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Once upon a time, a weasel wrote a report of a Walkhighlands Meet weekend in Torridon. He thought he'd saved a draft but awoke the next day to add his pictures in and - to his horror - found the draft had vanished into the ether forever. "Dangnabbit" he wailed. His creative juices extinguished he set about writing a replacement with a heavy heart and aching fingers...
So here we are again on the weekend that almost never was. With a terrible weather forecast in store, the thought of a six hour drive after work to pitch a tent in heavy rain and gale force winds wasn't exactly inviting, even if there was the prospect of some seriously good company. We could get on with our own Corbett Schedule in the rain of Perthshire. But in the end, the lure of WH companionship was irresistible and we decided we'd go after all. Allison was later than usual getting away from work on Friday, which wasn't great, but the roads were fairly quiet and we pulled into Torridon Swampsite just on 9pm. Amazingly, it was dry. We found a slightly less swampy spot to pitch in and set up our abode before strolling up to the Youth Hostel and meeting the delightful folks. A couple of beers and a chatty evening made the decision to come seem the right one. And the weather forecast had improved out of all recognition - the Northwest was now the best forecast in the country - ha! to all the disbelievers who had decided to call off
The Torridon Swampsite
P1110308 by
Al, on Flickr
For our walking pleasures we'd selected the Graham of Beinn na h-Eaglaise, which is tucked in beside Beinn Damh. If we could manage the exertions there was also a Marilyn nearby that we might venture up to the top of - all 433m of it
We decided to head out on our own, being naturally intolerant and antisocial, plus we imagined that most folk would be up Munros or at least Corbetts. We drove to the Torridon Inn and set off along the track from the Inn along Glac na Gainmhich. Clag was lifting on the higher tops and Alligin was sitting pretty over Loch Torridon. We came to the river crossing and hopped over the stones, followed the track for a little then started off up the shoulder of our chosen hill, heading for Creag nan Dearcag in the first instance. The going was easy, picking our way round the occasional crag band and gently gaining height. Ahead to our right the mist coiled out of Coire Roill, Beinn Damh impressive and surprisingly large. we came to a cairn, then another and another. It wasn't entirely clear which was the summit proper so we had a visit to them all. We continued on down the southern shoulder of Eaglaise, having decided it was far too nice a day to cut short our outing - we'd go an do the Marilyn Seana Mheallan too, goddammit!
Up the track, Beinn Damh ahead
P1110311 by
Al, on Flickr
River to cross
P1110312 by
Al, on Flickr
Alligin
P1110313 by
Al, on Flickr
Grahams are easy!!
P1110317 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110318 by
Al, on Flickr
Pano - Beinn Damh, Alligin
P1110320 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110323 by
Al, on Flickr
Towards the first of several cairns
P1110327 by
Al, on Flickr
Damh/Coire Roill
P1110328 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110331 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110332 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110334 by
Al, on Flickr
Down towards the lochs
P1110336 by
Al, on Flickr
Loch na Uillt Bheithe
P1110337 by
Al, on Flickr
The lochans in the coire before Maol Chean-Dearg shone out through the mist as we picked our way down the mountainside, along sandstone pavements and bypassing terraces, so typical of the mountains in this part of the world. We paused for lunch then headed for Loch an Uillt-Bheithe. My plan was to follow the outflow towards Na Botaigeann and then climb up the southern side of Seana Mheallan. Crossing the boggy wet ground towards the Loch we paused for pictures of the surrounding hills, reflected in the water. From here, Eaglaise looked an impressive mountain, riven with gullies and crossed by sandstone bands. Across the loch, Liathach glowed in the autumn sunshine. I wondered if any of our Meet-Mates were going along the pinnacles today.
