



The alarm went off and I was beginning to wonder if this was a good idea...but I dragged myself out of bed and into the car and off I went. It was raining as I left Glasgow and driving along Loch Lomond the tops were well and truly in the clag.... Not a promising start

Booting up quickly, I finished my tea and set off under the underpass, through the gate and taking the path to the left of the phone mast, I set off up towards the bealach.
The way ahead is clear!

Initially the path was very good and I was wondering if the boggy reports were exaggerated....then I turned a corner and there it was....

Looking back to Bridge of Orchy

Wee lamb friends

As I got closer to the bealach, the path became rockier and steeper and more difficult. I could also feel the wind picking up so stopped to don my hat. Looking back, the peaks were beginning to clear but the clouds looked angry.
Finally reaching the bealach, I could see ahead to Beinn Mhanach and to the right, I could see my route up Dorain. It was very windy here so headed straight off up.
Looking over the bealach - Beinn Heasgarnich dead ahead

Bridge of Orchy and the hills behind still hiding

The path was rocky but clear and although there were patches of snow, there was nothing problematic in any way. Part way up I bumped into a very energetic man running down with a dog. We exchanged only a quick greeting and I continued. Finally reaching the Sassenachs cairn, I could see ahead to the true summit. Glad that visibility was clear, I continued towards it, negotiating a few rocky steps and some slightly icy snow.
Being blown around on summit number 1

Ben Lui, head in the clouds as per usual


Beinn Mhanach (left) Creag Mhor & Beinn Heasgarnich (right)

The views from here were fabulous - you really do feel right on the edge. The hills were becoming clearer too, and now I could see the rest of my walk - Beinn Achaladair and Beinn a'Chreachain were now in view as well. It was incredibly windy but I didn't think it was unsafe so long as I was careful, so I snapped a few pictures and headed off back towards the first summit. At this point my route directed me down the ridge eastwards where there was a clear path for a while.
Heading down the ridge - Beinn a' Chuirn with Beinn Mhanach behind, then on the left Beinn an Dothaidh, Beinn Achaladair and Beinn a' Chreachain. My entire route...it looked a long way

Knowing that I had to drop down and cross the river, I was looking for the earliest possible descent in order to cross the river as high as I could (not very good with river crossings


The steep bit I had just come down - photo doesn't quite do it justice



More snow to ease descent

Although slightly nervy, the river crossings were actually not too bad and I escaped without getting my feet wet, or my bin bags out! I was glad I managed to cross before they converged as I would have had more difficulty there. Knowing that I had a long day ahead of me and not wanting to run out of water, I had a long cool drink from the river before continuing.
Now I had to traverse all the way around to Beinn Mhanach which looked a long way away. Initially the ground was fairly flat and not too boggy, but as I stayed higher and the ground dropped away, the terrain got steeper and walking was uncomfortable as my ankles were tilted sideways.
Beinn a’Chuirn looked impressive ahead of me, but the instructions suggested going round it as the ascent would be easier that way.

As I came around the corner of Beinn Achaladair, I could see the track I was to join but elected to keep my higher ground and join it further up towards the bealach. Eventually I met it at another river crossing and again I enjoyed a long drink.
Coming around the corner and getting a glimpse of Beinn a' Chreachain

I followed the track a short way before it became boggy and grassy. Eventually I got bored of getting wet feet on a “path” and decided to cut straight uphill. I started regretting this as it was totally pathless bog and my legs were feeling pretty tired at this point


Looking ahead to Beinn a' Chreachain and slightly dismayed at the size of the drop before it


Glad to be following something that wasn’t a bog, the going seemed easier now, although there was still a lot of bog, streams and marsh to cut across. Whilst crossing one such section I stupidly put my foot on the most solid thing I could see – a wet fencepost – with the predictable result of face-planting into the bog


Continuing, I finally found myself at the bealach and could see the path to Beinn Mhanach ahead. Glad to be on a path, I made quick work of this and found myself at the top at last – it felt like a long time since Beinn Dorain; after all the exertion so far it was hard to believe that this was only summit number two


In front of Beinn a' Chreachain with the weather threatening to close in

Meall Buidhe in the distance

Unfortunately it started to spot with rain at this point and this, mixed with the wind, made the summit of Beinn Mhanach an extremely unpleasant place to be. A quick couple of photos and it was time to head off. Once off the top it was a little less brutal, and the rain quickly gave up so I stopped to check the map and instructions. Unfortunately I also had to refold my map at this point which was a slightly tricky operation in the conditions...

Beinn Dorain (right) Beinn nam Fuaran (left) and the Gleann Achadh-innis Chailein (try saying that after a few drinks


From the bealach I struck off on a bearing North-west towards the Allt Cailliche….another river requiring crossing….

Initially there was a good bit of snow and this in some ways made the descent a little easier (except for the giant drop I nearly fell over, but enough of that…


Reaching the river I managed to cross without disaster, had another drink and continued. The map and instructions seemed to differ here – one suggested heading up Meall Buidhe to the ridge, the other a straight up assault on Beinn a’ Chreachain. I decided to head diagonally up across Garbh Meall before heading straight up to the summit…the more direct approach

Looking back up Beinn Mhanach, before the off...

