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- White walkers!
A reference to one of my favourite books/TV shows in the title for this one! The conditions and terrain seemed like a good location for shooting series 7 perhaps. Possible sightings of white walkers aside, I myself was not so much the 'king o'the north' as a somewhat frightened little English Alpinist. Glaramara is one serious place in cloud and snow. From the upper half of Rosthwaite Fell onwards it was a complete whiteout for the rugged ridge trek to Esk Hawse. I'm not even sure whether I hit Rosthwaite summit, but I'm giving myself this one! Following the compass heading I must surely have crossed it as near as damnit, [edit 25.Sept.2021 No, I didn't, nowhere near!] and I wouldn't have reached Glaramara if I hadn't. It's the same mountain in effect. The 'Tarn at Leaves', an expected early landmark, I somehow missed, but I passed over some rocky outcrop with a sizeable cairn which I'd bet good money was Rosthwaite Cam [edit: it was Combe Head]. Glaramara summit was beyond doubt, with its twin cairns a few metres apart and craggy surroundings half-glimpsed in the frigid haze. Heaven knows what angle I approached it from, and I had a very hazardous climb up a steep snow-ice face to get onto it, barely able to dig my toes in for grip to avoid a 30-foot fall. I should have had crampons on for that, and had an ice axe too. It got a bit more straight-forward en route to Allen Crags, but still some 'tricky' descents. I fell headlong one time, fortunately plunging only into snow. The good old-fashioned compass did it's job magnificently. Reaching the famous shelter at Esk Hause was a major relief (literally a relief for some, judging by some yellow stains in the snow). At that point I met the first humans (definitely not white walkers) since a young couple on the early ascent of Rosthwaite.After a minor hitch finding the path down to Sprinkling Tarn, things certainly did get easier, and dare I say enjoyable. Seathwaite Fell was a picture of winter beauty, stunning views of the larger fells all around and bright blue waters. Well down on the descent, a lapse of concentration sent me turning over on my ankle, very nearly doing damage. I must be careful now, so close to my goal. Only 8 more walks to do to complete the Wainwrights in Winter. Once again, I reached the bus stop (this time Seatoller) with 15 minutes to spare! I should have had loads of time, but the ice and rocks of Glaramara could easily have cost me much more than a missed bus.
- The tiny hamlet of Seatoller, where the bus terminated.
- Ascending onto Rosthwaite Fell.
- Felt very much like the territory 'beyond the wall'.
- Indeed.
- Somewhere on Rosthwaite Fell, or between it and Glaramara.
- I'll never be sure whether I encountered it or not.
- Definitely 'something' of significance, and definitely before Gllaramara. Combe Head?
- On top of Glaramara. Pretty sure.
- Glaramara's other summit, the south one. Must be.
- 'High House Tarn' - a welcome sight, which proved my position en route to Allen Crags.
- Summit of Allen Crags. Definite.
- Nature's minimalism ('path' marker down to Esk Hause).
- Damn, I was pleased to see the shelter at Esk Hause. Other walkers around now.
- Descent from Esk Hause. Emerging back into the world.
- Looking north.
- Sprinkling Tarn: my turn-off for Seathwaite Fell.
- View of Great Gable.
- The true - Hewitt - summit of Seathwaite Fell (??), looking north.
- Great view north from the endmost summit cairn (the Wainwright summit).
- Bird's eye view of Seathwaite and Glaramara from Great End, 11 days ago.
- Any which way down Seathwaite Fell.
- Stockley Bridge.
- 15 minutes to spare - again!
Footnote: 25.Sept.2021. The summit I was hoping in vain was Rosthwaite was in fact Combe head, a subsidiary of Glaramara and a Hewiitt in its own right. This I have only just discovered, after looking into my progress on doing all the English Hewitts. It seems years later I have a nice little bonus from my route-finding troubles of that day! Also, Glaramara's South Top is a Hewitt in its own right, and happily I also summited that on this walk, of that I am certain. If only I had found my intended route, up via Rosthwaite, I would also have bagged 'Dovenest Crag' on the way to Glaramara, but alas this has to remain unticked. Furthermore, I feel far too much uncertainty as to whether I passed over the true (as in Hewitt) summit of Seathwaite Fell, so this must also remain unticked. I should have done more research on this shenanigan. Oh well, I have excuses for a nostalgic revisiting of this walk one day.