Maol Chean Dearg
P1110339 by
Al, on Flickr
Pavement
P1110340 by
Al, on Flickr
Eaglaise
P1110342 by
Al, on Flickr
Liathach
P1110343 by
Al, on Flickr
Eaglaise
P1110344 by
Al, on Flickr
Liathach/Eighe
P1110346 by
Al, on Flickr
MCD
P1110348 by
Al, on Flickr
Seana Mheallan (right front of Liathach)
P1110350 by
Al, on Flickr
River/Deer fence
P1110352 by
Al, on Flickr
We dropped down towards a deer fence, which we followed til it crossed the Abhainn Thrail. A convenient log made a walkway over the water. We went up the dun-coloured ground to the east of Coire Buidhe. As we neared to top we could see rain coming in along Loch Torridon, but this moved over to the North of us, drenching Liathach and leaving us to enjoy a sparkling double rainbow which hung in the sky for ages. We headed down to the southwest, making for the western end of the deer fence, where we found a plank bridge to cross the river. Once across we picked up the rudimentary track that runs along the south side of the river before crossing back to the wider track that took us back to the road by the wireless mast. Met Pete and Jonathon on their way back from Beinn Damh as we headed to the Inn to enjoy a pint and collect the car. Alan was ensconsed within, having visited a local bothy during the day. Back at the campsite we gathered our food supplies and enjoyed the luxury of cooking in the Hostel kitchen rather than making tea over the campstove for a change. An pleasant evening of banter and beer followed, with Dougie's quiz (including live guitar "spot the intro" round). We were on the winning team, though not due to yours truly who failed abjectly to answer any of the mountain questions correctly
P1110355 by
Al, on Flickr
Towards Sgurr Dubh
P1110357 by
Al, on Flickr
Summit Seana Mheallan
P1110359 by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn Liath Mhor
P1110362 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110365 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110369 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110370 by
Al, on Flickr
DSC00021 by
Al, on Flickr
DSC00018 by
Al, on Flickr
The forecast for Sunday was not great, with heavy rain and big winds from late morning. We were still going to get something, and had selected another Graham, An Ruadh-Mheallan - a quick up and down of around 6km - not too taxing! I had hoped to be away by 9 but the combination of late night and not much sleep due to a lumpy pillow had conspired against and it was after 10 by the time we left. We called in at the Hostel to say farewell to those that were up and about (and hadn't left yet). Drove along the twisty road towards Diabaig and parked up of the- aptly named for this morning's conditions- Bealach na Gaoithe. I could hardly open my door as the wind forced against it, rocking the car and moving the line of snow-poles in front of us. Graeme's car was already there. We set off up the track, before cutting round to the northwest and making for the Loch of the three islets, thence onwards towards the southern side of our mountain. There's a fair bit of undulation over the boggy ground to be mastered. Beinn Alligin rose to our right, a big lump from this angle, shorn of its dazzling qualities. Behind us the south Torridon hills protruded from the horizon.
An Ruadh Mheallan
P1110373 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110376 by
Al, on Flickr
Loch of the three islets
P1110377 by
Al, on Flickr
South Torridon hills
P1110378 by
Al, on Flickr
Alligin
P1110379 by
Al, on Flickr
Once on the slopes of An Ruadh Mheallan it was a steep but fairly brief ascent - starting at 250m elevation it was never going to be a long slog to get to the summit. We spotted Graeme descending against the horizon over to our left. He was huddled against the wind, which we'd been largely protected from thus far. However, as we gained height the wind started to find us and the last 100m were a wee bit blasty. The rain was on its way and by the time we reached the sandstone pavement that the summit cairn rests on it was a wee bit unpleasant, rain stinging against flesh. No sense in hanging about in these conditions, especially as visibility was steadily diminishing in the gale. We retraced our steps off the hill then headed towards the road when we got near to the loch, descending steeply down the last section before walking back up the road to the car. Having neglected to put my waterproof jacket on, I was well soaked by the time we got to the car, and a change of clothes, followed by a dry lunch taken in the car was in order. Back down the road and home by 6.30.
Summit
P1110383 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110385 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110386 by
Al, on Flickr
P1110388 by
Al, on Flickr
