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Scotland had been the place to be for any enthusiastic mountain walker/scrambler for at least five weeks prior to our visit, watching the weather forecast for our week the usual pattern started to evolve ie a high pressure system that's been sitting over or to the west of Scotland was being replaced by lows coming in from the Atlantic and the dry settled conditions were going to be replaced by frequent showers and wind "ho hum" and "o bug..."!
Saturday 11th June arrived, weather not brilliant at home but fingers crossed, we set off north and around the section of the M6 by the Lakes it started to rain and it carried on all the way up to Crianlarich so it looked like the forecast was going to be right.
Skye was our destination, Paddy was booked so we could have a go at the Munros, all we wanted was the weather to behave.
Paddy had instructed us to phone him sometime before 6.00pm Saturday evening to tell us when and where to meet on the Sunday morning which is what we did. Paddy was quite confident the forecast was going to be favourable so the first day was on and the meeting place was set for the Glenbrittle Beach car park at 9.0am.
This was good for us as our cottage was Cuillin Lodge, Glenbrittle, only a 15 minute walk from the beach. So that was day one arranged and this is how the experience unfolded, I apologise for a rather sketchy/brief account of our time but there's a lot to remember and my mind was otherwise occupied to make it a detailed description so please forgive.
Day one:- 12.6.16
Sgurr nan Eag.
Sgurr Dubh Mor.
Sgurr Alasdair.
1350m ascent.
14.5km.
10.5 hours.
Sunday dawned and the apprehension was at full tilt, we walked to the car park trying not to think too much about what lay ahead, Denise and I are not scramblers and at the Skye level we did wonder how we'd get on, to be honest, at this stage I was pretty nervous.
Paddy arrived soon after us recognisable by his white VW camper, already there was another couple who were part of our group, Gordon and Jean and then there was Russell the 5th member of our little party.
After the introductions and the dolling out of helmets, harnesses and a rope, the burden of which was to be shared by the blokes, we were off.
The mountains today were the three southern munros on the ridge, Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and Sgurr Alasdair in that order. The initial part of the walk in was over easy ground on an easy gradient. We were heading for Coir a' Ghrunnda and Lochan Coir a' Ghrunnda and our first break of the day.
Rhum away in the distance
A hint of things to come.
Cloud over Sgurr nan Eag.
At the lochan we stopped for a rest and something to eat, the weather was really quite nice, a bit of cloud drifting in and out obscuring the tops but it was warm with sunny intervals, much better than forecast, Paddy was really suited it was like this for our first day out,
Once at the Lochan we had our first glimses of the terrain.
A rather candid shot, food just before we donned the helmets.
Looking back from the Lochan.
We all sat and chatted and got to know each other then we had a mustering from Paddy to put on the helmets and it was off to the first munro Sgurr nan Eag.
Now the fun begins.
Getting interesting.
Sgurr Alasdair.
Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda.
We walked around under cliffs to an even flat spot below the ridge, Paddy said we could ditch the rucksacks as we wouldn't need them the short distance to the summit and it'd help not to have them hinder us, we climbed up fairly easy bands of rock and eventually gained the ridge a short way from the first summit of the day/week, being aware of the exposure made for an exhilarating time, I'm never that comfortable with exposure so the concentration levels were heightened to say the least, arriving at the summit was a relief if a bit short lived as we had to retrace it all to get to the rucksacks.
Our first summit Sgurr nan Eag. From L to R, Russell, Denise, Jean, Gorge and Paddy.
Sgurr nan Eag.
Views from the summit,
On the way back the little awkward bits seemed easier,
Russell on an awkward bit.
Views.
Mr casual, Paddy looking on.
A taste of exposure.
we soon arrived at the rucksacks.
Sgurr Dubh Mor was next out on a big spur away from the ridge itself. There were a few more scrambly bits probably more exposed than Sgurr nan Eag but by this time we were all beginning to relax and take it all in and we didn't have the bags with us again which makes it much less of hassle. We arrived at the summit at 14.50 by now we'd got to know each other a wee bit better and the jokes started to lift the nerves.
Denise and Paddy on Sgurr Dubh Mor.
Denise.
It was back to the bags and the start of the climb up Sgurr Alasdair.
