Walkhighlands

Unlike most sensible people I had decided to collect Tops just as I was completing my Munro round, not the most ideal time to start I'd given little thought of Tops prior to that, although had picked up a number in the course of the Munro round as you do. I'd never considered I'd be able to do the harder Tops, but when our guide took us over the Bhasteir Tooth when finishing off our Skye Munros that opened the doorway to possibility. Over the last year I'd been chipping away on around 120 Tops on weekends when Allison wasn't with me - this had taken me back to some excellent hills and different routes up Munros I'd previously climbed as well as some thrilling moments, especially with the Skye Tops earlier this summer. Over the course of this week in Torridon I'd managed the loose delights of Meall Dearg, the rocky excitement of Sgurr Dubh and now had only 3 Tops to go, all on An Teallach. Fortunately we'd done the scary ones - Lord Berkeley's Seat being one when we traversed An Teallach to Compleat the Munros last year - that left Glas Meall Mor, Glas Meall Liath and Sgurr Coire an Eich to be done. So a route from Dundonnell seemed the appropriate way up.

Coming out of the Fisherfields at teatime on Friday we decided to drive at least part of the way from Kinlochewe. The rain started as we drove off. Wasn't sure where to end up - stopped off in Poolewe for fresh bread and then drove round til we came across Gruinard Campsite - seemed as good as anywhere with good views to the Summer Isles (had the rain not obscured most of them). It was a very wet night and I lay awake at 3am listening to the rain drumming on the tent thinking - even if it's still battering down in the morning, I'm going up An Teallach Fortunately the rain subsided by 4am and by the time we got up at 6 it was relatively dry. Dawn was firing up the sky over Sail Mhor and Beinn Ghoblaich. We packed up, got into the car and drove along the coast road, while the Theme from Local Hero played over the CD - brought a lump to my throat did that . Parked up by the hotel and got ready to set off, excited with what was about to unfold.

We walked up to the Mountain rescue post and dipped down into the start of the walk. I'd heard this way referred to as "The rhodededron route" and had an image of tiers of rhoddy bushes in a Himalaya stylee - not just one smallish bush We followed the eroded path and walked up by the Allt a'Mhuillin, boggy in parts. Up to our left the boulderfields and crags of Glas Meall Mor rose steeply. We continued up to the head of the coire and turned up the easier ground to the start of Glas Meall Mor. A series of undulating tops followed before we made it to the Top. Over to the right the cliffs of Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill rose out of the clag - I was hoping so much for some visibility today, having been up here in clag last time round. We retraced our steps and headed up the steep stony side of Bidein, reaching the Trig point we last saw when we compleated.

P1100911 by Al, on Flickr

Towards Glas Meall Mor
P1100912 by Al, on Flickr

P1100914 by Al, on Flickr

View north
P1100918 by Al, on Flickr

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill
P1100919 by Al, on Flickr

P1100922 by Al, on Flickr


Clag was thick now and the route out to Glas Meall Liath looked a little intimidating. We passed the first pinnacles and then found an easy route along the ridge edge. There was a dramatic change in the rocks as we moved from the red sandstone of the main mountain to the grey quartzite of the Top. A cairn structure marked the Top and it was one to go. We sat and ate lunch a little way from the summit then headed back to Bidein, passing a couple of goats balanced on the scree slopes.

Out to Glas Meall Liath
P1100924 by Al, on Flickr

P1100925 by Al, on Flickr

P1100927 by Al, on Flickr

P1100928 by Al, on Flickr

P1100929 by Al, on Flickr

Red to Grey rocks
P1100930 by Al, on Flickr

P1100931 by Al, on Flickr

P1100933 by Al, on Flickr


Next it was down to the narrow linking ridge between Bidein and Fiona, rising up to the second Munro summit. Clag came and went, releasing views to Beinn Dearg Mor and along the Corrag Bhuidhe pinnacles. To our right the spur of Sgurr Coire an Eich headed off, a fine shapely peak marking the conclusion of my journey. We met a couple of Yorkshiremen on the way down and chatted for a bit, then set off along the last ridge. This allowed splendid views of the two main Munro peaks as well as the Corbett of Sail Mhor. The ridge narrowed to the Top and that was it, the moment of Compleation. Happy times! I had a wee whisky to celebrate then prepared to head back - I had considered continuing on down the ridge NW and coming out at Ardessie, but it was going to be quicker heading back over the way we'd come. We traversed under the summit of Fiona then again under Bidein heading back into Coir' a'Mhuilin.

