3 renovated blackhouses. The largest includes a bathroom, kitchen area, comfy sofas all surrounded by 4 feet thick stone walls. The perfect place to hide away from the midges at night and chat to the follow campers.


How is that for a bathroom, kitchen and living room

During the next days it was time to explore the islands

The tallest mountain- Clisham

It was obvious impossible to go on a holiday without climbing a mountain and since there are no Munros on the islands I decided to climb the only Corbett .
I had been waiting unsuccessfully all day for the clouds, which hugged the tops of the Harris mountains, to disappear and finally set off at 3pm from the small car park. If there is a straight forward walk then Clisham is the answer. It raises steeply and seemed to be a straight line up and down from the car park. I set off and spend the first twenty minute bog hopping until the faint path became a bit drier. The views are probably more enjoyable during a clear day, but at least I had some until thick clag soon prevented me from seeing anything. The wind on top was fierce and I was glad when I saw the large cairn and stone ring which enabled me to get away from the wind. I stayed for half an hour as I was still hoping for some views, but gave up after when I started feeling too cold. Returning the same way I came up I was back at my car 3 hours after setting off feeling a bit demotivated for not having any views, but it just means that I will have to climb Crisham again at some point.


The road to the mountains


Clisham from the road. It looked as if the clouds might lift from the top


On the way up looking back


Hazy views towards the north


Close to the top


The great summit cairn


Close encounter

The beaches

With Clisham climbed the weather improved and it was time for some beach walks

Scarista Beach

Scarista Beach is one of the easiest to get to. Right next to the road (A859) with lots of parking opportunities, all whats required is to park your car, cross the dunes and enjoy the walk along the waters edge.
I particular enjoyed watching a handful of Gannets hunting for fish and never getting tired from diving deep into the water with speeds up to 60mph







Seilebost Beach
With a fantastic viewpoint right next to the road, Seilebost beach is best viewed from above, before you walk along the stunning shoreline






Horgabost Beach
In comparison to the others Horgabost beach is small, but has the advantage that a lovely campsite is situated right alongside it. I was very tempted to stay here for a night


Myself enjoying the sunshine


Who needs the Caribbean...



Huisinis Beach

To reach Huisinis Beach requires a drive along a relentless single track road (B887) which took me a good 45min. The end of the road which is also the start of the beach has a little toilet black and invites for wild camping amongst the dunes. Walking along the beach I decided to take a quick walk up Cnoc Mor. From the top of the hill lovely views could be enjoyed and made a pleasant hours walk.


The drive towards Huisinis Beach


Amhuinnsuidhe Castle Estate which you will drive past



Huisinis Beach and Cnoc More in the far left





Views from the top of Cnoc Mor

Luskentyre Beach
Luskentyre Beach made it as the best beach in Britain and one of the top 10 beaches in the world in 2012. Walking over the dunes and setting eyes on the beach for the first time I had to agree! It is stunning and even on a lovely day nearly empty. I spend a good 2 hours walking along the sand and climbing along the dunes, before I was able to drag myself away.






Endless walking is guaranteed


During my ferry crossing to Tarbert, I noticed a lovely lighthouse in the distance. Standing proudly at the isle of Scalpay, the island is connected with the isle of Harris by bridge and as it was once place which was recommended I knew I had to pay it a visit. Scalpay is a lovely island and I particular enjoyed the walk towards the lighthouse which is one of the 4 oldest lighthouses in Scotland.


Eilean Glas lighthouse from the ferry


From the car park go through the gate and continue up the hill


The road is also leading to fields were peat is still cut


Peat which is left out to dry until September


When the lighthouse comes into view, you also have some lovely views towards the mainland


The lighthouse building started in 1787 is deserted, but it is still possible to roam around it


Isle of Lewis

To explore the islands further my next journey was to the far north of Lewis. It felt strange finally being on a normal road again, after I got rather used to the single track roads of Harris. On the drive towards the north (A858) I visited the Callanish Standing stones, a Broch and two fantastic Blackhouse museums which are all worth a visit and a walk around!!


Callanish Standing stones


The Broch


The Blackhouse village at Gearrannan


Inside the Arnol Blackhouse

At the end of the road and furthest most northerly point are the amazing cliffs around the Butt of Lewis. The walk around the cliffs is really enjoyable and awarded with spectacular views.


The cliffs


The lighthouse

5 days later I had to say good bye to the islands of Harris and Lewis and return home. The isles are fantastic and well worth a visit..I certainly will be back

[dooterbang]

Nice to see you taking it easy Maja That looked a fab wee trip. Its another destination I've still to visit, That lighthouse will be on the list too.

Cheers

Paul.

[Alteknacker]

Your pics really seem to capture that far north coastal sea light - I spent nearly a year on the Shetlands many moons ago, and the light (and the fabulous beaches also) was the thing that really struck you.

Glad you had reasonable weather. We experienced the worst summer and the best following spring in living memory on the Shetlands, and when it's driesh day in day out, it's quite soul-destroying!!

[litljortindan]

Pity about the cloud on Clisham but that beautiful coastline more than makes up for a missed view I think. Trying to get the wife to go there.

[Collaciotach]

Superb photos

Shame Clisham was cloudy

[BoyVertiginous]

Trying to get the wife to go there.

Why, what you got planned while she's away?!

[Mountainlove]

Nice to see you taking it easy Maja That looked a fab wee trip. Its another destination I've still to visit, That lighthouse will be on the list too.
Cheers
Paul.

It actually felt like a holiday from hill walking, but there is so much to see on the islands, you will love it when you head over there. Very similar to Assynth in many ways

Your pics really seem to capture that far north coastal sea light - I spent nearly a year on the Shetlands many moons ago, and the light (and the fabulous beaches also) was the thing that really struck you.
Glad you had reasonable weather. We experienced the worst summer and the best following spring in living memory on the Shetlands, and when it's driesh day in day out, it's quite soul-destroying!!

Oh wow the Shetlands- lucky you for being able to spend nearly a year there. Love how everything is kind of slower on the islands. Such a great place to relax. And yes the light and countryside really gets to you.

Trying to get the wife to go there.

Why, what you got planned while she's away?!

Hahaha that made me laugh so much

Superb photos
Shame Clisham was cloudy

I know had been looking forward to amazing views

[ancancha]

The beeches look fabulous, reminded me of the Indian ocean South Africa
All the historical sites look fascinating

[dav2930]

Your reports are always a delight to read ML. Those beaches look superb in your photos. I remember seeing the Harris hills from Trotternish and thinking they looked quite mystical. I've been wanting to go there ever since.

[Mal Grey]

Wow, yet more evidence that I MUST get my act together and get over to the Outer Hebrides soon.

Many thanks for sharing, it looks wonderful.

[malky_c]

Lovely - must spend some more time over there. I quite often go out there for work, but don't get much time to do any sightseeing. I also need to go back up Clisham on a nice day - seems like a common problem

[Silverhill]

Wow, I can’t believe those beaches! What a lovely holiday you had!

[Scotjamie]

excellent report and pics as always Maja
I must get there!

[mountain thyme]

Looks stunning

They have been on my to do list for a while. I need to get over there

[stuart&alison]

Enjoyed your report, photos are smashing.