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For years I thought that a walk like this was beyond someone like me. Though I consider myself to be a reasonably fit walker, seeing others' accounts of this grand day out always seemed a step too far. And although I had taken on big-ish days in the past, I always felt spent afterwards. In the back of my head I'd written a 20-mile-plus trip off on account of I just wasn't up to it.
Like all inspirational adventures, though, this one refused to fade from my mind. And, given that I'm now into my 40s, I seriously questioned how many more years would elapse before I truly was too old to attempt such a massive undertaking. And, so, I posted on Twitter that I was thinking about doing this, and that if anyone else was keen then let me know.
A few people got in touch with me, and one in particular (Robert Wight, Editor of 'The Scots Magazine') seemed keen as mustard. This encouraged me. Robert is a fervent walker, and is no stranger to a decent day on the hill. Similar to me, though, his biggest day thus far had been seven Munros. Mine was six, so we were in a similar place. Both of us knew that this would be a very stern test. So, we set a date for the 3rd of June, and hoped for good weather. We were not to be disappointed...
The route. This is a rough, computer-drawn account. It is a few miles short of the
actual total of 23.7 miles.
I camped in Glen Nevis the night before, not being too keen on a 3.30am alarm call from my bed in Stirling. I questioned the wisdom of this when pitching the tent in very calm, overcast conditions. The midges were utterly incredible. Biblical in quantity, they swarmed around me and made the whole affair a complete nightmare. But, eventually, I settled down for the evening and woke at 5.00am.
Robert arrived not long after 5.30am and picked me up from the first car park. We travelled in his car to the head of the Glen Nevis road and headed away at 6am. Speed wasn't going to be a concern for us, and we allowed lots of time so we could savour the day. The main thing was getting round, and if that meant stopping for long periods then so be it. The weather was as good as you could have hoped for.
Steall waterfall looking mighty fine.
The walking conditions for the first few miles were exceptional. Weeks of essentially dry, sunny weather meant that the ordinarily boggy ground was almost tinder dry. Not only did this make the going easier, it meant the expenditure of fewer calories than normal. This may seem like a daft and overly fastidious thing to think about, but over the course of a long day these small things all add up to make a big difference.
The first Munro, Binnein Beag, has no path from the Glen Nevis side. It is basically a very steep, upwards slog. The angle for the last 1000ft is a close to 45 degrees as makes no odds. It was to be one of the hardest climbs of the day.
Robert clambers up the steep slope of Binnein Beag.
The reward for our slog. The summit of Binnein Beag looking across to Binnein Mor (Munro 3).
The next few miles for me were some of the best of the day. Although the descent from Binnein Beag (you lose a LOT of height) was a bind, the walk up the now good path to the foot of Sgurr Eilde Mor was delightful in the cool calm of the day.
By now we had our walking heads on, and feeling in good form we parked our rucksacks at the loch below Sgurr Eilde Mor and promptly (20 mins to be exact) went up Munro 2. We were feeling good! After taking a few snaps we headed back whence we came. The scree slope meant that we were down at the rucksacks once again a mere 9 minutes after leaving the summit. Good going!
The summit of Sgurr Elide Mor, looking towards the Glen Coe hills.
To Binnein Mor from here involved a decent walk, but it was made immeasurably easier by the
fantastic stalkers' path that winds up deftly to the ridge. From there it's a nice breezy walk to the summit of Munro 3.
The view from Binnein Mor to Binnein Beag and Sgurr Eilde Mor.
Having now done three Munros and covered almost 10 miles, this would be considered a good day's walking ordinarily. I'd have been looking forward to getting off the hill and having dinner. However, when your brain is prepared psychologically for something much bigger it's amazing how it affects you. At this point I could see the rest of the range opening up seemingly endlessly in front of me, and instead of feeling a dread I felt exhilarated.
What lay ahead...
Onward.
The walk from Binnein Mor to Na Gruagaichean was very straightforward, and we were there in 30 mins or so.
From the summit of Na Gruagaichean looking towards Loch Leven.
Four Munros down, six to go. We knew psychologically that the next section was going to be tough. Not only do you lose a lot of height, but the walk up to An Gearanach is hard
and long.
An Gearanach (on the right of the twin peaks) from the bealach (783m) below Na Gruagaichean.
Eventually we made the summit ridge and, again, took off the rucksacks at
Bealach a Chadha Riabhach, knowing we'd be back for them soon enough. The walk out to An Gearanach was, for me, the trickiest part of the day technically. I'm no lover of heights, and this ridge has a few airy sections. Before too long, though, we were on the summit, and retraced our steps to the rucksacks, where we had a good intake of food and water.
An Gearanach from near the summit of Stob Choire a' Chairn.
The next Munro, Stob Choire a' Chairn, was straightfoward, and hardly seemed worthy of the status. However, we were happy to summit number six of the day.
Munro seven, Am Bodach, didn't look too testy either. However, looks can be deceptive! Although the approach was good and steady, the final 600 ft or so is horribly steep. Far better going up it than down, I should imagine. We passed five walkers coming the other way who did not look as though they were enjoying the experience.
Am Bodach from Stob Choire a' Chairn.
From the summit of Am Bodach, looking back whence we came.
Seven down, three to go! We knew now that we were getting there, and that any thoughts that we might not complete the round had vanished. Not that we even discussed this, of course, as neither of us would even have admitted it came into our heads. The Scots' word 'thrawn' comes to mind.
The next and eighth Munro, Sgurr a' Mhaim, would necessitate another 'there and back' visit along the so-called 'Devil's Ridge'. Neither of us had done this before, so we were a little wary. In the end it was a piece of cake. Sure, it might be scary in a Force 10, but actually the walk out and back was a decent and pleasant one, albeit the final haul up to Sgurr a' Mhaim was tiring.
Robert walks along the ridge towards Sgurr a' Mhaim, with the Devil's Ridge in the background.
From the summit of Sgurr a' Mhaim towards Ben Nevis. Glorious.
Panorama of our trek from the summit of Sgurr a' Mhaim.
Eight down, two to go...
We sped back down to pick up our rucksacks below the bealach near the demoted Munro Sgurr an Iubhair. By now we had no water left, but knew that we could replenish our bottles at the idyllic
Lochan Coire nam Miseach. Also, rather than using the stalkers' zig-zagging path, we elected to glissade down the bone-dry grass, thereby saving more time and calories!
Lochan Coire nam Misheach. A true oasis in an otherwise barren place.
The water from the stream tasted like nectar to our thirsty bodies. We filled up our bottles and made for the penultimate Munro, Stob Ban. This fabulously photogenic mountain has always attracted me, and seeing it in the flesh at close quarters was a joy.
The approach to Stob Ban.
The joy was short-lived, however, as this turned out to be the hardest part of the day. By now, eight Munros and 18 miles in, our bodies were starting to grumble. The legs were getting tired, and asking them to haul us up another 800-odd feet was getting mixed responses. This is where having two like-minded people is invaluable. Neither of us wanted to show the other we were struggling, and we doggedly rose to the summit. When there we both admitted that had been the toughest climb yet.
Looking back from the summit of Stob Ban.
Nine down, one to go.
Mullach nan Coirean from the summit of Stob Ban.
In ordinary circumstances this would have been an easy stroll. However, after 20 miles and 9300 ft of ascent it wasn't so easy. By this point, though, we were coasting. Perhaps even in autopilot. The work was done, and all that remained was the final few km to the summit.
Stob Ban on the right, from the ridge to Mullach nan Coirean.
Made it! The last and tenth Munro of the day.
Reaching the top was a surreal experience. On reflection it was almost anti-climcatic. The whole day's exertions culminated at this point, and although I was relieved I think, too, I was a little sad that it was now over. I'm not sure why that was, but when you invest so much energy in a walk like this it can do funny things to your mind. Perhaps it was because days like this might not come again in the future. Who can tell?
Anyway, from the summit we made our way down speedily to the car in less than an hour. Never have I been so glad to see it!
My thanks must go to Robert, whose constant positivity and general fitness was a source of inspiration on the way round. Had he not come along I doubt I'd have done this myself. This walk is best shared with others, I think, and I am sure this day will live long in his memory, as it will surely do in mine.