This was a bit interesting in parts certainly steeper than the other two and we used the rope for the first time to aid our ascent up a narrow chimney then onto a ledge above, Paddy put us all on the rope because it was wet and was used as a precautionary measure.
The little chimney.
We all scurried up no bother and once off the rope we carried on up, over a tricky bulgy section where Paddy helped any who wanted it by hauling them up on a sling to make a big step up easier.
A helping hand on the way up to Alasdair.
Phew!
We were on the summit at 16.55 happy that we'd got the last one of the day under our belts now all we had to do was get down via the Great Stone Shoot.
Happy on the summit of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest on Skye.
This was tiring and awkward due to the nature of the scree, being ever aware that this is when accidents could happen.
Great Stone Shoot, steep and tricky.
A long way down.
Looking up, Gorge nearest, Russell hangin' on.
First sight of the In Pinn.
Zoomed.
Zoomed a little more.
Moody In Pinn.
It was slow and laborious work making the descent time longer, once on the path the pace got quicker we arrived back at the car park at 19.45 a long day, we were tired but happy we'd got the first day over, Paddy told us to phone him a bit later to arrange a time for our next meeting once he'd seen the forecast, this was done, the weather was not to be as good so day two was set to do the middle three munros on the ridge meeting in the morning at 09.00 by the Glenbrittle Mountain rescue post.
Day two:- 13.6.16
Sgurr na Banachdaich.
Sgurr Ghreadaidh.
Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.
1130m ascent.
10km.
7.5 hrs.
We met Paddy as arranged, Jean and Gordon were already there when we arrived but no sign of Russell, we waited a while still no sign, Paddy was concerned so he went looking for him to make sure he was o.k knowing he was in Carbost that's where he headed, by 10.00 he was back reporting that he was no where to be found so decided to set off without him Paddy was still concerned but there's only so much a man can do, to this day we don't know what happened there, maybe he had to get home for some reason, shame, because he was really good company, a real joker.
Off by 10.05 the day was overcast and there was damp in the air.
The first mountain of the day was Sgurr na Banachdaich and it was devilishly steep to get there up loose scree the higher we got, its an easy one to get to but hard work. About 700m we entered the cloud and by the time Paddy told us we were leaving the rucksacks again it had started to rain and became quite miserable, by the time we reached the summit it was well and truly chucking it down. We didn't hang about I took a couple of photos and got the camera wet, the last time I did that I killed a camera, not wanting a repeat performance the camera went into the rucksack when we got back to them and didn't come out again until the next summit so there's a distinct lack of piccy's for this day I'm afraid.
Denise on Sgurr na Banachdaich.
Off we went to the second munro Sgurr Ghreadaidh, all around us was thick clag so not much in the way of a view, now, from what I remember about the way over, it was very very narrow, good job there was no wind otherwise it might have been the wrong side of tricky, we couldn't see 'owt so the sense of exposure was subdued, from what I could gather from Paddy it's a bit mind boggling.
Tricky bit on the way to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.
We were all a bit wary so progress was slow. We reached the south top, in the mist I thought this was the summit until Paddy casually said "we're not quite there yet, still a bit to go" When we did arrive at the summit Paddy suggested a lunch stop so that's what we did, mentally we were a bit fried so there wasn't much in the way of banter at first but when we started to relax we managed to take the p..s out of each others expressions, that lifted spirits.
On the summit.
Pensive just before lunch.
Looking down from the lunch spot, just wish we could see a bit more.
Default views.
After lunch it was off to Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.
Again this was a bit slippy, on slabby rocks it felt a bit unnerving especially whilst being aware of the drop on both sides. We arrived at the gap, Eag Dubh,
Eag Dubh.
Paddy told us climbers can mistake this for An Dorus in bad visibility and can get a bit of a surprise when they come across An Dorus proper.
We arrived at An Dorus and were given the rope to aid the climb down. In the gap there's the remains of a pyroclastic Flow from the last eruption of the volcano which forms the Cuillins, I found the structure quite interesting.
From An Dorus its a scrabbly climb onto the summit. Breathing a sigh of relief we were happy to be there its a shame it was clagged out but we'd made it, now all we had to do was get down safely.
Denise on Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.
Paddy and Jean on the summit.
I get to these summits as well.
Paddy led us off the summit on a path which led under the crags towards the gully leading up to An Dorus, once there it was a loose descent into Coire An Dorus heading for the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh,
And, guess what? It starts to clear.
We then followed this down to the Youth Hostel. After a day like this all care was needed to concentrate on foot placings but we all got down with only a couple of scuffed bums.
So ended another great day, no views which was a pity, or was it for the better, Paddy did say how exposed it was so maybe it was, I don't know so we'll have to go back.
Day Three:- 14.6.16.
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
Inaccessible Pinnacle.
1300m ascent.
9.5km.
8.5 hrs.
It's along time since we booked Paddy and our cottage, today was the day the whole experience was centered around, if we could get this then all the waiting and apprehension would be worth it.
Tuesday dawned and what did we have, beautiful blue sky, warm and no wind? Yes we did!!! how on earth did that happen?
We arranged to meet Paddy, Gordon and Jean by the Memorial hut, Glenbrittle @ 09.00.
Gordon and I had a rope each to carry as well as the harnesses and helmets
the girls had their harnesses and helmets Paddy had all the gear.
Off we went initially up the good path heading to Coire Lagan. It was warm, especially with the extra weight not that we were complaining. We had some lovely views out to sea, Rhum, Soay, Loch Brittle looked blue and the stark greyness of the mountains was spectacular against the blue sky.
Near Coire Lagan.
We walked above Loch Coire Lagan heading for the scree slopes below the cliffs of Sgurr Dearg. This was dangerous territory due to the erosion going on, there was evidence of rockfalls so Paddy suggested we got close into the cliffs in case of any debris falling.
In Coire Lagan.
Just below An Stac near Bealach Choire Lagan we stowed the rucksacks as we wouldn't need them for Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, we donned helmets and harnesses and were off over loose scree to start the climb up S,M,C. Looking at it from this point I thought we might need a rope, as we got closer tho' you could make out the ascent route and to be honest once up there it was brilliant scrambling all the way to the summit, the weather made it a great experience and the four of us followed Paddy's instructions and we found it hugely enjoyable.
First view of later enjoyment.
Coire Lagan from higher up.
On the summit we got our first real views of the ridge and surrounding mountains something I've wanted ever since my one and only other visit to the Cuillins in 1978, we were clagged out then so this was a real treat.
Summit smiles on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
Views from the summit, In Pinn.
Sgurr na Banachdich, Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh, Sgurr a' Mhadaidh.
Bruach na Frithe, Am Basteir, Sgurr nan Gillean.
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Sgurr Alasdair and Paddy
Choire Lagan.
We left the summit the way we'd come, back down to the rucksacs, this was it, the Inn Pinn was next.
Paddy told us that its more than likly going to be some time before we could do the Inn Pinn with the weather as good as it is so be prepared for a long wait.
We saw quite a few people milling about, on the slabs below the Pinn there had been quite a rockfall which Paddy said had happened over the last twelve months, erosion in action to put it in his words.
At the Pinnacle we saw a group of three guys just about to climb but no one else, Paddy said that we'd be next, it all happened so quickly, there we were, waiting to go next with no time to dwell, wow!
Once Paddy had prepared the ropes and we were all clipped in he went ahead up to the first belay, waited five minutes for the guys to continuue then set our belay up, five minutes later it was us. The girls went up first, because they wanted to, well Gordon and I volunteered them, Jean first then Denise, towing the lads rope up as she went.
It looked pretty straight forward and both the girls scurried up at an admirable pace.
They clipped into the sling Paddy had set up then it was our turn, I was No 3, here we go, brilliant, just brilliant, good hand holds and foot holds, I fair shot up dragging poor Gordon up with me. Arriving at the belay I was clipped in followed shortly by Gordon.
Paddy then set off to the summit, the girls went next, then us. This second pitch was easy, no problems, soon we were there at the summit, the Inaccessible Pinnacle, what a buzz, nearly 40 years waiting to do this and here I/we were, I nearly stood up and did a jig.
On the summit of the In Pinn.
Gorge, me Denise and Jean
From the summit Paddy would lower us off, this just added to the experience, no work involved, we all found this easy with Paddys instructions and relaxed manner, Gordon first so he could take photos then me so I could get a few shots of Denise, I never thought we'd do this sort of thing together but Denise took to this experience and enjoyed every moment.
Jean on the way down.
Touchdown.
Denise's turn.
We were all down pretty quickly then had a relaxed late lunch taking in the views.
Lunchtime views.
Now all we had to to was go down.
We set off down the little ridge heading west from Sgurr Dearg,
Thata' way.
This took us down to the outward path around NG423213 then it was a bit of a march back to the Memorial Hut.
A great day out, I'll never forget this day, fantastic company, brilliant guide.
Day Four:- 16.6.16
Bruach na Frithe.
Am Bastier.
970m ascent.
12km.
7.5hrs.
We had Wednesday off for two reasons, the weather was nasty and we'd all done Blabeinn so it was agreed to have a rest day.
Thursday dawned to wind and rain, the three northern Munros were on the cards to-day but that was weather dependant.
The meeting time was 09.00 as usual, Sligachan mountain rescue post was the place, it was the first time I'd used the car all week.
We were all a bit apprehensive about this, Bruach na Frithe was a definate yes, Am Bastier was ok if the wind and rain was not too bad up there but Sgurr nan Gillean was out unless it all changed for the better.
We set off walking, heading for Choire a' Bastier. The path was excellent and at a split we headed for Bhastier Gorge.
Bruach na Frithe was the first one to-day, at least we'd be certain of one munro. The climb up was fairly steady, at around 350m we walked into the cloud and the rain got heavier. Heading towards Bealach nan Lice Am Bastier was above us but we saw nothing of it. As we climbed the scree below Am Bastier the rain started to lessen, near and just below Bealach nan Lice Paddy told us to shed the rucksacs as we wouldn't need them for this one. After a quick nibble we set off for the summit. We were all expecting this to be a trudge but we were soon at the trig point, no views at all which was a pity because I'd been told most of the ridge and summits could be seen from the summit of Bruach na Frithe.
A single photo showed we'd been there, my camera doesn't do rain and refuses to venture out on days like today so not many photo's, I'll have to invest in one of those waterproof cameras.
Denise and Jean, summit of Bruach na Frithe.
Paddy.
and Gorge.
Now it was back to the bags and decision time, do we go onto the next two, Paddy suggested we would manage Am Bastier without too many problems but the wind would be a factor so we should all take our time and be careful.
So off we went, the thing that was playing on our minds was the bad step, not knowing what to expect was making me a bit nervy, the approach was over slabby rocks with the feeling of not much around us, thank god for the clag, Paddy told us it was a bit airy.
We reached the bad step and Paddy set up a belay to use the rope as a lowering device, we all got down with relative ease and enjoyed it.
The bad step, visibility not good.
Denise on her way down.
Gorge on his way down.
From the bottom of the bad step its not far to the summit, we were soon there, I just wish we could see the views, ah well at least we were there.
On the summit of Am Basteir.
We didn't stay there for long, we retraced our way back to the bad step, the rain had just about stopped so the climb up the step was not as bad as we thought it might be and once up we soon arrived back at the rucksacs.
Here, Paddy decided the technicality of the ridge to Sgurr nan Gillean was too risky with the wind and dampness of the conditions and it was suggested we should leave Sgurr nan Gillean for a better day, we wern't arguing, by this time we'd had enough.
So it was back down to Sligachan, tired, we took it steady, we were elated, what a week, all but one of the intended and that was down to the conditions, the weather was good, we couldn't complain, people had only managed half of our tally so, for the first attempt, managing to do ten of the eleven munro's on the ridge, we were so, so lucky.
Anybody reading this who fancies a go at the Skye Munros and are not blessed with the nerve involved to scramble at this sort of level, then hire a guide, their expertise is at the highest level, it'll be an experience of a lifetime, go for it.
Gordon and Jean were great company, we couldn't have asked for better, their friendship and encouragment was next to none, we are planning to meet up again at some point in the future, They live in Port Glasgow so have the advantage as far as time and distance is concerned so hopefully short notice won't be too much of an issue.
Paddy was absolutly brilliant, his professionalism and calmness put us all at ease, he's patient and is there at all times to help with any doubt you may have for foot holds and hand holds, he points out things that have changed in the mountains, its probably no exaggeration to say he knows the Cuillins better than the back of his hand.
So, it's with thanks to Paddy, Gordon and Jean for making this an experience to remember and to Denise for being with me all the way, I'm lucky to have a wife with the same interest, doing things together is what it's all about.
Thanks guys.
