Hot and bothered on Cul Beag

[petelynn]

This is my last walk report from my recent trip to Scotland.

Having had a perfect day on Ben Mor Coigach followed by a low key but really enjoyable round of Rubha Coigach I decided I needed to do another hill. I didn't fancy the long walk in and steep descent of Suilven (knee worries) and I was based at Reiff and didn't want a long drive. I'd already been up to the easy bit of Stac Pollaidh and wasn't about to tackle the scramble to its summit so it came down to Cul Mor or Cul Beag. As I generally go for the less popular option I decided on Cul Beag. Being the stalking season I took the advice on WH and decided to take the standard route from near Knockan to avoid the need to phone for advice.

Track_Cul beag.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

After a really nice drive from Reiff I got out of the car to put my gaiters on and encountered the problem that would more or less dominate the day - midges. Within a minute I was back in the car putting them on under the steering wheel. Until I returned almost to the car later in the day there was no wind at all and whenever I stopped I was soon bother by the little blighters. I very seldom get to Scotland between June and September so this was the worst I'd experienced them. I know it gets much worse than this but for me it was bad enough. Anyhow I set off and when moving was fine as was the scenery.

Looking to Ben Mor Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir
P9160377 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

South to An Teallach
P9160378 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

The first part of the walk is along a decent track, though a bit boggy at times but, after turning off the Cul Mor track the path virtually disappears. After stepping over a fence a faint path through a wet area is visible but after that only the odd suggestion of a path and a few small cairns. But today the objective was crystal clear and the going reasonable.

Cul Mor and Cul Beag (left)
P9160379 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

As a bit of height was gained along Creag Dhubh the view behind to Ben More Assynt began to improve, albeit with a bit of cloud on top.
P9160380 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Cul Mor was looking really good to the right but I was committed to the Beag now.

Cul Mor
P9160381 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Cul Beag ahead
P9160382 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

At this point Cul Beag looked pretty easy - not too steep and little in the way of crags. But its funny how the weather and how you feel can affect feelings of steepness. As I got closer the slope appeared to get steeper rather than the usual less steep feel. Starting up, the complete lack of wind, the sun beating on my head (it must have been at least 14 deg C!) and the midges if I dared to stop made it a bit of a slog. I could swear I hardly ever stopped for more than a few seconds on the climb but when I got back my GPS said of the five hours I was out I spent one and a half not moving! I must have stopped to take these photos though.

Looking back down to Creag Dhubh
P9160384 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Views of Ben Mor Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir improving
P9160385 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Huffing and puffing I eventually arrived at the subsidiary peak of Meall Dearg with a view of the drop down to the bealach with Lochan an Uaine and the last climb up to Cul Beag beyond.
P9160386 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

On Meall Dearg Suilven started to peep round the end of Cul Mor
P9160387 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

To the south An Teallach and the whole Ben Mor Goigach group were visible
P9160388 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

As I descended the 70 metres to the bealach a group of 6 stags ambled away from the Lochan leaving me with a lovely view of Suiven across the water. Unfortunately I couldn't get high enough to see Suilven reflected in the water; probably would work standing on someones shoulders.
P9160390 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Then it was up the last 80 metres, aided by the sandstone mini terraces providing an easy zig to to the right followed by a steeper off terrace zag to the left until I got to the top. (If that makes any sense)
P9160391 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Quite suddenly I was at the summit and the whole western view, previously hidden, was revealed. Even here, at 769 Metres, there was no wind and as soon as I stopped midges started to arrive. So it was a few pictures a brief survey of the fantastic view and I started to descen.

The view from south to north.
P9160392 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

P9160394 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

P9160399 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

And a Panorama
culbeagpano by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

Stac Pollaidh zoomed
P9160397 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

I managed to find a slight breeze below the summit where I could have a quick bite and drink in peace before starting on down.

The way down to the bealach and Meall Dearg
P9160400 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

I pretty much retraced my route down , seeing a pair of ptarmigan and by the time I got to Creag Dhubh a breeze was blowing between Cul Mor and Cul Beag so it was altogether a more comfortable descent.

The view ahead to Ben More Assynt was now clear and impressive.
P9160401 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr

I'm not likely to be back to Scotland now until next spring but I'll have plenty of memories of a great trip and, of course, the vicarious pleasure of everyone else's walk reports to keep me going through the winter.

[dogplodder]

This is the hill I wanted to climb every day this week but couldn't - so this report makes me very envious (apart from the midge factor which helps!). Your photos are superb.