Ridge to Fiona
P1100942 by Al, on Flickr

P1100943 by Al, on Flickr

Sgurr Fiona
P1100947 by Al, on Flickr

Corrag Bhuidhe pinnacles
P1100949 by Al, on Flickr

The ridge out to Sgurr Coire an Eich
P1100951 by Al, on Flickr

P1100952 by Al, on Flickr

Bidein & Fiona
P1100955 by Al, on Flickr

The Final Top
P1100957 by Al, on Flickr

Yay - 227! (or 529 if you prefer)
P1100959 by Al, on Flickr

P1100961 by Al, on Flickr

P1100960 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn Dearg Mor
P1100967 by Al, on Flickr

P1100968 by Al, on Flickr

Beinn dearg Mor
P1100971 by Al, on Flickr

On returning
P1100973 by Al, on Flickr

P1100974 by Al, on Flickr

P1100976 by Al, on Flickr


Back at the car in 9 hours, I decided against going into the Dundonnell Hotel for a pint in the interests of finding somewhere to pitch whilst there was still daylight - it's a right bummer these autumn evenings. Thought about the Aultguish Hostel, but to our disappointment it was closed when we drove by. Contin campsite? also closed. Hell's teeth. We ended up in Dingwall of all places, tucked into a nice wee campsite just behind the football ground. Not exactly spectacular scenery or wilderness However a great, hot shower made up for some of that and we headed off into Dingwall town centre for a pint or two. Unfortunately, Dingwall Town centre is a somewhat scary place and we ended up going to Tescos for a couple of bottles of beer and some samosas instead and retreating to the safety of the tent

Many congrats Al, enjoyed that, shame the weather wasn't playing ball

Still got An Teallach to visit and am a tad apprehensive, not somewhere I will be visiting on my own

What is going to be your next 'challenge'?

Fife Flyer wrote:Many congrats Al, enjoyed that, shame the weather wasn't playing ball

Still got An Teallach to visit and am a tad apprehensive, not somewhere I will be visiting on my own

What is going to be your next 'challenge'?

I mentioned trig points to him last time I saw him, there's plenty out there which should keep them busy for a while

Fife Flyer wrote:Many congrats Al, enjoyed that, shame the weather wasn't playing ball

Still got An Teallach to visit and am a tad apprehensive, not somewhere I will be visiting on my own

What is going to be your next 'challenge'?

It's the excitement of grahams/donalds - but with the occasional foray back into Munro territory to keep the strenght up be nice to get another round in by the end of next year

What an achievement, well done you! And all that in 1 year and a few months.
Enjoyed reading all your reports of the past few days.

weaselmaster wrote:It's the excitement of grahams/donalds - but with the occasional foray back into Munro territory to keep the strength up be nice to get another round in by the end of next year

It's all down to motivation, I find if I set myself targets it makes me get out to try & achieve
Good luck with the Grahams/Donalds
Is there a better way to see this fantastic country we are lucky enough to live in?

Many congrats on bagging all the tops, an impressive achievement and your walk reports recording your adventures on the hills are always really enjoyable!

So i'm guessing you'll be joining the crazy Marilyn baggers now?! I want to see you both on St. Kilda next, it's about the only hilly bit of Scotland you haven't covered yet!!

Congratulations
Just a pity about the weather but maybe one day you'll get better conditions on these hills - cheers

Chris Mac wrote:Many congrats on bagging all the tops, an impressive achievement and your walk reports recording your adventures on the hills are always really enjoyable!

So i'm guessing you'll be joining the crazy Marilyn baggers now?! I want to see you both on St. Kilda next, it's about the only hilly bit of Scotland you haven't covered yet!!

Now that would be interesting
Bit of an effort to get to St Kilda, mind

Thats a fine acheivement

math fhèin, a laochain!

Many congrats from the meowing one It's a big challenge, the tops, and a fantastic achievement, especially in such a short time.

I still haven't returned to AT since my first visit in 2009. Must do one good day and traverse the pinnacles properly.

As for Grahams/Donalds... "I didn't know Graham bagging could be so &^%$ tiring!" said Kevin reaching the summit of Ben Aslak on Skye (after walking over the two neighbouring Grahams)... Two months later the hill was demoted to Sub 2000 Marylin, he he...

well done al hardcore hill bagger grahams and donalds next enjoy.

BlackPanther wrote:Many congrats from the meowing one It's a big challenge, the tops, and a fantastic achievement, especially in such a short time.

I still haven't returned to AT since my first visit in 2009. Must do one good day and traverse the pinnacles properly.

As for Grahams/Donalds... "I didn't know Graham bagging could be so &^%$ tiring!" said Kevin reaching the summit of Ben Aslak on Skye (after walking over the two neighbouring Grahams)... Two months later the hill was demoted to Sub 2000 Marylin, he he...

Cheers BP - I must say that of the few Grahams I've done so far, most have been really hard work - a combo of steepness, lack of clear routes and waist high bracken. So the challenge won't be underestimated

robertphillips wrote:well done al hardcore hill bagger grahams and donalds next enjoy.

Thanks, Robert - though I'm not quite in your league yet.
I'm looking forward to seeing just where the Grahams and Donalds are located - I know there will be some new parts of the country to explore as well as some old favourites. Gonna be fun

Another milestone reached in your continuing saga of these wonderful hills. Each week I look forward to your posts to see what you and Alison have been up to next. You never disappoint! Your photos and enthusiastic prose are compelling stuff, sort of an Archers of the mountains, a soap opera of the wilderness I myself take terrible photies so rely on the likes of yourself (along with Fife Flyer, Mountainlove, Black Panther, et al) to see the stuff I miss in the clag and remind me of the hills I love so much. Can't wait to hear all about your next adventures and hope to bump into you guys in the wilderness someday