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We set off intending to go to Knoydart but a suspect forecast for Sunday and slow traffic caused a rethink en route. Plan B was a traverse of the Mamores. This was something I had long wanted to do but increasing decrepitude made it unrealistic in a day particularly as i have been struggling with my right knee all year. However a multi day camping trip seemed feasible and had the advantage of a complete immersion in the hills.
We therefore rolled into Kinlochleven after 1pm and hurriedly packed our bags and wolfed down some food. With heavy packs, progress was slow but we followed good paths up through the woods and then over the open moor to the bealach under Sgurr Eilde Mor.
[img
IMG_3706 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
The woods above Kinlochleven[img
IMG_3707 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking south over Loch Eilde Mor[img
IMG_3711 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Sgurr Eilde MorWe dumped our sacks with some relief and floated up Sgurr Eilde Mor. There was some loose scree but it was generally reasonable going with no one else in sight. The views were wonderful and extensive. We could also see our campsite next to Binnein Beag.
[img
IMG_3717 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Going up SEM looking towards Binnein Mor[img
IMG_3713 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
SEM summit
Back at the sacks we were faced with a dispiriting descent and ascent but the stalkers path made light of it and we soon reached the lochan below Binnein Beag where we pitched camp an had a meal. One couscous and chilli con carne later we set off up Binnein Beag for even better views and back to the tent by 8pm.
[img
IMG_3722 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Summit of Binnein Beag looking to the Grey Corries[img
IMG_3723 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Binnein Mor from Binnein BeagIt was the camping which was the making of the trip because it felt a complete experience to just exist for a time amidst the hills totally away from civilisation. We took all our water from the burns and slept in the bosom of the hills. The only sounds were water and the call of a sandpiper and it was very peaceful. There were lots of insects but no midges.
[img
IMG_3727 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Lochan camp looking to Binnein MorThe next morning was sunny and we struck camp and headed up the north ridge of Binnein Mor. It was a bit unpleasant getting on the ridge but the gentler slopes above were like a stairway to heaven; it was still early and we had the summit to ourselves.
[img
IMG_3733 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Binnein Mor -stairway to heaven[img
IMG_3734 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking back to Binnein Beag and the campsite[img
IMG_3738 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Binnein Mor summitThe compelling ridge continued to Na Gruagaichien. Ralph Storer builds up the difficulty of the gap between the two tops but it was straightforward and we struggled to see what the fuss was about.
[img
IMG_3741 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking west along the ridge[img
IMG_3743 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Approaching Na GruagaichenThis was followed by quite a big loss of height. The plan was to take a stalkers path to below An Garbhanach and pick up water there. Somehow we missed it and traversed too low on some steep ground. Margaret took a bit of a slide on steep grass which she was most unhappy about. We were glad to reach the water as we were carrying as little as possible to save weight.
Now for the Ring of Steall. Again we left the bags to go to An Ggearanach and back - a good feature of this walk was that we did the best bits twice. Unladen the scramble was straightforward.
[img
IMG_3755 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
An GearanachBack at the bags we cooked up a pasta bolognaise and set off up Stob Coire a Chairn. It was steep but short and after a quick breather we set off down the ridge to Am Bodach. We hadn't been looking forward to this climb but a bit of Kendal mint cake got us up.
[img
IMG_3756 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Sgurr a Mhaim from Stob Coire a Chairn[img
IMG_3757 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking west to Sgurr an IUbhair and Stob BanAs always the views were stunning but the sky looked a bit threatening so we gave up our promised rest and pushed on for Sgorr an Iubhair. It was a little wet by the time we got there but the rocks were warm and dried themselves. We dropped down to to bealach before the Devil's ridge and left our bags. Then a quick and entertaining jaunt to Sgurr a Mhaim. This is one big hill but a lot easier when you don't have to climb out of/descend into Glen Nevis.
[img
IMG_3761 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
The Devil's Ridge[img
IMG_3765 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Sgurr a Mhaim summit[img
IMG_3767 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Back along the Devil's Ridge -the campsite lochan is just below the bealachBack at the bags again we had an easy descent on a very good path to lochan coire nan miseach and camp. The ground by the lochan was not flat but there was a good pitch 50 m below by the burn. We were tired and fed and in bed by 7pm although we got up briefly later to enjoy the evening light. We slept well.
[img
IMG_3771 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Lochan Coire nam Miseach[img
IMG_3773 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Camp 2 below Stob BanNext morning the sky was brilliant blue again. We struck camp early although we were in deep shade and could not dry the tent' which made it heavier.We were up on stob Ban by 9am with the last big climb behind us. After some debate we left our packs at pt 846 and went unburdened to Mullach nan Coirean and back. Clouds were coming and going which made it wonderfully atmospheric but we were in the sun all the time.
[img
IMG_3774 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Stob Ban[img
IMG_3779 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Ben Nevis from the tent[img
IMG_3786 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Climbing Stob Ban looking south to Bidean[img
IMG_3783 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Ben Nevis fromStob Ban[img
IMG_3789 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Mullach nan Coirean and the end of the ridge[img
IMG_3794 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking back east along the ridge[img
IMG_3798 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Stob Ban north ridge[img
IMG_3800 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Descending Stob Ban to Mullach nan Coirean[img
IMG_3807 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Beinn a Beithir[img
IMG_3810 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking east to Sgurr a Mhaim[img
IMG_3811 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Looking back east along the ridge[img
IMG_3812 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Mullach nan Coirean summitBack at the bags eventually, we headed downhill without massive difficulty (but with dissension in the ranks as to the best line) to the ruined croft on the West Highland Way. It was then a long, hot and footsore slog back to Kinlochleven. We were both struck by how our senses had been sharpened by our time in the hills; colours seemed brighter and our senses of smell and taste were enhanced. We were tired when we got back to the car but also rejuvenated.
[img
IMG_3820 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
Tigh na sleubhaich[img
IMG_3821 by
Trevor Price, on Flickr[/img]
The long and lonely road