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Still not quite having the confidence, never mind all the right equipment, to tackle a day of Winter walking in dodgy weather, it seemed I had been perennially disappointed with weekend forecasts so far this year. Having only managed Dumyat and the Cobbler (that day itself a winter skills course) so far, a cracking day on Saturday on Ben Cleuch gave me the buzz again, and I was up early on my way to the borders early next day. It's not often you get two sunny calm days of a weekend in a typical Scottish February, right?
Last year I had been to the Grey Mare's Tail on my way home from a day on Hart Fell, and had resolved to one day return and do the White Coomb circuit above Loch Skeen. Got the car park at 9.15, and was delighted to see no other cars, left about 20 past - cold at first, but warmer in the sunlight. A very well-maintained path leads up steeply alongside the Tail Burn and, higher up, the majestic Grey Mare's Tail. Surely, from every angle, one of the most stunning sights in this part of the world.
start by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Grey Mare's Tail by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010899 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Past the falls, the surprisingly white White Coomb came into view, and the path continued into the vast bowl which the day's walk encompassed. A gentle saunter over undulating ground for a kilometre or 2 ended at the serene banks of a semi-frozen Loch Skeen. Time for a break here to breathe it all in, already the best Sunday of my 2016 so far
First sight of White Coomb by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010904 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010908 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010909 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Back the way about 100 feet or so to turn off the path, feint at first, and reach the fence which is followed all the way up Lochcraig Head, down Talla Nick and round to White Coomb. Rougher ground here, which I can imagine is a nighmare of a bog in Summer (luckily frozen on this day) to reach the bottom of the day's biggest effort - the steep climb up the east flank of Lochcraig Head. Views opening up, sun still shining and not a cloud in the sky, so took my fleece off in anticipation.
fence by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Loch Skeen, Mid Craig and White Coomb by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010917 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Height is gained quickly. I had a assumed when I reached the ridge and the snowline the climb would ease, but not so - only half way there! With some relief I reached the plateau and, a little further on, the summit cairn of Lochcraig Head, the day's first Donald. Great views down over the loch, hard to believe I was down there less than an hour before.
P1010918 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
looking southeast by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010921 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
selfie by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Lochcraig Head summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010929 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Had some food and a good long drink before setting off westwards over icy ground, descending to Talla Nick. Then: a steep, but thankfully short ascent to Firthybrig Head, my breath and the crunch of hard snow under my boots the only discernible sound. The same fence is followed as before, and could imagine this would be a godsend for navigation in difficult conditions.
Mid Craig by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Back to Loch Skeen by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
A left is taken here, still following the fence, over the long, straight and practically flat walk to Firthhope Rig. In the distance, I thought a saw a figure (a mirage?) moving away from me - eventually we caught up on the summit of White Coomb. Behind, views to Broad Law (with it's obvious transmission station on top) and, on the right, the vast lump of Hart Fell and the more graceful Under Saddle Yoke (never understood its name, given it's higher than Saddle Yoke itself?!).
Snow Formation by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
to Firthhope Rig by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Lochcraig Head by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Broad Law zoomed by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
hart fell, saddle yoke and under by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
From here, again turning left, it is a short 10 minute walk with a small ascent to White Coomb itself, detouring right from the fence slightly to reach the summit cairn - the highest point in the Borders. Caught up with my aforementioned peer - an Englishman having his lunch. Joined him and we chatted about our day, and, looking around, how truly lucky we were
to the summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Summit, looking south by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010954 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Time to here from setting off was around 3 hours. After the previous day's toils, the legs were wondering what had hit them, so after a 10 minute stop I said my goodbyes and headed downhill: gentle and bumpy at first, then about a third of the way down a really steep section which, given the ice, required a good bit of care to prevent a sore arse or worse
descent by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Loch Skeen and Lochcraig Head on descent by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
steep section by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1010965 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Eventually, the Tail Burn is reached above the falls. I had not really factored the crossing into the equation, and it proved difficult to do this without getting an unwanted cold bath. After much walking up and down, I found a 'safe' (in no way safe) place to cross, and with a couple of leaps I was gladly on dry ground again. From here, the original path from the beginning is joined again. By now, it was mobbed - lots of couples, families and people with dogs lining the route back down to the car: all happy, smiling and enjoying what is a rare bird - a glorious Scottish Winter's day.
P1010966 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
burn crossing by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
back to moffatdale by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
tail burn valley by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr