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The trouble with work, at least for most of us, is that you can't tailor your holidays to the weather. A big fat high pressure system might be sitting right over the Scottish Highlands during the two or three weeks leading up to your scheduled week off, but you just have to bide your time and hope it lasts out; and of course, inevitably, it doesn't.
Such was the case, more or less, with the trip to Lochaber Karl and myself had been looking forward to since last October. On the day before we set off, the forecast was telling us that the period of fine, settled weather which had dominated Scotland since the end of February was about to end, rudely shoved out of the way by a loop of the jet stream pushing before it the usual dismal Atlantic fronts. Typical!
As we headed off from Cumbria on Saturday 19th March, the sky was already gloomily overcast, with a hint of drizzle in the air. But things weren't all bad, for by the time we reached the edge of the Highlands the clouds had parted and the sun was shining. Furthermore, the first of the fronts wasn't due to arrive on the west coast until Monday, so we might at least get a decent day on Sunday.
We decided, therefore, that we'd better make Sunday the day for the main objective of our trip - the Ring of Steall. Karl was especially keen on this one and although I'd done it before, I was quite happy to do it again, as it really doesn't get much better than this. No Munro tally additions for me, then, but who cares about that? A walk of such quality is worth far more than numbers on a tick list, and the thought of not being able to do it again until after I'd compleated (whenever that might be) would be too much to bear!
So at 7.35 on Sunday morning we were marching out of the car park at the head of Glen Nevis and into the magnificent gorge with its roaring torrent, huge, water-worn boulders and proper, native woodland. What a place! We could hardly believe the clear, frosty weather, and wondered how long it would be before the clouds came rolling in.
At the head of the gorge the valley opens out onto the amazingly flat meadows, giving a tremendous view of Steall falls with An Gearanach, first Munro of the ring, soaring majestically above it. I took the obligatory photo, but the early morning light produced a rather shadowy result. Later in the day the light is much better for photographing this wonderful scene.
The frost covering the grass was surprisingly thick and it also covered the notorious wire bridge, which made crossing it that bit more interesting!

Once across we were soon confronted by another surprise when we reached the bottom of the falls.
- Steall Falls
The amount of water in the burn made it very difficult to cross. We wandered up and down looking for a suitable crossing point, trying here then there, but concluded that it was too deep to get across with our boots on!

So it was off with boots, trousers rolled up above knees, deep breaths and very cold feet! The water was b****y freezing

It was a while before the feeling came back into our toes.
We avoided the worst of the bogs beyond the falls by following a tortuous path through the mossy boulders at the edge of the wood, then joined the nicely zig-zagging path up the lower slopes of An Gearanach. At one point not very far up, the path has all but collapsed into a gully eroded by flood water - quite a fascinating scene. Above this, height is gained quickly until the path takes a rightward swing, traversing the shallow corrie to arrive at a cairn on the north-western ridge of An Gearanach. Here the views open out across Glen Nevis and Coire a' Mhail.
- Sgurr a' Mhaim from the point at which the path gains the north ridge of An Gearnach
The walk up the ridge becomes increasingly grand and we were pleased to reach the first substantial stretches of snow. It has to be said, though, that it wasn't exactly the 'winter conditions' we'd hoped for; we were just a tad too late for that.
- Binnein Mor and Beag from higher up the ridge
The snow was easy angled at first but steepened on the final summit cone, where it could be avoided on the right to save getting the axes out. However, immersed in a conversation, the content of which now escapes me, we followed some old footprints leading out onto the snow, which were smooth and frozen hard. With our axes still stowed on our packs and our crampons also tucked therein, we suddenly became aware of the danger of our situation, given the very steep drop beneath our feet. So we very gingerly retraced our steps until we could step onto the grass and rocks on our right, which we followed to the summit.
- Approaching the summit of An Gearanach
- Ben Nevis
- Summit of An Gearanach, looking to Binnein Mor
- Stob Coire a' Chairn and Am Bodach from An Gearanach
- Sgurr a' Mhaim and Coire a' Mhail from An Gearanach
- Carn Mor Dearg and Aonach Beag
The narrow ridge to An Garbhanach was clear of snow on its western side and on the narrowest part of its crest, so we weren't going to need our axes or crampons on this section. We were a little disappointed, but the absence of snow and ice undoubtedly saved us time on this fine, airy scramble.
- The ridge from An Gearanach to An Garbhanach and Stob Coire a' Chairn
- Looking back to An Garbhanach and An Gearanach
It was 12.00 midday when we reached the summit of Stob Coire a' Chairn, second Munro of the ring. We were tempted to stop for a lunch break, but decided to press on to Am Bodach.
- Karl on summit of Stob Coire a' Chairn
- Am Bodach from Stob Coire a' Chairn
- South from Stob Coire a' Chairn
- Na Gruagaichean and Binnein Mor from Stob Coire a' Chairn
There was plenty of unavoidable snow on Am Bodach and, being the steepest section of the ring, it was clear we would need our axes and crampons for this. Though strenuous, it was an exhilarating climb up, getting steeper as it got higher.
- Approaching Am Bodach
We stopped at the summit of Am Bodach, third Munro of the ring, for a lunch break. There was little wind so we were able to sit on the summit itself, without need for shelter, enjoying the magnificent views all round. But by now some murky looking clouds had appeared to the north and west.
- Sgurr a' Mhaim from summit of Am Bodach
So then it was on down the easy side of Am Bodach and up the equally easy ridge to Sgurr an Iubhair.
- The ridge to Sgurr an Iubhair
- Across Loch Leven and Aonach Eagach to Bidean nam Bian
- Am Bodach from the col before Sgurr an Iubhair
- The ridge to Sgurr an Iubhair
From Iubhair a straightforward descent leads to the col before the scary-sounding Devil's Ridge. Broad, easy slopes lead up at first then suddenly narrow to a rocky crest. A good path circumvents the most difficult bit on the crest itself - an awkward and very exposed clamber over a smooth, wedged boulder. By now we were in the clag. It was a shame to miss the classic views of the ridge.
- In the clag on Devil's Ridge
- Looking back along Devil's Ridge
After the excitement of Devil's Ridge, the final pull up to Sgurr a' Mhaim, final Munro of the ring, feels a bit of a slog - especially when you can't see very far. Visibility on the summit was so poor that I forgot to take a photo, being more concerned to take a bearing. So down the unremitting north-west ridge we went to reach the Lower Falls.
- Below the clag on north west ridge of Sgurr a' Mhaim, looking down lower Glen Nevis
I was expecting the walk up the glen from the Lower Falls to the terminal car park to be a drag, but even under a darkly overcast sky, the scenery is so full of interest that any sign of tiredness seems to dissolve. At a point along the path opposite the Polldubh crags we spotted some climbers on Storm, a classic rock climb on the Cavalry Crack Buttress - the first people we'd seen all day! It seemed surprising that the rock was dry enough for climbing on. But it soon wouldn't be, for next day the forecasted front came in off the Atlantic - not violently with high winds, but stealthily with fine, soaking rain. The weather may have somewhat dampened the rest of our trip, but at least this had been a day to remember.