...and up to Beinn a' Chreachain, my next target


It wasn’t exactly easy going, but not as bad as I had expected, and just as I was heading to cross the burn before the final ascent, I bumped into the guy I’d first met coming down Beinn Dorain as I was going up – he was on his way to Beinn Mhanach, his 5th and final summit of the day. We had a bit of a natter before going our separate ways.
An excuse for a breather - my route so far

The final pull up Beinn a’ Chreachain was long. It was steep and grassy for the main part before becoming rocky in places. But finally I was there. The views were incredible and it was totally worth the effort. The other good thing was knowing that I was now on the ridge – the going would be easier from now on….

Looking back - foreground left Beinn Mhanach and right Beinn Dorain, behind right the majestic Ben Lui, my nemesis, clear at last

Black Mount hills and Nevis - clear!!!

Nevis, zoomed

Looking East-ish

Camera-in-the-wind issues on summit number 3

Rannoch Moor

It was just after 1pm – lunchtime, so I found shelter behind the cairn and added more clothes before tucking into my egg salad sandwich – never has an egg sandwich tasted so good


My route ahead along the ridge

Nevis and the Mamores again

Coming out of the shelter of the cairn, I was hit by the full force of the wind again – it was still ferocious, so got moving quickly. I made my way over the rocky ground down towards the bealach, eventually picking up the path.
I cut up from the path as it was bypassing Meall Buidhe, and I was just crying out for a bit of extra ascent….


Ahead to Beinn Achaladair

Black Mount, Rannoch Moor and Nevis hills

Another one

Now on the ridge, it was easy to follow along the top of Meall Buidhe, and then on the descent to the slightly sloppy bealach before Beinn Achaladair, which was looking mighty impressive ahead. As I started the descent I could see two people ahead of me – presumably come up from Achallader Farm. The sun was shining and it was warm despite the wind, so I took my time to enjoy it

Beinn Achaladair


Finally across the bealach, I could see the path up the steep rocky prow of Beinn Achaladair. Reaching a snowy patch, I could see the two people I had seen from afar stopped just below. Worried that there was some difficulty, I approached, only to be greeted by a very friendly couple who recognised me from WH. They turned out to be Martin and Denise who were out enjoying the good weather. We had a bit of a blether – always nice to meet fellow Walk Highlanders on the hills – before I became guinea pig on the snow patch; fortunately the snow was soft and there was no need for the winter hardware to come out

After saying cheerio to Martin and Denise (it was lovely to meet you guys!) I continued on my way, conscious that I still had a fair way to go. Once up the steep bit, it was a simple stroll to the summit. After hearing reports of several cairns on this summit, I decided it was safest to visit them all, just to be sure

Summit number 4


Black Mount (left) and Nevis range (right)

Loch Tulla and the Black Mount hills

On my way off the summit, I bumped into several more people, this time up from Cumbria (I think!) for a few days – makes my trip from Glasgow feel like just down the road….


Although Dotty wasn’t far away in distance, the ridge zig-zags all the way around the Coire Daingean (and looking down the crags, you definitely wouldn’t want to take the direct route….)
Dotty ahead - impressive looking mountain



The walk wasn’t difficult and there was a path the whole way to the bealach, so it was a very enjoyable walk. I was soaking in the views and having a wonderful time – part of me sad that I was heading up the final summit (but my legs relieved that it would be over soon

I started up the final ascent on a faint path which soon disappeared (or maybe I lost it, whatever), so I found myself slogging up a steep tussocky grassy slope which was pretty tough on the legs which had already had quite a battering today…

Taking my time, I could see Martin and Denise reach the bealach below, ready for their descent. I had a bit more climbing to do first, so off I went. Seeing a bit of snow above me, I hoped that I was nearly there – fortunately I was, and I crawled over the top and found a cairn.
Looking across to Beinn Dorain - felt like a long time since I was there


I could see the summit cairn a little further along the delightfully curving ridge and headed towards it.

Summit number 5 – the last of a wonderful day - posing in front of Beinn Dorain

I think this is Creag Mhor & Beinn Heasgarnich

Again very windy, I added clothes and enjoyed the views. Looking over to the other end of the ridge and a cairn, I could tell from the map that I was on the summit, but never one to shy away from unnecessary ascent, I decided it looked lonely and that I would pay it a visit

Back along the ridge to the actual summit

North - Black Mount on the left

Black Mount again

Feeling pretty tired, it was time to head down. I decided to head straight down along the top of the crags to the bealach and there was even a path some of the way. As I got lower, it got boggier and warmer and marginally less windy. I could see a large group of people heading up Coire Reidh towards the summit – it was a busy day on these hills

Guardian sheep

Reaching the bealach I was able to see the same views as this morning, but now bathed in sunlight

View from the bealach back to BoO

West from the bealach

Wanting to enjoy the views for longer, but also conscious that I was shattered and had to drive all the way home, I headed down the bealach path, shedding clothes as I went. After the initial steep rocky descent where I slipped and fell on my backside (leaving the remainder of my dignity here) this was an easy walk out and I was able to enjoy the possible beginnings of summer (it’ll snow next week now I've said that

Impressive crags on Dotty

Down to the glen

Back up from the bottom of the path

Reaching the car, I was attacked by some midges – yes midges – so out came the Avon Skin-so-Soft, making me smell a whole load better…



